Need Information on replacing rope on Hunter 23.5 swing keel

[Scubagirl62]

Can anyone direct me to where on this site someone may have posted how to change out the rope on the swing keel on a Hunter 23.5? No problems yet but it's a '96 and looks original. Would rather replace it now before the season starts than have it break during the season in the water. An ounce of prevention and all that. Tried a search of the site but wasn't finding anything. Your assistance is appreciated!

 

[caverun]

I'm trying to find a lift here to do the same on my '98 240. The best write-up is in the 260 mods section. Here is the link:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/mods.php?task=article&mid=20&aid=6224&mn=260
Crazy Dave will likely respond with some tips, or search for centerboard uphaul and you will find lots of discussion. Boat has to be lifted off the trailer to drop the centerboard and bracket. Note the location of the 2 pins for the board and roller, as they are different on the 23.5/240 and 260. Use 7/16" low stretch line, I've been told 20 ft is enough.

 

[Scubagirl62]

Wonderful! We have free access to a friend lift to do this as he owns a local marina. We will go to the link you provided.
Happy Sailing!
Thanks,
Cynthia

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

If you have a lift, make sure that the straps are tied together on the port and starboard so they cannot slip out. You will need a 1 1/8 socket and 20 feet of 7/16, NOT 1/2. You will need to tie a messenger line to the line so that you will be able to pull the new one back thru. Once you lift the boat and bolt is off, you might have to wiggle side to side to get the whole assembly down. Take a photo so you will know how to reroute the new line. You may need to have someone help you and make sure you protect the centerboard not hitting the ground. After replacing the line in the centerboard, there are two metal pins to be held in place. You can use a piece of duck tape for that which is what I taught Hunter to do. You may want to add a little 4200 not 5200 around the hole where the bolt comes thru for a seal but not much and make sure it does not squish into the bolt hole. ;;Wiggle that up into place. When replacing the bolt, only hand tighten to get it started. YOu have to be careful not to strip the threads. Once in, on top of the deck with the centerboard down, tie the block up against the organizer. Then go from ther with the rest and you should hear a klunk going up and down. Caution only use 7/16 line.

 

[Scubagirl62]

Are there any posts that show the steps, like a diagram?

 

[caverun]

This old post has a step-by-step list that I will use when I do mine. NOTE- he has the line size wrong, don't use 1/2" line, only 7/16":
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...d-uphaul-line-replacement.118859/#post-721281

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Scubagirl62]

Will do!! Thanks all!

 

[GL-WindPower]

I did this last summer on my 2001 H240. I did it while the boat was still on the trailer. I borrowed some boat jack stands from the local marina after they got all the boats in the water. I used two at the stern tied together with a chain and one at the bow just in front of the keel. I had to remove the trailer plank that the keel rest on while trailering. I jacked the boat up using the screws on the jack stands to lift the boat up off the trailer bunks about 1 foot. I needed more leverage to turn the jack handles so I used some pipes that fit over the handles. By lifting the boat and removing the center plank off the trailer I was able to drop the keel and install the new line. There are pictures of the line and pin locations attached. Pretty easy to drop once you remove the bolt, loosen the line and a little wiggle is should drop right out.

 

[Scubagirl62]

Thanks! Another great option! We really appreciate all the responses. We'll let you all know how it goes.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

I would not suggest the above as I have seen major injuries as a result thereof. Unless you know what you are doing, then that is fine, otherwise, be smart and do not hurt yourself.

A good example is launching sailboats over embankments and bridges of various sizes and that is a learned art which I will never tell anyone how I did it due to fools that would not be serious neglecting safety. Besides being a former sailboat dealer, I was also an investigator reconstructing what happened in accidents to include boats, planes, tractor trailers, underground mining accidents, major equipment and so forth which is why I have experienced so much in my life to include bailing out of a plane and being caught in a mine disaster for three days during an investigation why coal miners were killed. That was a close one as the rescue team broke thru with two hours of air left. fNow you understand why I err on the side of safety.

 

[Scubagirl62]

We have free access to a lift so that's the route we're going to take. Always better to be safe than sorry!

 

[Kermit]

We have free access to a lift...

Remember the closing scene in "Field of Dreams?" Look out your window. You'll see thousands of trailer-sailors lining up to use your free lift!

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

is the lift strap type and if so, make sure you secure the straps from side to side sos the straps will not slip off..

 

[razorbacksailor]

Regarding replacing centerboard line without a lift.

I have a 93 Hunter 23.5 that I bought last year, moved up from a Catalina 22 and a Compac16.

The boat sat in a lake for 20 years in Texas. I fixed the big splits in the rudder last year and
I have been reading a lot of posts on here about how to replace the centerboard line, and forgive me if I missed some posts but I did not read about the technique I used.

Since the CB has been drying all winter I did the removal at home, but to put it back on I went to a gentle slope boat ramp, floated the boat, then on the empty trailer added five 12' long 2x6s to each bunk, cutting them in half to account for the curve of the bunk. Using lag bolts and countersink to have the five as one unit., then lagging up underneath the original bunk, and using one inch wide 15 feet long straps to lash them and some old blankets and tshirts on top as a cushion, put trailer back in water, pull boat out, had room to attach repaired CB and new line, float boat again, remove extra bunk boards.

because I needed to repair huge split in edges of CB I did not want to get water inside. I also did not want to jack hull in spots and risk damage. So I removed all weight, rudder anchor, everything inside. I keep the boat in a 22'x30' enclosed carport with 8' sides and 12' at the peak. Rather than removing mast, I left stays attached and lashed the mast up under center frame of carport to remove that weight.
Rather than jacking the boat in spots. I usually have a 5 inch drop hitch, so I put on a 4 inch riser hitch to raise tongue. and hooked up to pickup, then using two floor jacks with the handles facing toward bow. I jacked the trailer axles 9 inches. Then I blocked boat up in 8 places, using cinder blocks, topped with foot square plank, and plywood to shim, and old tshirts to cushion. Two stacks just forward of bunks and just off center line with enough gap to slide CB forward inbetween. the two stacks right behind axles and farther from center line outside of bunks, and the other 4 stacks aft of that. Then I lowered trailer axle, and hooked up drop hitch to lower tongue.
To be extra safe I added the five extra 2x6 bunk boards on each side, lag screwed and lashed, with padding. If the boat falls, the trailer will protect me.
I removed the CB, removed the extra bunk boards, put on riser hitch to raise tongue, then jacked trailer axle to have trailer take the boat weight, removed cinder blocks, and then lower.
If I would have just been replacing the line and not fiberglassing, I would have removed CB at boat ramp after adding extra bunk boards.