The new Hunter 33 2004's are hitting the waters. I have one to be delivered in a little over a month. Are there any comments? Anything you wished you would have taken care of while the boat was still in the yard? Most importantly any problems reported that a new owner should be aware of?
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Boat Yard items
If you want a TV on board, get an antenna before stepping the mast because in order to get good reception the antenna should be above the spreaders and the cable goes inside the mast into the forward cabin. Also, be sure to find the skylight covers which snap onto the skylights which are suppose to come with the boat.
If you want a TV on board, get an antenna before stepping the mast because in order to get good reception the antenna should be above the spreaders and the cable goes inside the mast into the forward cabin. Also, be sure to find the skylight covers which snap onto the skylights which are suppose to come with the boat.
Bottom paint.
Make sure the bottom is prepped correctly. It is necessary to get ALL of the mold release out of the gelcoat. Then a primer coat before the anti-fouling. If it were my new boat I would do a barrier coat. But you have to clear that with Hunter first due to warranty considerations. A friend is getting a new bottom this spring, paid for by Hunter. His boat was commissioned last year and came out of the water with a lot of bare gelcoat showing.
Make sure the bottom is prepped correctly. It is necessary to get ALL of the mold release out of the gelcoat. Then a primer coat before the anti-fouling. If it were my new boat I would do a barrier coat. But you have to clear that with Hunter first due to warranty considerations. A friend is getting a new bottom this spring, paid for by Hunter. His boat was commissioned last year and came out of the water with a lot of bare gelcoat showing.
Re: Bottom Paint
I have a light sanding to clean the bottom and to provide a good adhesion surface, followed by a cleaner/solvent wipe down. Then an epoxy coat(dark color) followed by an ablative (lighter color). Yearly ablative maintenance and if I see the darker epoxy layer through the ablative then I know where additional coats are probably needed. This was the process recommended to me by the yard (Hunter dealer) and it sounded reasonable for a new boat
I have a light sanding to clean the bottom and to provide a good adhesion surface, followed by a cleaner/solvent wipe down. Then an epoxy coat(dark color) followed by an ablative (lighter color). Yearly ablative maintenance and if I see the darker epoxy layer through the ablative then I know where additional coats are probably needed. This was the process recommended to me by the yard (Hunter dealer) and it sounded reasonable for a new boat
Re: Boat Yard items
Good point about the antenna. I will follow-up on that today. I was thinking about a USB TV attatchment for my laptop that will be at the Nav Station. I am not sure what that connector would look like so I think I will get that now and work out the details. I'll keep an eye out for the skylight covers.
Good point about the antenna. I will follow-up on that today. I was thinking about a USB TV attatchment for my laptop that will be at the Nav Station. I am not sure what that connector would look like so I think I will get that now and work out the details. I'll keep an eye out for the skylight covers.
Barrier Coat.
Andy: I would suggest a epoxy barrier coat. They are using better material now but an ounce of prevetion...... Call Hunter (not the dealer) about sanding the bottom for barrier coat applications.
Andy: I would suggest a epoxy barrier coat. They are using better material now but an ounce of prevetion...... Call Hunter (not the dealer) about sanding the bottom for barrier coat applications.
Coat Fastners w/ Anti-sieze Compound
"Production boats" are rushed through the assembly line in the least-cost way of puting them toghether and getting them sold at a profit. The barrier coat suggestion is an EXCELLENT idea! It costs comparatively little to put it on now but when you get blisters it will seriously lower the value of your investment as well as cost a lot to repair properly. The other area of concern for a new boat is corrosion where there is stainless fastners in aluminum. This is an excellent time to take every screw or bolt out and coat it with an anti-sieze compound such as Lanocoat or Never-Seze. The steering quadrant, screws that go into aluminum plates that are imbedded into the coach roof or deck (winches, turning blocks, sheet stoppers, etc.), screws in the mast (the masthead would be a good place to start before the mast is stepped), etc. Doing this now can save a lot of grief in a few years when you want to work on something and the screws won't come out or get twisted off. Electrical: coat every contact with dielectric compound. Running lights, steaming and anchor lights, cabin light bulb bases, engine connectors (the engine has a number of plastic block connectors - take them apart and squirt some in), engine sender contacts, etc. Work with the dealer and find out what they will allow you to do without voiding any warranties. A couple days of preventative work now will save a vacation or untold hours of troubleshooting and repair later. One argument is favor of buying a new boat is there are fewer problems. With proper preparation it can stay that way!
"Production boats" are rushed through the assembly line in the least-cost way of puting them toghether and getting them sold at a profit. The barrier coat suggestion is an EXCELLENT idea! It costs comparatively little to put it on now but when you get blisters it will seriously lower the value of your investment as well as cost a lot to repair properly. The other area of concern for a new boat is corrosion where there is stainless fastners in aluminum. This is an excellent time to take every screw or bolt out and coat it with an anti-sieze compound such as Lanocoat or Never-Seze. The steering quadrant, screws that go into aluminum plates that are imbedded into the coach roof or deck (winches, turning blocks, sheet stoppers, etc.), screws in the mast (the masthead would be a good place to start before the mast is stepped), etc. Doing this now can save a lot of grief in a few years when you want to work on something and the screws won't come out or get twisted off. Electrical: coat every contact with dielectric compound. Running lights, steaming and anchor lights, cabin light bulb bases, engine connectors (the engine has a number of plastic block connectors - take them apart and squirt some in), engine sender contacts, etc. Work with the dealer and find out what they will allow you to do without voiding any warranties. A couple days of preventative work now will save a vacation or untold hours of troubleshooting and repair later. One argument is favor of buying a new boat is there are fewer problems. With proper preparation it can stay that way!
Re: Coat Fastners w/ Anti-sieze Compound
The Anti-sieze Compound is a good idea. I did buy a new boat because I wanted to have a little time to actually sail it before the maintenance got overwhelming. I'll add it to my list. Maybe if I provide it to the folks who will be assembling/commissioning my boat then they could do most of it when the boat goes together. The boat arrives at the yard with a lot of the hardware un-installed during shipping. I need to call my dealer and ask what kind of epoxy they are using. It wasn't stated by you or Steve D. but with a barrier epoxy coat is it still neccessary to to apply an ablative layer. I am assuming yes.
The Anti-sieze Compound is a good idea. I did buy a new boat because I wanted to have a little time to actually sail it before the maintenance got overwhelming. I'll add it to my list. Maybe if I provide it to the folks who will be assembling/commissioning my boat then they could do most of it when the boat goes together. The boat arrives at the yard with a lot of the hardware un-installed during shipping. I need to call my dealer and ask what kind of epoxy they are using. It wasn't stated by you or Steve D. but with a barrier epoxy coat is it still neccessary to to apply an ablative layer. I am assuming yes.
They have nothing to do with each other.
Andy: Bottom paint and barrier coating have noting to do with each other. The only thing you need to know is it is much cheaper to apply the barrier coat now. There have been several threads on this site regarding barrier coating new boats. The owners will tell you that sanding the bottom will void you warranty. That is true with the exception of applying barrier coating. I believe that you need to notify Hunter if/when you do this, so I would verify this with customer service (policies change from time to time). Interlux makes a very good product, but there are several others too.
Andy: Bottom paint and barrier coating have noting to do with each other. The only thing you need to know is it is much cheaper to apply the barrier coat now. There have been several threads on this site regarding barrier coating new boats. The owners will tell you that sanding the bottom will void you warranty. That is true with the exception of applying barrier coating. I believe that you need to notify Hunter if/when you do this, so I would verify this with customer service (policies change from time to time). Interlux makes a very good product, but there are several others too.
new 33
I took delivery, What a well balanced helm!! Have in mast furler and it works like a charm. Got 27hp engine which is a good idea. like the fact that all seacocks at there at bottom of steps under cabin floor. Like space amazing space for 33 1/2 foot boat. got optional winches aft makes for easy single hander. Was out in 10 plus knots and according to knot( not GPS) hit 5.8 knots. Problems-- 1) have a whining sound while in gear at 12-1800rpm dealer correcting. 2) engine intake has small leak and dealer taking care off.
I took delivery, What a well balanced helm!! Have in mast furler and it works like a charm. Got 27hp engine which is a good idea. like the fact that all seacocks at there at bottom of steps under cabin floor. Like space amazing space for 33 1/2 foot boat. got optional winches aft makes for easy single hander. Was out in 10 plus knots and according to knot( not GPS) hit 5.8 knots. Problems-- 1) have a whining sound while in gear at 12-1800rpm dealer correcting. 2) engine intake has small leak and dealer taking care off.
Re:New 33
Pat, thanks for the input. My boat is sitting in the yard, the bottom was just done (VC Offshore). I am very excited and cannot wait. I ordered the straight mast hoping to be competitive Thursday nights. I also think the 27hp is a good idea.
Pat, thanks for the input. My boat is sitting in the yard, the bottom was just done (VC Offshore). I am very excited and cannot wait. I ordered the straight mast hoping to be competitive Thursday nights. I also think the 27hp is a good idea.
New 33
Pat, I also ordered a 33, to be delivered in June. Last year I looked at the 326 but decided against it. Glad I waited! The 33 is so much better than the 326 in my opinion. I ordered it with the 27hp engine. I did get the in-mast furling, only because I am in the San Francisco Bay where we are never short of wind, but I certainly understand ordering the standard. I too ordered the aft jib winches, and upgraded the size to #30 on the forward ones. Let's see what else: Deep keel, windlass, dodger, refrig, GPS, 3 blad prop, auto pilot, and ST 60 wind and Tri-data. I can't wait. I will let everyone know how the delivery goes and post a picture. Kit
Pat, I also ordered a 33, to be delivered in June. Last year I looked at the 326 but decided against it. Glad I waited! The 33 is so much better than the 326 in my opinion. I ordered it with the 27hp engine. I did get the in-mast furling, only because I am in the San Francisco Bay where we are never short of wind, but I certainly understand ordering the standard. I too ordered the aft jib winches, and upgraded the size to #30 on the forward ones. Let's see what else: Deep keel, windlass, dodger, refrig, GPS, 3 blad prop, auto pilot, and ST 60 wind and Tri-data. I can't wait. I will let everyone know how the delivery goes and post a picture. Kit
Barrier coat cost?
On my 290, I used Petit Horizon multi-season ablative, which held up pretty well, and wasn't too expensive. It had no barrier coat. Anyone know what the approximate cost of a barrier coat would be for a boat this size?
On my 290, I used Petit Horizon multi-season ablative, which held up pretty well, and wasn't too expensive. It had no barrier coat. Anyone know what the approximate cost of a barrier coat would be for a boat this size?
Barrier coat cost.
In 1999 I paid $55. a gallon for Interlux 2000E. Now I see it at WM for $70.! You should get a coat per gallon and will need at least four coats. I did five coats with seven gallons on a 37-footer. The keys are a very clean gelcoat and good weather. Only so many hours can lapse between coats. Otherwise you have to treat the "too dry" coat before applying the next one.
In 1999 I paid $55. a gallon for Interlux 2000E. Now I see it at WM for $70.! You should get a coat per gallon and will need at least four coats. I did five coats with seven gallons on a 37-footer. The keys are a very clean gelcoat and good weather. Only so many hours can lapse between coats. Otherwise you have to treat the "too dry" coat before applying the next one.
Greg, it would be expensive now.
Greg: Beyond the cost of the epoxy, you would now need to strip the bottom to bare gelcoat to apply a barrier coat now. I would guess that you would be looking at $1500-2000 to do the complete job now. This is why I suggested that Andy have it done before the first coat of bottom paint has been applied.
Greg: Beyond the cost of the epoxy, you would now need to strip the bottom to bare gelcoat to apply a barrier coat now. I would guess that you would be looking at $1500-2000 to do the complete job now. This is why I suggested that Andy have it done before the first coat of bottom paint has been applied.
Re: Barrier coat cost?
Thanks for all of the replies. I talked to my dealer and for them to apply an epoxy barrier coat would be north of $2400. They recommended waiting the five years of no blister warranty that comes with the new hull, then strip and apply barrier coat then. Follow-up question: I did not order radar with the boat. because my intended sailing range is Cape Cod, MA to Bar Harbor, ME I am beginning to think that with the amount of fog in the area I may have made a mistake and will probably add it soon after I take delivery. With the swept back spreaders I would think that it would interfere with the main pretty easily. What is the consensus for mounting? And one more radar newbie question - Cockpit display, Nav Station display, or both? Thanks
Thanks for all of the replies. I talked to my dealer and for them to apply an epoxy barrier coat would be north of $2400. They recommended waiting the five years of no blister warranty that comes with the new hull, then strip and apply barrier coat then. Follow-up question: I did not order radar with the boat. because my intended sailing range is Cape Cod, MA to Bar Harbor, ME I am beginning to think that with the amount of fog in the area I may have made a mistake and will probably add it soon after I take delivery. With the swept back spreaders I would think that it would interfere with the main pretty easily. What is the consensus for mounting? And one more radar newbie question - Cockpit display, Nav Station display, or both? Thanks
Recommend Cockpit Display
When you're in fog and need radar you really need it in the cockpit, not down below. You'll see all kinds of targets, some which are important and some not and you don't want to be running up and down the companionway to check the radar and then look outside to see if you can see the target. To play in the fog you should have a radar reflector (at least one) and you must sound a horn per the regulations. If your boat gets T-boned and you wern't sending the proper sound signal my guess is you'd have a weak defense. I use a loud-hailer which has built-in settings for the appropriate sound signal for traveling under sail in fog or traveling under power in fog which makes it a virtual no-brainer.
When you're in fog and need radar you really need it in the cockpit, not down below. You'll see all kinds of targets, some which are important and some not and you don't want to be running up and down the companionway to check the radar and then look outside to see if you can see the target. To play in the fog you should have a radar reflector (at least one) and you must sound a horn per the regulations. If your boat gets T-boned and you wern't sending the proper sound signal my guess is you'd have a weak defense. I use a loud-hailer which has built-in settings for the appropriate sound signal for traveling under sail in fog or traveling under power in fog which makes it a virtual no-brainer.
John, don't think I'm arguing with you, but
In our area (We boat 3 miles apart) in restricted passageways you make a good point. Especially single handing, but maybe Andy will be in open water. My wife made the same argument when we installed our radar, so I set it up so that it could be used on watch in the cockpit too. Well, the fog set in, off the Washington coast and she couldn't see the bow lights much less the tricolor. The cabin heater was on. She is an intelligent person. The radar never left the cabin again. That was 14 years ago
In our area (We boat 3 miles apart) in restricted passageways you make a good point. Especially single handing, but maybe Andy will be in open water. My wife made the same argument when we installed our radar, so I set it up so that it could be used on watch in the cockpit too. Well, the fog set in, off the Washington coast and she couldn't see the bow lights much less the tricolor. The cabin heater was on. She is an intelligent person. The radar never left the cabin again. That was 14 years ago
You ordered an electric windlass...
I ordered a 33 at the sail expo in Jack London Square. When I asked about the windlass, the sailsman seemed to suggest I get that later. Any thoughts why? Does it fit in the little round indentation in the anchor locker cover? I also used to sail in SF bay, but moved and have sailed in Port San Luis and now Santa Barbara area. Thanks Michael
I ordered a 33 at the sail expo in Jack London Square. When I asked about the windlass, the sailsman seemed to suggest I get that later. Any thoughts why? Does it fit in the little round indentation in the anchor locker cover? I also used to sail in SF bay, but moved and have sailed in Port San Luis and now Santa Barbara area. Thanks Michael
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