Motor Mounts: Lanocote on bolts?

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

I am halfway through my big winter project. I have the motor sitting in the middle of the salon. The shaft has been cut and both sides are off the boat and will go to the machine shop tomorrow. And the dampener plate, oh just wait until I post photos of that one!

Now that I am starting to put stuff back together and I have a quick question: should I use Lanocote or an equivalent product on the motor mounts?

There are two sets of bolts. The bolts that attach the mounts to the boat. These I would think I would want to use Lanocote or maybe TefGel on so they don't seize.

The other set of bolts are the large bolts the motor sits on. I would think you would not want to use anything here due to the vibration. I might even want to use some blue loctite or something.

A little feedback from those who have been there and done that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jesse

 

[RichH]

Lanocote or TefGel are used with stainless steel materials to prevent 'seizing', 'galling', or 'friction welding' of stainless steel.
Motor mounts are usually not stainless steel, and the problem is usually corrosion or rusting of the threads, etc. A better product to use for such applications is NOALOX™, an anti-rust / anti corrosive .... and then overspray each season with Boeshield (a technical wax, etc.).

You can always spray paint the threads of motor mount attachments with a chrome oxide rich paint or 'fish oil' based paint such as "Rustoleum", a little harder to remove the bolts and nuts later on but better protection overall.

 

[centerline]

this also works good... a marine grade anti seize....

 

[Witzend]

They were in there for 10 years and I got all but one out and I'm sure they put nothing on them. I coated mine in lithium grease, so next time, if that ever comes, I should be in better shape.
I never completely removed my engine, just lifted it up and left it hanging. That way I did not need to disconnect the wiring, fuel lines and other hoses. The shaft came out from the inside, no need to cut that. The bulk head, heat exchanger, tranny, and bell housing were removed. RP found he could get the damper plate out without removing the bell housing. I'm glad I removed mine, it allowed me to check the runout after I mounted the new damper plate/adapter ring assembly on the flywheel.
I guessing the collar on the R&D damper you have was almost completely striped.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Industrially speaking, some form of anti-seize compound is your best bet. Loctite puts out good products and their price is reasonable.

Grease, lanolin, and other such coating compounds are good if you're sure the area is bone dry and no risk of corrosion.

If the area is wet and you've got corrosion, you want the "extreme pressure lubricants" in the anti-seize compound to make sure those corroded threads don't gall when being taken apart.

 

[valcour]

When removing mine from a 2003 310, it felt like, and looks like the first inch of the stainless steel 3/8" x 2" isolator mount bolts into the stainless mounting plate glassed in the engine bed had locktite on it. Have others use purple or blue locktite, neverseize or something similar when reinstalling? Hopefully the new Sachs damper plate will last longer.