Motor Mount Disaster

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sbonham

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May 24, 2012
9
Hunter 170 Tybee Island
Hey Hunter Owners,
Crappy July 4th this year. I rigged my Hunter 170 and put her in the water this am at 10AM. When I started her outboard and put her in FW gear at 10:15 the motor kicked hard (yes the throttle was in "start" position) and motor was hanging nearly submerged behind the boat as the area surrounding the motor mount almost completely ripped loose. SEE 5 PHOTOS of the damage.
















This is a 2006 boat (so just missed the 5 year hull warranty)... made using the now infamous ACP method. Is there a suggested (and reliable) repair for this situation??? I am considering placing a stainless plate on the underside of the boat and thru bolting at this point.

Thanks for any advice.

Steve

Steve
 
N

navigator97

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May 24, 2004
470
Hunter 33.5 Portsmouth, RI
Give Hunter marine Customer Service a call. It cant hurt. They may even do something for you since it is just slightly out of warranty.
 
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Benny17441

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May 24, 2004
7,131
CC 30 South Florida
You do not mention the HP of the motor nor its weight. Check the owners manual as there must be a weight rating for the motor mount. Do contact Hunter as they may recommend a repair procedure.
 
S

sbonham

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May 24, 2012
9
Hunter 170 Tybee Island
It's the original "standard" motor that was bundled with the 170 when I bought her new - a 3HP Toshiba four stroke - probably weighs 30-40 pounds. I have submitted an inquiry via the Hunter Customer Service website and will let everyone know what they say.
 
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sbonham

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May 24, 2012
9
Hunter 170 Tybee Island
By the way - some of you may be interested in this...
The original motor mount was replaced two months (seven sails) ago. The original was 3/16" stainless and it was noticeably bent and one of the welds was beginning to show potential for failure - so I replaced it with a 5/16" thick stainless mount - a $200 expense. It appears that the 3/16" piece was maybe designed to absorb the "kick" of putting the outboard in gear....
 
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sbonham

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May 24, 2012
9
Hunter 170 Tybee Island
And another thing - this boat has been stored indoors her entire life - in a climate controlled storage bay. NO severe temp swings... in case you were wondering.
 
N

navigator97

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May 24, 2004
470
Hunter 33.5 Portsmouth, RI
You may have better response calling Hunter rather than just waiting for a web site reply. Ask fo Customer Service.
 
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txjim

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Sep 4, 2007
154
Hunter 170 Grapevine Lake, TX
I had the same isue with my 170 and was very successful in repairing the mount. Problem is likely the plywod block embedded in the deck delaminated and the MM screws stayed attached to the upper layers which hinged over. The upper deck is plastic over 3 inches of high density foam and the MM is simply embedded in the foam. My repair involved cutting the plastic skin, fabricating a ply block with ample epoxy sealer, epoxying the block to the hull and building the area with high density expanding foam. Original skin went back on and glued using standare 170 repair methods. Much stronger than before.

I'm typing this on my phone, IM me if you would like more detail
 
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sbonham

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May 24, 2012
9
Hunter 170 Tybee Island
TxJim,

Great info Jim - and similar to what I was hoping might be possible. There didn't seem to be a way to IM you via your phone number. So - here's my contact info:: email: sbonham at georgiasouthern.edu phone: 912.481.0718

All the best,
Steve
 
David Hall22685

David Hall22685

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Dec 31, 1969
101
- - -
Motor Mount Repair

Had a similar problem. However, mine was self inflicted. The boat blew off the trailer with the motor already attached. As you can see, the wood inside was rotted. I dug it all out, cleaned it out, cut a new piece of wood and imbeded it into the hole; replaced the mount using standard gluing prodcedures for ACP. Sanded it down, painted it and it is as good as new. Let me know if you need more picts.
 

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anchorclanker

anchorclanker

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May 27, 2012
1,152
Oday 222 Beaver Lake, Arkansas
Looking at the two failed mounts, I cant believe they sold the boat with a mount attached that sub standard. In the pics where its ripped open, you can clearly see the mount is fastened to the boat with only wood screws. The wood laminate is also far too undersized for the load IMHO. It was built to fail, basically.

If Hunters only fix would be to repair it back to the same standard, I would pass and make a proper fix. After filling/epoxying the damaged area, you need to through bolt the mount through a larger backer of plywood or metal plate, something covering a much larger area than the mount. It might be a little motor, but that mount is more appropriate for a light trolling motor, and nothing larger. Your lucky you didnt lose the motor to the depths.
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,667
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
sbonham said:
Hey Hunter Owners,
Crappy July 4th this year. I rigged my Hunter 170 and put her in the water this am at 10AM. When I started her outboard and put her in FW gear at 10:15 the motor kicked hard (yes the throttle was in "start" position) and motor was hanging nearly submerged behind the boat as the area surrounding the motor mount almost completely ripped loose. SEE 5 PHOTOS of the damage.
















This is a 2006 boat (so just missed the 5 year hull warranty)... made using the now infamous ACP method. Is there a suggested (and reliable) repair for this situation??? I am considering placing a stainless plate on the underside of the boat and thru bolting at this point.

Thanks for any advice.

Steve

Steve
Click to expand


That mount should have NEVER been installed with SCREWS!!!!! It should have a substantial backing plate to distribute that load.. That installation is inexcusable......:doh:

I agree with others about calling Hunter they are good folks even if they occasionally do rather stupid stuff, like you just uncovered..
 
Phil Herring

Phil Herring

Alien
Mar 25, 1997
4,918
- - Bainbridge Island
Maybe I'm missing something but this doesn't make sense. The damage shown looks like the top of the motor was pulled aft and the prop pushed forward. Like it hung up on something while backing?
 
Rick D

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,138
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
The directional forces would be the same between putting the motor into forward gear & the scene you described unless my head is dyslexic ;-)
 
anchorclanker

anchorclanker

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May 27, 2012
1,152
Oday 222 Beaver Lake, Arkansas
I keep coming back to look at the pics, wondering if they really built something that substandard. The pictures speak for themselves, obviously.

I would be curious to know the power rating Hunter gave that mount, as it really doesn't appear adequate for anything more than a trolling motor, and perhaps not even that.

Phil, the bottom of the motor, the prop, is pushing the bottom forward, putting great twisting forces on the mount, basically pulling downward on the back of the motor, the same as you mentioned would happen backing the boat and catching the motor on something submerged.
 
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txjim

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Sep 4, 2007
154
Hunter 170 Grapevine Lake, TX
Yes, they did build the mount this poorly. Rated for 3hp but the mount still depends upon foam and plastic for structural integrity. I can attest that the repair adds great strength.
 
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sbonham

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May 24, 2012
9
Hunter 170 Tybee Island
removing/releasing rub rail

Hi HunterOwners,
I'm making a repair to the motor mount on my Hunter 170 and I'd like to pull the starboard-aft section of the rub rail loose. Has anyone here done this before? I am assuming so as one post mentioned that the rub rail is superglued on.... SO - should I just use acetone to get it to release? I'm concerned that the acetone may damage the ACP skin.

Thx for any advice

Steve
 
David Hall22685

David Hall22685

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Dec 31, 1969
101
- - -
Removing a rubrail

sbonham said:
Hi HunterOwners,
I'm making a repair to the motor mount on my Hunter 170 and I'd like to pull the starboard-aft section of the rub rail loose. Has anyone here done this before? I am assuming so as one post mentioned that the rub rail is superglued on.... SO - should I just use acetone to get it to release? I'm concerned that the acetone may damage the ACP skin.

The rub rail is one continuing piece all the way around the boat. According to Hunter, the only way to remove it was to cut it off. I tried several things and finally took a week and started cutting it off. Once off, the new one gets put in the oven to soften it and then put on (I had the help of several people) at once with massive amounts of superglue. I had to remove mine to repair the cracks on port side along with the motor mount.
Click to expand
 
S

sbonham

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May 24, 2012
9
Hunter 170 Tybee Island
Update - suggestions??

Fellow Hunter Sailors,
Okay - an update. The Hunter 170 rubrail is pretty bulletproof. I guess we should be thankful for that! :) I attempted to use acetone to get a section of the aft rail to release with NO success. So I used a cutting disk on my dremel and the remaining 5" of the deck skin was easily removed and so - the motor mount as well.

This left me easy access to the semicircle full of "high density" foam core. I discovered four things:
1. the high density foam is not very dense. It is very easily cut and quite brittle - almost like potato chips. It was very easy to remove cutting & scraping with a small pocket knife.
Video: http://youtu.be/MJVhSAW_qs0
2. the plywood chunk Hunter used beneath the motor mount is high quality plywood but only 3/4" thick (the stainless screws are 2" long) and surprisingly small - about 4" x 5.5". After using a wire brush on the bottom of the motor mount to remove the foam residue I found the plywood to be in perfect condition. I just wish Hunter has used a LARGER, THICKER piece of this stuff!!!!
3. the ACP deck skin surrounding the void had delaminated/UNbonded from the foam about 2-3" surrounding the tear. Cause? Vibration??? I don't know.... Certainly there was no moisture!
4. A BIG surprise. I expected to find nothing but foam - and be able to dig a 4" (approximated) deep void between the deck and hull skins. BUT - about 2" beneath the foam I found a fiberglass "skin" that I did not penetrate. I am assuming this is a wall between the hull foam layer (on bottom) and the deck foam layer (on top). Does anyone know if this is the case? In any case I have a much smaller area to work in than I anticipated.

I plan to "dig" a bit more (another 4" or so towards the bow - & starboard and port around the present void beneath the still intact deck skin) to increase the area of the new buildup area. I'm thinking now that I will use a stainless backing plate beneath a 3/4" piece of plywood or a layer of poured epoxy or fiberglass. Still frames from the video are below. Suggestions/advice welcome. Thx.











 
S

Saillife

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Apr 5, 2011
113
Hunter 34 Tilghman Island, Md
Looking at the video the foam looks like it's the same stuff as 'blueboard' insulation found at the big box warehouse stores. I think your plan should work.

I'd use the biggest piece of aluminum or stainless plate I could find to bury in the stern. I'd seal the entire foam area with epoxy. Epoxy in the plate with bolts attached, than use marine ply or the cell foam they use for deck lamination to fill most of the area, than glass. Going with straight epoxy or glass I would think will add a lot of weight.
Good luck
 
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