MD17C rebuild

Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
I wouldn't think some milky oil would have shut down the engine. Unless there is so much water that a cylinder(s) seized from "lack of oil". Then I would think you should notice a difference on the dipstick. So, aside from a head gasket, the only places water can see oil is the water pump (as I previously discussed) or the O-rings that are in the block where the cylinders go into it. I would start with the water pump as it's the "cheapest". Then it's a matter of starting at the top. Remove one head at a time until something is evident. If you find a blown head gasket, I'd do all three. If the gaskets are fine, then you're into cylinder removal. This is such a simple engine. That's about all the places water can mix with oil. I also wonder if when you "hosed" it if you put water in a "pocket" somewhere that got dislodged with boat action away from the dock.....but I'd think that's pretty far fetched but maybe another oil change could be worth a try now that you're back at the dock....But, I wouldn't think it would be enough to shut it down. If you have the metric tools and want to spend some time with disassembly, be glad to help. If you do that, I'd talk to the mechanic and make prior arrangements if you need help with reassembly. Save $100/hr........Was there any chance of freezing over the winter? (I think you're in the lake?)
 

Jtoben

.
Jan 14, 2011
93
S2 11.0a Holland, MI
Mark, thanks again. The mechanics went over the engine, ran it at 1400 rpms under load for 1/2 hour and found no additional water in the oil. They found just a bit of water in the primary fuel filter, which we have never found before. Just after we hosed the engine and then started it up, we saw a bit of a slick behind out the exhaust, which was very unusual. The engine also always gave a rather noxious puff of smoke upon starting, which it does not do now. Also no slick out of the exhaust now. The mechanics told us to go sailing, so we are waiting for a good day with good wind, should we need to sail back into the slip. It's possible we solved the problem early on, when we found the obstruction in the Saildrive intake, and didn't do any damage by pressure flushing...keeping our fingers crossed. Again, your thoughts, and the time you have taken by posting advice are greatly appreciated. We will pass this information along to the mechanic. They are always interested in hearing from someone with your experience with these engines.
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
I capped off the saildrive inlet and moved the hose to a thru-hull. I'm not sure there's a way to clean the saildrive passage very easily. Maybe some sorta plumbers snake from the top...Then again you don't have barnacles.....
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
I capped off the saildrive inlet and moved the hose to a thru-hull. I'm not sure there's a way to clean the saildrive passage very easily. Maybe some sorta plumbers snake from the top...Then again you don't have barnacles.....
A PO had done the same on ours. We don't have barnacles but we do have zebra mussels hat find heir way not any nook and cranny.

A second odd question since our diesel guru moved. The reverse gear oil dipstick has eluded us so far. Perhaps someone replaced the MSB somewhere back when but I'm not convinced yet. The 'bolt' should be starboard aft before the sail drive connects correct? My spouse is more adept at boat yoga than I and just can't seem to locate it. From pics I've found it appears to have a cable going to it. Our shift cable connects to the saildrive so that didn't help. Can one of you give me some landmarks on what I'm looking for if I fold myself in there?
SC
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Unless you have some weird setup, there is no "reverse gear". The saildrive attaches to the engine via an adapter. The cable you refer to is, I think, the throttle cable and goes to the governor. The governor is right below the bell crank where the cable goes. The only dipsticks are the engine and the one on the saildrive....Not sure what the "MSB" is...You shouldn't have to fold yourself in there. everything from the quarterberth..
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
I do usually fold to get a better angle on what I'm doing. I'm not real skilled at boat yoga.

Anywho a question on your now rebuilt MD17c. Does it smoke at all under load once warmed up?
SC
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Hey SC. A little smoke on initial start but I'm not sure I have the injector pump rail adjusted exactly right. I also haven't found out how the automatic cold start works. But it starts right up. It gains several hundred rpms after it runs a minute. Haven't figured that one out. But it runs great with absolutely no smoke or hull deposits. Absolutley no oil burn either. Saw your other post on white smoke. Sure it's smoke?
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
I think so. It smells and steam doesn't. I'm hoping the oil filter is funky but I'm thinking injectors. It starts fight up and runs like a tank. We just get more odor in the cabin and can catch a whiff if the wind is off the stern. This pic is about 1600-1700 rpm and plenty warm.



image-4087086964.jpg



We were on about mile 50 or so on a very calm day.

SC
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Not sure how an oil filter would cause it. I would think a different color of smoke for injector issues.... Going through any oil?
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
Sorry not oil but FUEL filter in case it is running lean. A suggestion in a diesel book and it is about that time.
SC
 
Nov 12, 2012
4
Corbin 39 Pt Hardy
Done!... almost :)

Well, the only reason(s) I did it was I was pretty sure the crank/cam were good as I still had good oil pressure so I didn't have to remove the block. I did 95% of the labor myself and I found the parts which are actually pretty plentiful if you know where to look. In the beginning, I wasn't planning on replacing liners/pistons, but hey, it's a boat!!! Been running great and absolutely no oil burn. I haven't yet started it in colder weather yet since I've been repacing a water tank. But, I should see how it starts in colder WX.......Be glad to help where I can.
Hi again Mark:

Well I finally go around to it. I tore the engine down, installed a complete seal kit, removed liners and cleaned the coolant passages (rwc), etc etc etc. The important part as it relates to this post is that I also had the injectors rebuilt. All in all everything went pretty good. She's all back together and running again. Then I discovered that when under power, I can't get full power. She maxes out at 1700 rpm and about 3.8 knots (7.5 is my hull speed).
So I ended up searching the internet for ideas and low and behold, here I am again. I see you had essentially the same condition upon restart.
So I've got the governor inspection plate off and I have found that the adjustment screw assembly inside seems a little weird. There is that pin that sticks out from the end of the adjustment screw assembly and seems to be supposed to contact a lever. But the (seeming) problem is that when I throttle up, that little pin loses contact with the lever and just flops around.
So my question is, what is supposed to keep that pin in contact with the lever?

Thanks

Ron
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Ron, I don't remember your specific problem. If it ran before and it could power up through the entire range, I wouldn't go messing with the gov. The throttle actually controls the gov which in turn controls fuel flow. If you've taken the plate off, you'll see a screw with a lock nut. There are specific instructions on how to set that up which I've so far ignored because I also had the injector pump rebuilt. supposedly it went back together properly and maybe someone before me messed with it. I backed that screw out a bit which got me my upper end. All it does is limit the travel to pump rack. It's been working fine since. One of these days, I'll see how close I am to the spec. If it ran good before, I'd think I'd look for some other reasons such as a blocked exhaust etc
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
Mark, I'm curious about something. During your rebuild when you had the injectors serviced did you also install new injector sleeves? I've got my injectors on the table and it seems this would be a good choice but I'm out of my element with diesels. If I did this I'd need to order a new tool.
SC
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Hey SC,
I did not replace the sleeves as I had the heads off and the machine shop pressure tested them. I did buy three of them very early in the project since they're practically nonexistent just in case...if you're not having any coolant or compression issues, you could leave them alone...
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
Hey SC, I did not replace the sleeves as I had the heads off and the machine shop pressure tested them. I did buy three of them very early in the project since they're practically nonexistent just in case...if you're not having any coolant or compression issues, you could leave them alone...
Hmm ok thanks. I haven't gotten that deep in taking things apart. Just the injectors so far. I'm still trying to chase down my diesel smelling exhaust. I guess I need to decide if I want to pull the injectors twice or just do it. No known coolant or compression problems but I haven't had the engine compression tested either. Overall it runs great aside from the smokey diesel smelling exhaust.
SC
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Does it smoke when up to temp? If not but just smokes on start up and warming up, that's normally for that ancient engine
 
Jan 25, 2011
2,391
S2 11.0A Anacortes, WA
Hmmmm..Currently out sailing but back on sat... Looks somewhat white on an iPhone...either temp or low compression... Since u have injectors out, suggest a compression test.
 

BobM

.
Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Could it just be valve timing?
Exhaust smoke. Too much fuel without enough air, especially fuel that is injected long after the piston starts going down ... and you get excessive black exhaust smoke. It's easily possible to reach the smoke limit by going too far with modifications that add fuel. The amount of exhaust smoke is affected not only by the air/fuel ratio, but also by the timing of the END of the fuel injection period. Fuel which is injected early, and especially that which comes in within a few crank degrees after the end of the compression stroke, has more time to mix with air and burn properly than fuel which is injected late.