For those of you who have done the demolition job of removing the old ports in order to replace them, do you have any tips for the removal process? I was planning on taking out the bolts and going from there. I'm not really sure what to expect in terms of sealant. Does anybody know what they sealed the windows with at Hunter, and what's the best way to undo the seal? I take it a crowbar and a sawzall are not the proper tools. Thanks Also, if I can get them out intact, people are welcome to them. Josh
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Hint......
Hi Josh....... Glad to hear you're getting to the installation. One thing I found helpful in removing the trim ring is a PVC tubing cutter you can get in the plumbing department at Home Depot. It is just a length of about 1/32"-diameter cable with a hand loop at both ends. It will slip between the trim ring and the cabin top, cutting the softer caulk and leaving the gelcoat alone. You're liable to do far less damage to the glass this way. Don't forget to let me know if you hit a snag. Dave Simpson AboardDuet@catalinas.net
Hi Josh....... Glad to hear you're getting to the installation. One thing I found helpful in removing the trim ring is a PVC tubing cutter you can get in the plumbing department at Home Depot. It is just a length of about 1/32"-diameter cable with a hand loop at both ends. It will slip between the trim ring and the cabin top, cutting the softer caulk and leaving the gelcoat alone. You're liable to do far less damage to the glass this way. Don't forget to let me know if you hit a snag. Dave Simpson AboardDuet@catalinas.net
Screws, not bolts.
Hi Josh, If you read Terry's article you know there are screws, not bolts. Like his mine did not leak either, probably due to the silicone sealer which was still pliable after 25 years. I took the outside trim ring off in pieces, could not save a single one. Maybe with Dave's tool I could have with enough patience. But I really didn't care. And since I was not painting the cabin trunk I did not have to be too careful. To remove the portlight I dug out silicone and pushed from the outside. I had to get out quite a lot between the spigot and hull before it would begin to move. Once it starts to wiggle it will push right into the boat. Good luck getting them out. Then the real fun begins!
Hi Josh, If you read Terry's article you know there are screws, not bolts. Like his mine did not leak either, probably due to the silicone sealer which was still pliable after 25 years. I took the outside trim ring off in pieces, could not save a single one. Maybe with Dave's tool I could have with enough patience. But I really didn't care. And since I was not painting the cabin trunk I did not have to be too careful. To remove the portlight I dug out silicone and pushed from the outside. I had to get out quite a lot between the spigot and hull before it would begin to move. Once it starts to wiggle it will push right into the boat. Good luck getting them out. Then the real fun begins!
interesting idea for sealing
I was talking with a friend who's opinion I respect. He suggested that rather than routing the plywood between the glass walls and then filling it with epoxy, to get some real thin plywood--bendable--and glass it in flat all the way around. It sounded like a good idea, doesn't use so much epoxy and will be much easier to make real smooth. Any thoughts? By the way, thanks alot to everyone for the helpful advice
I was talking with a friend who's opinion I respect. He suggested that rather than routing the plywood between the glass walls and then filling it with epoxy, to get some real thin plywood--bendable--and glass it in flat all the way around. It sounded like a good idea, doesn't use so much epoxy and will be much easier to make real smooth. Any thoughts? By the way, thanks alot to everyone for the helpful advice
Josh, what is the point.
Josh: I understand if you are putting in smaller ports that may not be a bad way to fill the gap, but if you are just replacing the existing ports with ones of the same or similar size, what is the point. The other advantage of sealing the edges of the liner with epoxy is to prevent leaks and rot in the future. So even if one needs some filler in there, it would be prudent to seal the entire edge with epoxy.
Josh: I understand if you are putting in smaller ports that may not be a bad way to fill the gap, but if you are just replacing the existing ports with ones of the same or similar size, what is the point. The other advantage of sealing the edges of the liner with epoxy is to prevent leaks and rot in the future. So even if one needs some filler in there, it would be prudent to seal the entire edge with epoxy.
the point
The point as I understood it was that glassing in a very thin piece of plywood (1/8'') would not make the hole any smaller, but would function to seal the core from moisture and provide for a very flat surface at the same time--so that you wouldn't have to have the job of perfectly flattening the epoxy, or routing. I'm taking one out tomorrow, so it will depend on what it looks like in there, and what the shape of the plywood is.
The point as I understood it was that glassing in a very thin piece of plywood (1/8'') would not make the hole any smaller, but would function to seal the core from moisture and provide for a very flat surface at the same time--so that you wouldn't have to have the job of perfectly flattening the epoxy, or routing. I'm taking one out tomorrow, so it will depend on what it looks like in there, and what the shape of the plywood is.
Good luck josh
I'm doing mine now also and I havve wood rot, get the old ones out and I bet you will have a bunch of new questions. They came right out on mine. Thats probably why I have wood rot. I have a 86 hunter 34. Probably a little bit of difference in the liners. I'm using beckson rain drains.
I'm doing mine now also and I havve wood rot, get the old ones out and I bet you will have a bunch of new questions. They came right out on mine. Thats probably why I have wood rot. I have a 86 hunter 34. Probably a little bit of difference in the liners. I'm using beckson rain drains.
My way
I replaced the stock ones in 99 with the NFM ones. My workmanship was slack and I had leaks both into the boat and between the liner and deck. In Australia I took them out and had Plexiglass cut to cover the holes with an inch overlapping. that inch was filled with 1/2 inch of double faced foamtape then glazing grade silicone. No screws. The inside was finished with shop made custom frames of a light wood. No problems. I did leave two of the openning type over the stove and directly opposite. Never have needed the extra ventilation offered by the other openning ports.
I replaced the stock ones in 99 with the NFM ones. My workmanship was slack and I had leaks both into the boat and between the liner and deck. In Australia I took them out and had Plexiglass cut to cover the holes with an inch overlapping. that inch was filled with 1/2 inch of double faced foamtape then glazing grade silicone. No screws. The inside was finished with shop made custom frames of a light wood. No problems. I did leave two of the openning type over the stove and directly opposite. Never have needed the extra ventilation offered by the other openning ports.
Removing port from a 37C
I just did this a while ago. Replaced them with the same ports from Gray. Removing them was not too touch. I removed the trim ring and then use a rotary saw, which is like a high speed drill with a special bit that cuts on the edge. Use this to break up the silcone and the port will just push in. You can do the same thing with a Dremel. This makes removal easy. One note you can't use too much silcone, be generous. Good Luck Joel
I just did this a while ago. Replaced them with the same ports from Gray. Removing them was not too touch. I removed the trim ring and then use a rotary saw, which is like a high speed drill with a special bit that cuts on the edge. Use this to break up the silcone and the port will just push in. You can do the same thing with a Dremel. This makes removal easy. One note you can't use too much silcone, be generous. Good Luck Joel
Could use your port part
Euphoria has some leaking ports caused by broken inner locking dogs and cracked frames. I will be glad to pay for the shipping if you save any or all of your ports and would really want to share.
Euphoria has some leaking ports caused by broken inner locking dogs and cracked frames. I will be glad to pay for the shipping if you save any or all of your ports and would really want to share.
Portlight replacement question
when you fill the old drain cutouts with epoxy after clamping inside and out two "shoulder" plastic or wood strips, how do you keep the epoxy from sticking to these temporary forming pieces? Scott
when you fill the old drain cutouts with epoxy after clamping inside and out two "shoulder" plastic or wood strips, how do you keep the epoxy from sticking to these temporary forming pieces? Scott
Different method.
I did not do it your way. I made fillers of 3/4" plywood just the size/shape of the drain cutouts. I epoxied those in first. I only used clamps when I was saturating the original coring between the fiberglass. Use lots of masking tape and paper so no runs get on the gelcoat. Both inside and outside.
I did not do it your way. I made fillers of 3/4" plywood just the size/shape of the drain cutouts. I epoxied those in first. I only used clamps when I was saturating the original coring between the fiberglass. Use lots of masking tape and paper so no runs get on the gelcoat. Both inside and outside.
I just ordered the NFM's trimetrix 5 x12
portlights to replace the forward 4 Grays. I have the large deadlights or fixed ports in the salon so I am only swapping out 4 portlights. Anyway, NFM confirms that the trimetrix are self sealing (no calking) and will fit my cutouts without alteration. What I liked about the design was that the spigots go inward into the cabin rather than extend out on the exterior so they are flush with the cabin wall on the outside and they have a bolt through design. What I don't like is the $169 price and plastic lenses. I could have gone with Beckson Rain Drains for about $110 but I would need to cut the 2" spigot down about 3/4". I guess these are also bolt through either behind or through the trim ring. Anyone have an experience or opinions on this? I know Ed Schenck put in the NFM bronse w/glass lenses and these are $20 cheaper but I would have to enlarge my cutouts 1/4 inch. Ed what do you think now about your portlights? The only problem with the original Grays is the lenses are clouded and crazed and I read that there is a high rate of breakage when trying to just replace the lenses. Scott
portlights to replace the forward 4 Grays. I have the large deadlights or fixed ports in the salon so I am only swapping out 4 portlights. Anyway, NFM confirms that the trimetrix are self sealing (no calking) and will fit my cutouts without alteration. What I liked about the design was that the spigots go inward into the cabin rather than extend out on the exterior so they are flush with the cabin wall on the outside and they have a bolt through design. What I don't like is the $169 price and plastic lenses. I could have gone with Beckson Rain Drains for about $110 but I would need to cut the 2" spigot down about 3/4". I guess these are also bolt through either behind or through the trim ring. Anyone have an experience or opinions on this? I know Ed Schenck put in the NFM bronse w/glass lenses and these are $20 cheaper but I would have to enlarge my cutouts 1/4 inch. Ed what do you think now about your portlights? The only problem with the original Grays is the lenses are clouded and crazed and I read that there is a high rate of breakage when trying to just replace the lenses. Scott
still drying out
Scott, my cutouts are still drying out. I was planning on sealing the holes with penetrating epoxy and then dealing with the cutout sizes--only in terms of shims, not enlarging any holes. I welcome all tips on sealing and fitting the new ports in. By the way, the ports I'm using are Hoods, based on Dave Simpson's recommendation. I shouldn't have to enlarge any cutouts--although I haven't checked them all--but am a little disturbed about the cutouts being too large. We'll see. Dave, any more tips for this stage?
Scott, my cutouts are still drying out. I was planning on sealing the holes with penetrating epoxy and then dealing with the cutout sizes--only in terms of shims, not enlarging any holes. I welcome all tips on sealing and fitting the new ports in. By the way, the ports I'm using are Hoods, based on Dave Simpson's recommendation. I shouldn't have to enlarge any cutouts--although I haven't checked them all--but am a little disturbed about the cutouts being too large. We'll see. Dave, any more tips for this stage?
beckson rain drains
I just installed 9 beckson rain drains in my hunter 34. took two weekends. cutting out the cutouts for the spigots was not a problem. I cut the ports down with a planer.nice job and they are smooth when you plane them. no sanding involved. A buddy of mine just did his and cut them with a saw then ground and sanded them. alot of work involved that way. I can get the beckson rain drains for 95.00 apiece. Tim Welsh H34 AKA Cabo Wabo
I just installed 9 beckson rain drains in my hunter 34. took two weekends. cutting out the cutouts for the spigots was not a problem. I cut the ports down with a planer.nice job and they are smooth when you plane them. no sanding involved. A buddy of mine just did his and cut them with a saw then ground and sanded them. alot of work involved that way. I can get the beckson rain drains for 95.00 apiece. Tim Welsh H34 AKA Cabo Wabo
Hey Cabo Wabo Tim,
did you cut down the spigot lips after install or before? Also, are your trim rings stuck on or screwed in or thru bolted? Could you walk me thru the install? Are you getting the 5x12 for $95? What did you use to make the cut out for drain channel? And one more thing . . . Thanks. Scott
did you cut down the spigot lips after install or before? Also, are your trim rings stuck on or screwed in or thru bolted? Could you walk me thru the install? Are you getting the 5x12 for $95? What did you use to make the cut out for drain channel? And one more thing . . . Thanks. Scott
Shameless plug
You get the 5x12 for $95 here in the HunterOwners.com chandlery, which is not only a good price, it supports the operation of the web site. / / end plug
You get the 5x12 for $95 here in the HunterOwners.com chandlery, which is not only a good price, it supports the operation of the web site. / / end plug
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