New Hunter owner, need all halyards, sheets etc

[Submarine]

I'm the proud owner of a 1985 Hunter 25.5 (shoal, Yanmar diesel). Looks like the previous owner last sailed it in 2009 and just wadded up all the rope so it's rotted. I need to replace the main sail halyard and jib halyard, plus all the sheets. Who has the best place to purchase, length, and tips on install?

Also, there are two winches in the cockpit but only one Maxwell 14 mounted on the starboard side of the pop-top. Any idea why?

 

[LeslieTroyer]

You can purchase them here in their store. They should know the diameter an length.
Les

 

[ggrizzard]

The third winch is probably for raising the main sail or reefing the mainsail from the cockpit. If I am correct, you will need to ensure the halyards are long enough to reach the cockpit and that there is at least one fairlead to handle the line from the mast base. If it's for reefing, you should see some kind of pulley arrangement on the boom used to direct a line that leads to the cockpit that pulls down the main to it's reef point on the main sail. You may have more than just a main and jib halyard in that pile of rope!

 

[Submarine]

It's a mess for sure, I'll snap some pictures tomorrow. The main does have at least one reef in it. I'm a little overwhelmed at the moment, going from a Hobie 16 to this!

 

[ggrizzard]

Just think of all the new things you'll learn in the next, uh...
thirty years!

 

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[Crazy Dave Condon]

I am a retired Hunter dealer specializing in the smaller boats and sold a few of this boat till production ceased but will try to help here. First there is boat information on this boat with photos, owner reviews, etc if you will go to the top of the page and look under Boat info, then Hunter, then 25.5 and you will see that information. Unfortunately, the complete owner's manual although being listed is not complete. First suggest in the small boats that you post there to see if anyone has the complete manual to see if they will send it to you. I will be glad to help. You can also send a private email via the forum email if you go up to the upper right clicking on your name and follow the prompts to a new message which is private between that party and you alone. I do not recommend that you post your contact information on the open forum and most of us will say the same thing.
Also when describing a certain issue, photos sure do help to resolve an issue much quicker giving us a better perspective.

One thing that will come up is which mast and boom you have. Either Kenyon Isomat which you can get parts from Sail Rite, Inc or Z Spar which you can get parts either from this forum store highly suggested or from U.S. Spars. ( long story about Z spar and u.s. spars but will leave that one alone.)

Generally, this site has all the lengths needed as Hunter set them up to do retail sales and the new owner is a former Hunter employee who knows his stuff as I have known him since the 80's I guess.
Be glad to help but again I would address in the future all questions to the 25.5 in small boats as most owners are there on that section.
Crazy Dave Condon

 

[Submarine]

OK here are some pics of the mast, the two cockpit winches and the one odd winch on the starboard side of the pop-top. I also included the boom and various other parts that I'm 100% sure how it all goes together. My contact info isn't private, you can email me at submarine@jetskiaz.com. The domain routes to my gmail which has excellent spam filters.

 

[Submarine]

more of the boom, the broken bow eye that I need to replace (seems rigged to me) and a mast support I made today

 

[Submarine]

Just think of all the new things you'll learn in the next, uh...
thirty years!

That's what keeps me sailing- you never stop learning

 

[Buckeye T]

The third winch on the starboard side is for the main and jib halyards. They route under the pop top through the eyes just forward of the winch.

 

[Submarine]

The third winch on the starboard side is for the main and jib halyards. They route under the pop top through the eyes just forward of the winch.

I read somewhere that you can use the mainsail halyard to step the mast? Is this winch used for this process too?

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

You have a Kenyon Isomat mast and the best place for parts on the mast and boom are Rigrite. However, I know you have filters but suggest removing personal contact information and go thru the forum email. You will get a lot of junk and possible a hacker or two but that is your choice.

 

[Submarine]

You have a Kenyon Isomat mast and the best place for parts on the mast and boom are Rigrite. However, I know you have filters but suggest removing personal contact information and go thru the forum email. You will get a lot of junk and possible a hacker or two but that is your choice.

Thanks I will check it out. I'm a techie and use best practices to prevent hacking. Nothing to get on this computer anyway except pictures of my cats lol.

 

[isaksp00]

I don't know your boat, but on my 23 (which probably has a similar sized mast) I use the jib halyard attached via an aluminum gin pole to pull the mast up - that is, the halyard goes from the top of the mast to the end of the gin pole, top fitting. Then I use a line and two double blocks to actually pull up the mast from the underside of the gin pole. If long enough, you could use your main sheet assembly with its blocks to provide the pulling power. The line on my block and tackle setup is quite long, so I run it back through the jib sheet lead on the deck to one of the jib sheet winches. I can see you have self tailing winches, which makes it easier (I lack these). My trailer has a stout aluminum extension tube attached to the vertical bar that holds the winch, so that makes for a handy attachment point for the lower end of the block and tackle. If your boat has a chain plate inside the anchor locker with two holes for attaching pins, you could use the hole that isn't used for the forestay as the attachment point (likely the aft most hole, as the forward hole would be for the stay). If you have a hanked on jib (no roller furler) then you'll have to attach the stay to the forward hole, so the tack of the jib can be shackled to the chain plate (or maybe a tang or pennant attached to it).

 

[Submarine]

I don't know your boat, but on my 23 (which probably has a similar sized mast) I use the jib halyard attached via an aluminum gin pole to pull the mast up - that is, the halyard goes from the top of the mast to the end of the gin pole, top fitting. Then I use a line and two double blocks to actually pull up the mast from the underside of the gin pole. If long enough, you could use your main sheet assembly with its blocks to provide the pulling power. The line on my block and tackle setup is quite long, so I run it back through the jib sheet lead on the deck to one of the jib sheet winches. I can see you have self tailing winches, which makes it easier (I lack these). My trailer has a stout aluminum extension tube attached to the vertical bar that holds the winch, so that makes for a handy attachment point for the lower end of the block and tackle. If your boat has a chain plate inside the anchor locker with two holes for attaching pins, you could use the hole that isn't used for the forestay as the attachment point (likely the aft most hole, as the forward hole would be for the stay). If you have a hanked on jib (no roller furler) then you'll have to attach the stay to the forward hole, so the tack of the jib can be shackled to the chain plate (or maybe a tang or pennant attached to it).

Thanks for that detailed reply, would you have any pictures? I'm not quite certain how a gin pole works, I'll have to watch some videos or something. I ordered all new sheets and halyards from this site so if they are extra long as I've been reading here for mast stepping then your way should work. I do have a roller furling jib, I'm assuming it works.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@isaksp00 is a good source of information on the 23. You can send him a private email if you will go up to the upper right and click on your name and follow the prompts for a private message. There are others here as well.

 

[isaksp00]

I don't have any photos of the mast raising setup, and won't be near the boat until at least this weekend. I'd search online for posts and videos like "mast raising gin pole" or "mast raising system" and you will find examples. Some Hunter boats (I think mainly the water ballasted boats?) came with that system, and have fittings to attach the pole to the mast. The 23 did not, so the person I bought the boat from did his own (by drilling holes in the side of the mast, unfortunately).
The gin pole is a stiff pole, maybe aluminum tubing or stainless, even wood or stout PVC I suppose, that attaches to the mast base near the bottom, as close to the swivel on the mast foot as possible, facing forward. It does not have to be fixed so it cannot tilt up and down, just so the attachment point does not slide up and down the mast tube. On mine, the PO (previous owner) used pretty thick walled aluminum tubing, and made a u shaped bracket from thick aluminum plate that wraps around the mast from the rear, and has bolts through the mast sideways to hold it. I would think you can fashion something like that from wood that clamps to the mast (but not so tight to crush it).
The pole extends horizontally forward (when the mast is up) to just short of the forestay attachment, maybe about 3 or 4 inches short. It need some sort of attachments (in my case eye bolts) so two lines can be attached, one each on the upper and lower side, right near the end by the bow. The jib halyard goes down to the eye that is on top, and is then cleated to its mast cleat so it makes a right triangle between the pole and the mast, where the halyard is the hypotenuse. The pole may be slightly above horizontal (a bit less than 90 deg to the mast). Picture it when the mast is down - the pole sticks up. The block and tackle you use to pull it up pulls on the bottom of the pole, and the triangle shape provides a much better pull angle than if you just attach the halyard to a block and tackle.
It is also helpful to have "baby stays" that support the mast sideways as you lift or lower it, unless you always have a helper or two to support it - it will want to lean over to the side, which can break the mast foot fitting (don't ask me how I know).
Now, I am assuming that year 25.5 did not come with any sort of mast raising tools. My '91 23 did not, so I assume this was a newer improvement for the trailerable boats.

 

[Submarine]

I don't have any photos of the mast raising setup, and won't be near the boat until at least this weekend. I'd search online for posts and videos like "mast raising gin pole" or "mast raising system" and you will find examples. Some Hunter boats (I think mainly the water ballasted boats?) came with that system, and have fittings to attach the pole to the mast. The 23 did not, so the person I bought the boat from did his own (by drilling holes in the side of the mast, unfortunately).
The gin pole is a stiff pole, maybe aluminum tubing or stainless, even wood or stout PVC I suppose, that attaches to the mast base near the bottom, as close to the swivel on the mast foot as possible, facing forward. It does not have to be fixed so it cannot tilt up and down, just so the attachment point does not slide up and down the mast tube. On mine, the PO (previous owner) used pretty thick walled aluminum tubing, and made a u shaped bracket from thick aluminum plate that wraps around the mast from the rear, and has bolts through the mast sideways to hold it. I would think you can fashion something like that from wood that clamps to the mast (but not so tight to crush it).
The pole extends horizontally forward (when the mast is up) to just short of the forestay attachment, maybe about 3 or 4 inches short. It need some sort of attachments (in my case eye bolts) so two lines can be attached, one each on the upper and lower side, right near the end by the bow. The jib halyard goes down to the eye that is on top, and is then cleated to its mast cleat so it makes a right triangle between the pole and the mast, where the halyard is the hypotenuse. The pole may be slightly above horizontal (a bit less than 90 deg to the mast). Picture it when the mast is down - the pole sticks up. The block and tackle you use to pull it up pulls on the bottom of the pole, and the triangle shape provides a much better pull angle than if you just attach the halyard to a block and tackle.
It is also helpful to have "baby stays" that support the mast sideways as you lift or lower it, unless you always have a helper or two to support it - it will want to lean over to the side, which can break the mast foot fitting (don't ask me how I know).
Now, I am assuming that year 25.5 did not come with any sort of mast raising tools. My '91 23 did not, so I assume this was a newer improvement for the trailerable boats.

That helps a lot, I can visualize it now. The few videos I have watched have been lacking. I have some extra stuff I haven't gone through, but nothing as long as would make it to the bow. I suppose you have to attach the roller furler and guide it as you raise or can you lash it to the base of the mast and then move it into place when the mast is vertical? The previous owner only stepped it once at a marina, not sure what the owners before that did.

 

[isaksp00]

Depends on how your furler attaches. On my Harken furler, the drum is in itself the turnbuckle - it has threaded holes on top and bottom, and the swaged stud on the stay and also a stud that pins to the chainplate go into these holes. As you twist the drum assembly, it tightens. So I lift the mast with that drum unattached, leaving me just the furler foil and the threaded stud on its lower end to deal with when I raise the mast. After I winch in the block and tackle I use to lift the mast, I tighten it enough so that the lower end of the stud on the stay can reach the drum top (with some slack in the stay) while the drum bottom is threaded about two turns onto the lower stud. I can then hold the upper stud against the upper furler hole and thread it on, and then I just twist it until it is the right tightness (which I do by feel and by looking at the mast - not scientific, but I don't race). I find that easier than trying to lift the mast and pin it with the drum already attached to the stay, and it is easier to thread on the drum that to try to pull it down so I can pin the drum to the tang extensions.
Your mileage may vary - it would depend on how hard it is to attach your drum or its external turnbuckle (if you have one) to the stay and chainplate after the mast is vertical.