Me and outboards...

Rich Stidger · Mar 4, 2017

New fuel, new plug. Squirt of starting fluid if necessary. As of last year I am now using non-ethyol gas. And I run the gas out of the carb every night. And I add Marine version of Sta-Bil. So far, so good. YMMV.

RoyS · Mar 5, 2017

After replacing the carburetor on my snowblower one year and my outboard the next year I switched to non ethanol gasoline for all my small motor machines. So far no further problems.

thinwater · Mar 5, 2017

Brian D said:
So here we go again. Seems that I have somewhat neglected my Suzuki DF2.5 outboard. I "think" the last time I ran it was about 6 months ago. Around that time I added some Sea Foam and the motor will not start anymore. Probably added WAY TOO MUCH. LOL

So now the motor is home and I am taking it apart. First the fuel tank and fuel cock to make sure it is not clogged. Next the plug. Probably will replace that. Last if needed, the carburetor. I really do not want to mess with that bugger.

Never a dull moment.

Yes, you do want to mess with the carb. They are REALLY easy to clean. Most of the time there is not reason to take anything apart other than the remove the bowl, and no adjustments must be touched.

First, replace the gas.Small engines like that are very prone to phase separation (the ethanol separates from the gas due to a few drops of water getting in. This can come from rain if the vent is open, or simply be absorbed from the air. Rare in larger tanks, but common in 2-6 hp engines. ALWAYS close the vent when not actually running.

Remove cowling. You may have to remove the lower half, which requires removing a few screws.
Take the carb off. This is ONLY required if you cannot remove the bowl with it still on the engine. There will probably some manner of simple clip for the throttle and choke linkages. The fuel hose should just slide off.
Remove the bowl. 2 screws.
Clean the heck out of the bowl and the accessible parts of the carb (underside) with a can of spray carb cleaner. Focus on the float needle and seat and all of the small openings. Use half a can.
Put it back together.
Cut the fuel line and add a lawn mower filter in-line! VERY IMPORTANT. Why these engines don't come with a real filter escapes me. Many sailors have added these, and they really help, for just $3-4 plus clamps. Keep a few on the boat.

This is not difficult. I've done it with the dinghy on davits, though you have to be very careful no to drop anything (this is not recommended).
If you did not previously, use Seafoam (or Biobor EB or Merc Stor-&Start) all of the time. The most common cause of small engine trouble--other than phase separation--is corrosion of the aluminum bowl cause by ethanol and dissimilar metals (the fittings are all brass). The aluminum corrosion product is a fluffy bloom that just loves to clog jets. The additives listed have been tested to stop corrosion in e-10 gasoline (Practical Sailor).

walt · Mar 5, 2017

I have that same engine (Suzuki 2.5 four stroke) that I use on a Hobie TI. If I run the gas out of the carb either by running the tank out or shutting off the gas, its always hard to start the next time after it sits for a while. I pretty much have to spray some of that starter gas stuff into the carb to get it running again.

But.. if I dont run the gas out of the carb, just shut the outboard off, it starts right up the next time I use it - one or two pulls. I have seasonal use for this outboard so during that season I never run the gas dry. But Im also using the outboard at least a few times a month.

I also use Seafoam in the gas and dont think my starting issue is similar to other outboards I have owned where I did have issue with the gas (before I started using Seafoam). I dont know why.. but it seems my hard starting is completely related to running the gas dry in the carb..

uncledom · Mar 5, 2017

I don't really use my outboard motor. I have a Lehr 5.0. I know it will start every time and I don't foresee a day when I have to change the spark plug because Propane burns so clean. I like the fact that I eliminated gas on the boat, one less thing. Now I just have Diesel and Propane as always. Considering going to Diesel heat and eliminating the reverse pump aspect of the A/C. Maybe then I can get 400 pounds of generator out of the port lazarette as I can live without A/C on the hook but not heat.

BigEasy · Mar 5, 2017

Thin water,
Do you have any recommendations for the inline fuel filter used on your outboard?

Sailm8 · Mar 5, 2017

I bought a new carb when my Tohatsu started acting up. I had bought the motor used and didn't know its maintenance history. Swapped it out and soaked the old one in a gallon of carb cleaner I got from Napa. Haven't need to swap it back since I started using no ethanol gas and running it dry. I think the answer is the non ethanol gas. The rest is F'n magic.

JRacer · Mar 5, 2017

Brian D said:
Did all the work that I said I would do. It did fire up but will not stay fired up. So, off with the carb. I just don't like working on carbs. Maybe there is something I can spray in the bowl and let it work it's magic.

So, either this setup is the Marine in me (Improvise, Adapt, Overcome) or the Red Neck in me. LOL

View attachment 133831

Used to be an old boy at our club that would clear a stuck float by turning the OB upside down and dropping on it's head on the dock. Worked every time! ;-)

LeslieTroyer · Mar 5, 2017

I use the expensive gas (2 or 4 cycle). Gas in a can for all my small motors at the end of season only. Makes starting in spring easy.

RussC · Mar 5, 2017

Brian D said:
Well, I am thinking to drain all the fluids and then turn the motor upside down. Then I can fill the bowl (via the drain plug) with carburetor cleaner. That should seriously work. Or am I living in la-la land again?

What do you mean "again"?

gaskets and float valve needle (viton tipped) do not appreciate soaking in carb cleaner. it's too simple to just take the carb off the motor, remove the float bowl, spray through the jets with aerosol carb cleaner with the "straw" inserted in the nozzle, blow carb dry with air , reassemble and run. it's so easy even you could do it.

thinwater · Mar 5, 2017

BigEasy said:
Thin water,
Do you have any recommendations for the inline fuel filter used on your outboard?

I just pick them up at Advance Auto Parts. I think i is this one:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...361-P?searchTerm=gasoline+filter+small+engine

thinwater · Mar 5, 2017

Sailm8 said:
I bought a new carb when my Tohatsu started acting up. I had bought the motor used and didn't know its maintenance history. Swapped it out and soaked the old one in a gallon of carb cleaner I got from Napa. Haven't need to swap it back since I started using no ethanol gas and running it dry. I think the answer is the non ethanol gas. The rest is F'n magic.

No, the answer is an effective fuel treatment (I develop fuel testing standards, and the additives I suggested work). Yes, there is snake oil out there, but these reduce corrosion by better than 10x.

thinwater · Mar 5, 2017

Brian D said:
Well, I am thinking to drain all the fluids and then turn the motor upside down. Then I can fill the bowl (via the drain plug) with carburetor cleaner. That should seriously work. Or am I living in la-la land again?

Just take the bowl off and clean the carb. Honest, it is a 10-minute job. The typing took longer. Listen to Russ.

Kermit · Mar 5, 2017

Gunni · Mar 5, 2017

Brian, replace the carb and start a new regime of fuel management spec'd by Thinwater. Once your carb gets a corrosion virus the byproduct will find its way into the carb jets and tight fuel tolerances and be a never ending litany of trouble.

Richard19068 · Mar 5, 2017

I have a Nissan 3.5 two stroke that unfortunately sometimes goes a few months without exercise. Whenever it doesn't start by the third or fourth pull, which is rare, I remove, clean and reinstall the plug and it has then started right up. Maybe I'm just lucky, or a two stroke is different, but I'd certainly start there before messing with anything else.