Mast wiring question

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,649
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
1993 C30.
47' mast is down, getting ready to install new LED Anchor and Steaming/Deck lights.
Voltage drop calculator shows I will be fine 16 gauge wire.

Should any consideration be given to strength of wire since it will be hanging 47' in the conduit within the mast?
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,401
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
It shouldn't be much of an issue. Is there some sort of strain relief on the fittings? The wires on my mast hang 55 feet without an issue. If you use 2 or 3 conducted wire, the outer sheath should help support the wire.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
Cable size should be fine. Just be sure to take the weight/strain off of the wire terminals. I think my cable clamps inside the mast near the top.
Be sure to test everything, polarity etc before stepping the mast. I swapped my separate anchor and steaming panel switches with one SPDT switch. Logic being one or the other will be on, not both. And it freed up a switch hole for the deck light switch.
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,649
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
Not sure about existing strain relief but will duplicate whatever is there now.
I'll be using 16-3 for the steaming/deck light and 16-2 for the anchor light and adhesive lined butt connectors.
The LED fixtures are not polarity sensitive so that won't be a problem. I also re wired the DC distribution panel with terminal strips for the wires coming from the loads. Then jumper wires to the switches. Easy enough to fix if I get the wiring wrong.

Actually the new wire is my back up plan.

I actually plan to take the shortcut of not replacing the wire. If I remove the lights and the existing wiring is not black or corroded, I plan to leave it in place. I would then plan on replacing all cables, DC, VHF & Wind Transducer, at a later date when I'm better prepared and not under time restraints as I am now.

I've done a lot of re wiring already, including the bilge area and engine compartment and except for some bad butt connectors I haven't come across any blackened or corroded wiring yet.

But I like to have a back up plan.

Thanks
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Ward, I have a salon overhead wood panel on my boat, next to the mast. I used just one power feed from the OEM bundle, put switches for the three lights in that wood panel. That opened up a panel ckt brkr for other use. YMMV. I can look up through the hatch in the salon and test the mast lights.
 
Oct 22, 2014
21,088
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Ward.. I used: 14awg Standard Tinned Triplex Boat Cable - Flat White, Black & Green Primary Wire Conductors to power my lights. The coverings help to support the wires and the gauge is enough to cover just about any electrical system I put up there.
 
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Bob S

.
Sep 27, 2007
1,771
Beneteau 393 New Bedford, MA
I actually plan to take the shortcut of not replacing the wire. If I remove the lights and the existing wiring is not black or corroded, I plan to leave it in place.
That's what I did on my C30. Even though Catalina wasn't using tinned wire then, I didn't find corrosion on any of the wiring except in the bilge. I replaced all the crimped connectors with adhesive one and added heat shrink tubing. The best part is you know your boat intimately if ever your trouble shooting a problem.
Just curious, I dug up an older post, did you end up with group 27 or 31 for your house. I wish I saw your post when it was posted because I fit a pair of 31's in after glassing the bottom of the battery compartment. I made some rigid strapping holding them in place so they could move in any direction. Served me seven seasons and her current owner is going on season two with the same set.
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,649
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
The mast wire is serviceable so will be using it. Will be installing MarineBeam LED Tri Color Masthead light and MarineBeam LED Combination Steaming/Deck light.

@Bob S I followed Maine Sail's suggestion and went with two GC2 6V batteries. Same foot print as Grp 24s but 230Ah. Built more durable so should have much longer life.
Using these gave me room in the battery compartment to mount ANL fuses, ACR and Neg busbar in the battery compartment.
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,649
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
Just to follow up, since I had to replace my masthead, I decided to go ahead and run all new wiring while the masthead was off.
All wires pulled through the internal conduit easily. I had also found a new square four pin trailer plug that was like the one originally used so I wouldn't have to rewire the deck side plug.
Glad I'm not color blind.
The duplex running to the mast top had black and white wires. The new duplex wire was yellow and red. All right, the mast top light had red and black wires so red to red and black to yellow.
The triplex had black, green and white wires. The steaming/deck light had white, yellow and brown wires. White was common, green was steaming and brown was deck. I guess that made sense to someone but not to me. So White to black, brown to white and green to green. (now that makes sense).
Then went to the bottom of the mast. The new trailer plug had the same four colors as the old one but thought I had better check. Sure enough, the brown and yellow wire had swapped positions. :banghead:
So plug white common to duplex yellow and triplex black commons. Old plug yellow is now brown and goes to triplex white. Old plug brown is now yellow and goes to duplex red. Now the last wire. Oh wait, this can't be right.:confused: Old plug green is new plug green and goes to triplex green to green wire on light. Boy somebody really screwed that one up.:biggrin::biggrin:

In the end I had notes on scrap wire, scrap cardboard and photos. Came home and documented the color codes just in case but sure hope I don't need to do this again.

Here's a diagram I made up to document the connections.

C30 Mast Wiring May 2018.jpg
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,401
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Just to follow up, since I had to replace my masthead, I decided to go ahead and run all new wiring while the masthead was off.
All wires pulled through the internal conduit easily. I had also found a new square four pin trailer plug that was like the one originally used so I wouldn't have to rewire the deck side plug.
Glad I'm not color blind.
The duplex running to the mast top had black and white wires. The new duplex wire was yellow and red. All right, the mast top light had red and black wires so red to red and black to yellow.
The triplex had black, green and white wires. The steaming/deck light had white, yellow and brown wires. White was common, green was steaming and brown was deck. I guess that made sense to someone but not to me. So White to black, brown to white and green to green. (now that makes sense).
Then went to the bottom of the mast. The new trailer plug had the same four colors as the old one but thought I had better check. Sure enough, the brown and yellow wire had swapped positions. :banghead:
So plug white common to duplex yellow and triplex black commons. Old plug yellow is now brown and goes to triplex white. Old plug brown is now yellow and goes to duplex red. Now the last wire. Oh wait, this can't be right.:confused: Old plug green is new plug green and goes to triplex green to green wire on light. Boy somebody really screwed that one up.:biggrin::biggrin:

In the end I had notes on scrap wire, scrap cardboard and photos. Came home and documented the color codes just in case but sure hope I don't need to do this again.

Here's a diagram I made up to document the connections.

View attachment 150701
That's enough to make a grown man cry! :sosad: And drive him to drink. :beer:
 
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Oct 22, 2014
21,088
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Welcome to the mysterious world of everyone can fix the wiring on a boat. Color is for painting.