Need Rudder and swing keel dimensions (1981, H22)
- Thread starter SeaTR
- Start date
Yes, I bought their product. And installed it a number of years ago.
I'm very satisfied. They only provided the moulded CB, while I had to hole saw the pivot point and installed this failed PVC, as well as the drilled out nylon rod for the SS pivot rod.
But now, it appears as though I used the incorrect material (PVC). I'm searching for the aforementioned JimInPB
recommended material for availability / application.
I'm very satisfied. They only provided the moulded CB, while I had to hole saw the pivot point and installed this failed PVC, as well as the drilled out nylon rod for the SS pivot rod.
But now, it appears as though I used the incorrect material (PVC). I'm searching for the aforementioned JimInPB
recommended material for availability / application.
Awesome info here in this thread!! I’ll be tackling this leaking swing keel bolt problem here in the next month when it stops snowing. The bilge fills with water after a day on the water and the keel knocks around in waves and is annoying to listen to while trying to sleep lol! So I’ll be dropping it and refitting the hardware
When taking it off how do you access the bolts from the inside under the ballast, and reseat the ballast?
I was looking at adding some butyl tape to the bolts to further prevent leaks. Opinions?
IDtrucks,
To access the keel bolts, you need to remove the salon table, cut through the fiberglass liner at the very base of the table to remove the entire covering over the swing keel housing. Be careful not to cut too deep on the liner as the keel watertight housing is just inside the liner. You would not want to cut through this housing. There is no need to move any lead ballast to access the keel bolts. There should be some pictures in this thread showing these details, if not, let me know and I'll dig around for some and post.
Yes, using butyl tape might be a good option. I use rubber conical washers with SS backing washers.
What year is your Hunter 22 ? Any pix ?
Where to do sail / plan on sailing ?
To access the keel bolts, you need to remove the salon table, cut through the fiberglass liner at the very base of the table to remove the entire covering over the swing keel housing. Be careful not to cut too deep on the liner as the keel watertight housing is just inside the liner. You would not want to cut through this housing. There is no need to move any lead ballast to access the keel bolts. There should be some pictures in this thread showing these details, if not, let me know and I'll dig around for some and post.
Yes, using butyl tape might be a good option. I use rubber conical washers with SS backing washers.
What year is your Hunter 22 ? Any pix ?
Where to do sail / plan on sailing ?
I think I saw a pic on page 2 or 3, where there is a slot/section cut on of the inside edge of each piece of ballast a bit forward of the center of the table. How much fiberglass has to be cut out of the liner? I didn’t see a specific angle in the pics of that. I’ll be able to picture it better when I get my boat back as well.
My H22 is an 81. I live in Jackson Wyoming and sail on Jackson lake, Yellowstone lake, and Bear lake in Utah.
Al Fooks
Do you know if the swing keel was bolted to the hull using hangers lik the Catalina 22/25?
Do you know if the swing keel was bolted to the hull using hangers lik the Catalina 22/25?
IDTrucks,
Great pix of your boat...and, of course the fantastic scenery !
Mine's an '81 as well.
RE: the fiberglass liner (centerboard well cover) cutout, you make the call...
1. Remove the bilge boards and see what you have for access to the keel bolts.
2. If needed, cut only a small section to gain better (direct) hand hold access to the bolts (maybe 8-12' long), then install a removable surface mounted cover over the hand hold just created.
My salvage boat came with the ENTIRE centerboard well cover cut off (and re-fiberglassed back on from a previous job). Due to the inadequacy of the PO's repair job on the centerboard well / housing, I had to re-cut and remove the entire centerboard well fiberglass cover. This does not apply to you.
I.E., DISREGARD my previous recommendation in post #146 above: "To access the keel bolts, you need to remove the salon table, cut through the fiberglass liner at the very base of the table to remove the entire covering over the swing keel housing..."
Great pix of your boat...and, of course the fantastic scenery !
Mine's an '81 as well.
RE: the fiberglass liner (centerboard well cover) cutout, you make the call...
1. Remove the bilge boards and see what you have for access to the keel bolts.
2. If needed, cut only a small section to gain better (direct) hand hold access to the bolts (maybe 8-12' long), then install a removable surface mounted cover over the hand hold just created.
My salvage boat came with the ENTIRE centerboard well cover cut off (and re-fiberglassed back on from a previous job). Due to the inadequacy of the PO's repair job on the centerboard well / housing, I had to re-cut and remove the entire centerboard well fiberglass cover. This does not apply to you.
I.E., DISREGARD my previous recommendation in post #146 above: "To access the keel bolts, you need to remove the salon table, cut through the fiberglass liner at the very base of the table to remove the entire covering over the swing keel housing..."
Well I got the keel out, thank god my trailer is so tall, it slid right out. The amount of water that poured out when i removed the keel bolts was pretty surprising, as i thought i sponged most of the bilge. Is there a good consensus on how to re seal the bolts when it does go back on? How have the rubber washers held up? What size and shape did you use? Ive been getting some practive with the butyl tape redoing some stanchions...maybe a combination of both? Butyl tape for the bed of the bracket and the conical washers for the countersunk heads? Also im thinking of going to a hex head countersunk bolt for new keel hardware. Seems like it would lead to a better holding power and easier installation, with less chance to ruin the head.
I have another question for you
Im trying to find the right nylon paterial to make a keel bushing from. Im looking on graingers site, and i show a couple different kinds of nylon rod.
I think this one is the one to get, 11k tensile strength, 1 3/8" OD, temp range -40 to 210...
https://www.grainger.com/category/plastic-rod-stock/plastics/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c1n#nav=/category/plastic-rod-stock/plastics/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c1nZ1z0nej5
Item: 1UTW8
IDTrucks,
Wow !
I got so caught up in my own prelaunch work and launch / sailing afterwards, that I forgot to reply to you.
Boat was in the water on Father's Day, how fitting.
Sorry for such a l-o-n-g delay...
I think you MAY want / have wanted to recheck your OD for the bushing.
I bought my swing keel 1.5" OD nylon round stock from Eplastics :
https://www.eplastics.com/shapes/nylon-rod/NYLNATROD1-500
But, the OD depends on your particular installation. I replaced my centerboard and redrilled for 2" PVC with an ID of 1.5".
I'm looking to replace the PVC tube around the pivot piece that is epoxied to the centerboard with something more resilient than my present PVC pipe material. I'm thinking of trying the Delrin material for the bushing and the tube.
The rubber washers and butyl tape are working just fine this year.
How's your season coming along?
Wow !
I got so caught up in my own prelaunch work and launch / sailing afterwards, that I forgot to reply to you.
Boat was in the water on Father's Day, how fitting.
Sorry for such a l-o-n-g delay...
I think you MAY want / have wanted to recheck your OD for the bushing.
I bought my swing keel 1.5" OD nylon round stock from Eplastics :
https://www.eplastics.com/shapes/nylon-rod/NYLNATROD1-500
But, the OD depends on your particular installation. I replaced my centerboard and redrilled for 2" PVC with an ID of 1.5".
I'm looking to replace the PVC tube around the pivot piece that is epoxied to the centerboard with something more resilient than my present PVC pipe material. I'm thinking of trying the Delrin material for the bushing and the tube.
The rubber washers and butyl tape are working just fine this year.
How's your season coming along?
IDTrucks,
So what hardware did you end up installing on YOUR H22 centerboard to address your leakage issue ?
It's sailing season soon in Southern New England, so I'm about to pull off the winter tarp and get to the tasks at hand.
BUT, there is a forecast for us that MAY include a four letter word ... S N O W !!!
I hope not...March Madness is nearly over, and supposedly so was winter.
So what hardware did you end up installing on YOUR H22 centerboard to address your leakage issue ?
It's sailing season soon in Southern New England, so I'm about to pull off the winter tarp and get to the tasks at hand.
BUT, there is a forecast for us that MAY include a four letter word ... S N O W !!!
I hope not...March Madness is nearly over, and supposedly so was winter.
Hey sorry 
found myself back here. Over all, not very successful. Still more water ingress than i would want. The problem, i think, is that to get the keel bolts tight enough to keep it from moving, it compresses the washers too much, and makes them less effective. I even upped the bolt size to 5/16 from 1/4. I still think that a healthy application of butyl tape and constant tightening has worked the best for me, though its a frustrating amount. I added a low profile 650 gph whale bilge pump down there in the lowest part of the bilge by the bolts because i was tired of the bucket method. Perfect design to get almost to the lowest spot of the bilge.
The ultimate solution would be to make fiber glass shims on the top/sides of the keel that kept it perfectly in place when extended in the keel pocket, that would remove any of the stress on the bolts. But alas, i just bought a capri 25, because i wanted better racing performance, so the hunter 22 will be off to a new owner this summer.
found myself back here. Over all, not very successful. Still more water ingress than i would want. The problem, i think, is that to get the keel bolts tight enough to keep it from moving, it compresses the washers too much, and makes them less effective. I even upped the bolt size to 5/16 from 1/4. I still think that a healthy application of butyl tape and constant tightening has worked the best for me, though its a frustrating amount. I added a low profile 650 gph whale bilge pump down there in the lowest part of the bilge by the bolts because i was tired of the bucket method. Perfect design to get almost to the lowest spot of the bilge.
The ultimate solution would be to make fiber glass shims on the top/sides of the keel that kept it perfectly in place when extended in the keel pocket, that would remove any of the stress on the bolts. But alas, i just bought a capri 25, because i wanted better racing performance, so the hunter 22 will be off to a new owner this summer.
IDTrucks,
Thanks for your input.
I'm still working on the cure for this configuration.
I may have to resort to torquing the bolts in the short term, but would rather find some better choices than what I've been using for the past 13 yrs.
I like your observation that it may be the stress of the swing keel flexing the bolts / fiberglass enough to cause seepage.
Thus lending me to think that maybe building up the fiberglass base supporting these bolts in the bilge, and using longer bolts to accommodate the build up would help alleviate the water intrusion. ???
Thanks for your input.
I'm still working on the cure for this configuration.
I may have to resort to torquing the bolts in the short term, but would rather find some better choices than what I've been using for the past 13 yrs.
I like your observation that it may be the stress of the swing keel flexing the bolts / fiberglass enough to cause seepage.
Thus lending me to think that maybe building up the fiberglass base supporting these bolts in the bilge, and using longer bolts to accommodate the build up would help alleviate the water intrusion. ???
Ya, if im not sailing hard, almost no water at all. Its only when we're racing through high winds or really hammering it for a day or two that causes the bilge to start to fill up. Which, every year i make sure the keel is tight and the 4200 has oozed out of everywhere on those mounting plates...but it stil seems like it flexes enough to create a gap for the water. If the keel fit perfectly snug in the pocket and there stress was on the pocket itself, and not those mounting plates that would presumably make them work way less hard. just too small of bolts in a small pattern for the leverage of a 4' keel sticking down