Mast electrical

[Rltgold]

I have completely rewired my mast with a new wiring harness and deck connector from CD. Problem is I can't keep all 3 lights working. I unscrewed the top deck connector the wiring was all corroded. cleaned everything off , clipped the wires back a bit and reassembled everything. Now i've only got a steaming light. Power is getting to the wires but not to the bulbs. I am thinking there may be to much corrosion up in the wires .
Thanks for the help

 

[Leeward Rail]

I have completely rewired my mast with a new wiring harness and deck connector from CD

I am thinking there may be to much corrosion up in the wires

Your wording is unclear.
If you completely replaced the wiring harness inside the mast recently, then why would there be corrosion up in those wires ?

Break the circuit down in sections to isolate the problem.

Start by disconnecting the mast portion of the wiring from the deck plug, and use a multimeter in Ohms function to check each circuit in the mast for continuity, excessive resistance, and to confirm that it is wired correctly.
Draw a diagram that also shows the wire colours that you used, for current and future reference.

In a pinch you can also use a 12 VDC power source to fire up each bulb circuit to see if it works. I suggest doing this with a fuse in the circuit so you don't damage any wiring if there is short.

If the mast wiring works as expected, then the problem would be inside the connector, or the wiring inside the boat from the panel to the deck connector.

Wiring problems could be corrosion at the bulb sockets, connectors, or an open circuit due to broken/corroded wire or dead bulb someplace.

Easiest to check and repair with the mast down.


Just because a part is new doesn't mean it is working. Test everything to confirm that it is working.

 

[Rltgold]

Leeward thanks,
Sorry if I am not a very good writer.
6 months ago I did a complete refit of the mast wiring harness and deck plug. I did this mast down and when it was complete all 3 lights worked. Being a trailerable boat sometimes bulbs get shaken so I made up an extension cord with plug in on each end so I can check the lights before stepping the mast. 2 months ago all the lights worked.
As of about a month ago just the steaming light was working .Last week I had to lower the mast to do some other work so I was able to check the lights . The anchor light was burned out so I replaced it with an LED and it worked. I got the other 2 lights running as well then stepped the mast. I retested the lights and the Anchor and deck lights were out again. I pulled the deck plug and checked all 3 circuits with a muti meter and they are working properly. I unscrewed the cap on the top plug and found 2 issues. The wires had twisted inside the housing and one had come off. The other thing was all the wires were a very corroded green. I am an ocean sailor so this plug gets a lot of salt water on it. I cleaned all the fittings, clipped the wires back about 1/2" and found the new wire was tarnished dark grey not new tinned silver. I fit the wires back in the top plug. At that point I tested the 3 circuits again at the top of the top plug where the wires come out and all three had power coming out to the wires . Only one light was working which makes me think there maybe enough corrosion in the wire to not let the electricity flow to the lights.

 

[AaronD]

@Rltgold - I don't think you said what sort of connector you were using, but I'm guessing it might be one of the ones that looks like this one:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--two-pin-electrical-connector--181867?recordNum=26

I know they work great for some people, but I've grown to hate them. The screw connections seem designed for wire much too small for marine use. Most sources seem to recommend a minimum of 16 AWG, but that won't really fit in the wiring slots. And I've stripped more than one of the tiny set screws. So I've been rewiring my mast (again) this year. I'm trying a simple trailer plug, as recommended by @thinwater at https://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/10/best-100-chapter-11.html. Report to follow someday, I suppose, after I see how it works for me.

 

[Rltgold]

I used the black plastic one from CD which should just as bad as the one you had and the one you showed. I may have to invent something.

 

[JRacer]

I recommend using "Weather Pack" (under hood automotive) Connectors for connecting wires in a harsh wet environment. https://www.delcity.net/store/Weather-Pack-Wire-Connectors/p_797633

In my case, I eliminated the through deck wires and instead ran them up the center of the mast step where one end of the weather pack is connected, then the wires coming down the inside of the mast have the opposite connector on the end. When I raise the mast, I plug the wires together and hide it all in the inside of the mast at the base. In my case with two wire runs, at the base I used a male connector on one and a female on the other with their mates on the wires coming down the mast. In that way, the wires can never be connected to the incorrect run. The tube that the wires run up is taller than the mast step so that if water ever were to collect in the mast step, it will run over the top of the step before it can get into the wiring. The step is drilled on the sides to let water drain out.

 

[watercolors II]

As said, using a trailer wiring connector has much more surface area for electrical contact and for all they cost you can purchase plugs for both ends or make your own by using another set, this is my third season with no problems.

Soldering all connections on the boat and the trailer will extend the life also. Friend had a Hunter 34 on the Chesapeake Bay and when we went down in the spring to open up the boat it had about 4 inches of water above the floor. The factory snap on connector for the bilge pump float switch lost it’s contact.

 

[Rltgold]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.I will probably have to make something custom as well to get it up off the deck like it is now. I like how JRacer did his but I have to step my mast up and down so that wouldn't work. Probably going to do some sort of junction box up on the mast a foot or so that can discounect.