Need to replace H34 Engine Thru Hull Seacock

centerline

centerline

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Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
PGIJon said:
I think I will also add a 3 way diverter thus allowing the engine to act as an emergency bilge pump. I'll run a hose with a strainer from there to the bilge or maybe in the H34 case, under the bilge.


-Jon
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your plan may seem like a good idea, but in reality you are only adding another "problem area" where none needs to be.

the seawater pump doesnt really pump a very high volume at all, and its so very unlikely that you would ever benefit from it.
the trouble of install and maintenance does not pencil out.....

for the cost and trouble to achieve better results and more functionality, you would be much better off installing a high volume wash down pump that can be used for seawater showers in the cockpit, boat washing, maybe diverted to a seawater galley faucet.... and have the intake plumbed so it can be dropped into the bilge and pumped out if needed.... :D
 
Dan Johnson

Dan Johnson

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Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Allen...

I put Marelon thru-hulls and valves in my 27 as replacements. Be aware that the valves may stiffen up after a couple of years. You'll need to keep after them with lube and work them often. I know of several that wound up having broken levers as a result of this problem.
 
Dan Johnson

Dan Johnson

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Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Jon...

You can use plywood as the valve backer if you seal it up thoroughly on the surfaces and all the exposed edges. A product called "Gluv-It" is a good choice if you don't use multiple resin coats to seal the wood.
 
Allan12210

Allan12210

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Jan 22, 2008
1,654
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Dan Johnson said:
I put Marelon thru-hulls and valves in my 27 as replacements. Be aware that the valves may stiffen up after a couple of years. You'll need to keep after them with lube and work them often. I know of several that wound up having broken levers as a result of this problem.
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Thanks Dan, I'll stay on top of that. You know whats worse than no lube? A thruhull that has had the nut Loctited on. With two of us we barely got a couple of turns before it broke loose from the hull and the nut started rounding over. I may be 50 miles from home but never leave without a Sawsall. And this is only day one of the haulout. And the yard was 3.5 hours late pulling us. There goes Friday splash. But I digress.
 
dis-patch

dis-patch

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Sep 14, 2013
35
Hunter 376 Apollo Beach
A lot of very good discussion here on a very worthy subject. I'm a fairly new first time owner of a 1997 Hunter 376. I was told at survey that all 7 of my ball valves/sea cocks need to be replace at some point soon and was told to schedule it at next haul out. I've done some homework and have since purchased a newly patented product called SEABUNG. The principle is good. I haven't yet tried it but plan to since i spent close to $100 for the item with shipping. You should all check this thing out, http://www.seabung.com.
 
centerline

centerline

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Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
dis-patch said:
A lot of very good discussion here on a very worthy subject. I'm a fairly new first time owner of a 1997 Hunter 376. I was told at survey that all 7 of my ball valves/sea cocks need to be replace at some point soon and was told to schedule it at next haul out. I've done some homework and have since purchased a newly patented product called SEABUNG. The principle is good. I haven't yet tried it but plan to since i spent close to $100 for the item with shipping. You should all check this thing out, http://www.seabung.com.
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a member posted a link to that awhile back.... i was looking for it to repost but couldnt find it or remember the name of it.
there is a video somewhere of it in use. it looks like it works very well for the purpose, and a handy item to have... so you can loan it out to a friend when they need to replace a valve, but never be able to find it when you need it:D
 
P

PGIJon

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Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
Nice device, great idea, but am I missing something here because I think one could take a rubber jar grip, a wooden dowel and a screw and make the same device for about $3-$5.
 
B

braol

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Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
PGIJon said:
I think I will also add a 3 way diverter thus allowing the engine to act as an emergency bilge pump. I'll run a hose with a strainer from there to the bilge or maybe in the H34 case, under the bilge.-Jon
Click to expand
No need for a diverter. If you need your engine to act as a bilge pump just disconnect the hose from the seacock and rest it on the floor where it can suck up any water in an emergency. (Just don't let it run dry...)

PS Don't mix marelon and bronze fittings together.
 
P

PGIJon

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Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
braol, thanks for the heads up on the marelon and bronze. As far as the diverter goes, the thru hull is above a good inch or 2 above the cabin sole, so I really would not want to wait until the water rose that high.

I'm looking for the additional option to the bilge pumps. I do liked the idea of the wash down pump.

I carry a hand pump but highly doubt that I could really pump it enough to make any difference. About two months ago, my neighbor was away and he asked me to check on his boat. Well his bilge pump went south while he was up north, so I took my hand gusher over to his boat and began to pump... about 5 minutes later, I was drenched in sweat and had probably pumped about 1/4" of water out of his boat. BTW it's a larger fishing boat.... anyway, I realized there and then that I could never hand pump out the boat out of danger. I would simply do better bailing with a bucket.
 
Allan12210

Allan12210

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Jan 22, 2008
1,654
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
centerline said:
whats the theory behind this statement?...
I dont see any reason why you couldnt use the two together...
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Some degree of truth there especially in industrial applications. Markedly different coefficient of thermal expansion (10 x) between metals and pure plastics (PVC, polypropylene, PVDF). We always joined those combinations with flange connectors and gaskets, not by threading one into the other. If the temp would increase a few degrees then crack went the plastic or it would leak depending on which was the gozinta. With the carbon/glass filled Marelon composite and straight threads, well I don't know if this can happen. It seems widely used and I am guilty of it as well. Marelon to Marelon sounds like a best practice.
 
B

braol

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Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
The Forespar site cautions against using Marelon on foreign manufactured bronze fittings due to possible thread compatibility. They do, however, say that they can be used on bronze fittings.
I know that in the aircraft industry that like-to-like is the standard. I know that on Porsche 911 SC cars of the late 70's-early 80's the use of titanium cylinder studs in the aluminum engine cases led to major issues...due to the different coefficient of thermal expansion as mentioned by Allan12210.
Even MaineSail said "Either go all bronze or all Marelon. It is not generally a good idea to mix plastics and bronze bellow the waterline especially when the plastic is the female piece.. While Marelon is inert to galvanic corrosion you have added zero benefit to the equation by using a Marelon BV. Your weak galvanic link is still the bronze thru-hull. Marelon also requires yearly lubing and MUST be excersized on a regular basis or they will freeze and you'll snap the handles. Just ask around I know of many who have had this happen inclung myself and other members of this forum.."
I guess it's up to the individual boat owner but, as they say, "The most affordable way to do anything is by doing it right the first time..."
 
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PGIJon

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Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
With the diver here, I was unable to get a good enough grip on the thru hull without risking a failure. Due to the fact that this was an intake strainer, the diver wasn't able to put his tool inside to hold it still.

Since the only problem is not being able to close the valve, I'm going to take Allan's advice and hook up the new valve in series. That way I'll be able to shut off the water until I haul the boat out.

Thanks Allan! How's your haul out going?
 
Allan12210

Allan12210

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Jan 22, 2008
1,654
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
PGIJon said:
Since the only problem is not being able to close the valve, I'm going to take Allan's advice and hook up the new valve in series. That way I'll be able to shut off the water until I haul the boat out.

Thanks Allan! How's your haul out going?
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The thru hull part is going fine. I work on it in between tasks that I have to wait for. I have pictures. We are headed to the yard now and first up is to dry fit to get the valve handle turned the right way then install so we can get the first coat of paint on.

The rest is slow especially with new rules about no wet sanding. That took an extra day to prep with the required vacuum sanders.
 
Allan12210

Allan12210

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Jan 22, 2008
1,654
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
The new larger through hull is in. I listened to the others and swapped the bronze through hull for a Marelon one to match the ball valve. Now there is no more thread mismatch or material mismatch. As my first plastic underwater through hull I will have to use caution in the future when prepping the bottom for painting (i.e. dry sanding with 40 grit paper). Don't want to grind that sucker off.
 
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