Need help with refinishing deck plan

[$tingy Sailor]

Your keel definitely needs protection. It's the must vulnerable metal below the waterline, the most expensive and difficult to repair, and extreme neglect can result in the keel falling off unexpectedly. You can attach one or two directly to the keel with a through bolt but there must be metal to metal contact between the anodes, the bolt, and the keel metal for it to work.

The problem with that is it's only a matter of time before water seeps in, contacts the bare metal in the keel hole, starts corroding the keel itself, compromises the fairing and finish layers, and weakens the conductivity to the anode, no matter how well you try to seal it. That's been my experience as well as others.

But that's not the only option you have, just the traditional and simplest one. I'm with CloudDiver on the side of keeping our freshly refinished keels 100% encapsulated by installing a remote anode connected to the keel through the winch, cable, and eye bolt that is easier to maintain.

It's not a new idea and is the method recommended for fiberglass encapsulated lead keels by a popular online Catalina parts retailer. It just hasn't been done much (at all?) before with swing keel C-22s but there's no reason it wouldn't work if installed correctly.

 

[jmczzz]

keel ordeal almost over

Keel back in, just touch up skid marks and bottom edge and finish.
I haven’t been this excited since my forth divorce… yippee!
Notice the washers made from sherbet lids, (I don’t drink milk). Starboard is double port is single. I hope that still gets me a Neill Award.
I followed Stingy’s torque specs of 12lbs. that seems lite to me but he has it well backed up from the “Engineers Handbook”.
I am still concerned about where / how to attach a keel zinc. I would try the remote connect if cloud and or stingy would share the details.
I could mount a fresh water one for the summer then I can change it if I make it to the Gulf next fall.

 

[$tingy Sailor]

She's looking seaworthy now! Good job gettin' 'er done.

CloudDiver is working on the remote anode prototype now. When we get it fully installed and a little time on it to prove it's working, you can bet we'll share all the details here for others to consider for their own boats.

 

[jmczzz]

Stingy,
I am still waiting for a copy of the "proper" keel refinishing template. As it is unavailable I had to use my own judgment and get the job done. This appears to be the same case.
I need to proceed and make a decision on anode replacement. As the "new" method is unavailable I will proceed with the current method of anode mounting on the keel. Unless advised other wise in a timely manner. I must proceed so as to get my boat back in the water. This in no way is to dispute the "new" method, or denigrate its advocates.
James

 

[CloudDiver]

It will be ready very soon!

Stingy,
I am still waiting for a copy of the "proper" keel refinishing template. As it is unavailable I had to use my own judgment and get the job done. This appears to be the same case.
I need to proceed and make a decision on anode replacement. As the "new" method is unavailable I will proceed with the current method of anode mounting on the keel. Unless advised other wise in a timely manner. I must proceed so as to get my boat back in the water. This in no way is to dispute the "new" method, or denigrate its advocates.
James

 

[jmczzz]

Re: Need help with re working boat's wiring

Those neat busses that Hawk installed are what I want mine to look like. (see his post)
Here is my rough outline to how I think the wiring should go.
I will put my current 12 v deep cycle under the v berth. Run an 8 gage black wire back to the a black buss. I suppose the load black wires are to be connected to the switches black side and then the other pole of the switch connected to the black buss.
Connect a red 8 gage to the red buss and the load red wires to that buss. I don't see any fuses anywhere in the existing mess of wires so I guess I should put fuses in line in the red wires going to the loads. A new switch panel and new wire to the various loads was I installed by the P O. It has lighted switches for; running lights, anchor light, cabin lights, bilge pump, nav lights, power switch going to a lighter type plug. I will use a chart plotter / gps installed on my mate's ipad or my laptop that plug into the lighter plug. There is no bilge pump, (I think not needed cause there is no bilge, and the only thru hull is the cockpit scupper which I will put a seacock on). I may use this switch for the VHF I bought & a depth sounder. I do not have a depth sounder yet; I am deciding if a fish finder type depth sounder will work. These are new to me as my experience is all with single purpose depth sounders. The only other power circuits that may be needed are an auto pilot and the galley has an electric water pump that I may be swap out for a manual.
Everything works but the wires are a jumble of yellow screw on connectors and tape. I'll get rid of that and bundle and tie the wires together by color. I’m probably missing something here so please give me feed back so I don’t screw up.
Thanks, James

 

[hawk232]

i am a bit confused by your description as it relates to the negative side. you mention load black wires going to switches black side. load indicates a hot wire, black is typically a ground in DC so i assume you just mean the ground for the accessories? If i go on that assumption i am still confused as switches do not require a ground (unless the switches light up).

i would definitely add circuit protection to the system, either fuses or breakers. a fuse panel would be MUCH easier to run diagnositics on (while in 4 ft seas in the Keys) than inline fuses would be. you have had a lot of boats in your past so i am sure you have already given this though, but i will say it anyways. try to make the switch panel and fuse panel as easy to access as possible (and leave a little extra wire to pull these items out and work on them). boat wiring systems almost always have problems and in a couple of years when you are in the ICW as night is falling and the nav lights wont come on, you will be glad you made it easy to work on!!

 

[jmczzz]

insights & reminders

Hawk, Good insights and reminder. I have not had to undo a rat nest wiring job before as I remember but have spent time on with my head in an access hatch with a flash light trying to figure out why something didn't come on. The 80s Hunter 30 my 3rd ex got in the divorce (she was one angry b***h) was new and a couple of other boats had the benefit of pros paid when I was still working. Now that I am living the "good life" its D I Y. lol
Thanks for the review.
I'll do some homework as Stingy suggested in his blog wiring section. I do remember that there is an ABYC code now that he mentions that.
One of the benefits of living a wild and full life at 73 is being ok with admitting ignorance, forgetfulness & mistakes.
Thanks to you both for your help and patients.
James