A number of folks have asked me for information about the modifications to my boat 'Zeno's Arrow' a M26X purchased in Nov. 1995 and used as a live-aboard since 1996 & for the 'Waterways of the Americas' Arctic to South America & back expedition from 1997 to 2004. As I am now in Sri Lanka & will be on shore for an extended time (the first time several years), I can now chat w/o worrying about the Iridium costs. Anyone interested in info. about the good & bad of the boat off-shore, rigging for single handed crossings, and/or the live-aboard configuration of the boat is more than welcome to write.
Macgregor 26X off-shore crossings
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Specifications.
Zeno's Arrow Specifications & modifications Sails: Genoa (3DL), Jib (Doyle), Staysail (3DL), Main (Cruising Direct-Full Batten x 5, Reefing Points x 3). Rig: Oversized Standing Rigging with turnbuckles and removiable inner-forestay. 34' Carbon-Fiber mast (salvaged from Henderson 30 stick), Carbon-Fiber spreaders (from Melges 24) 3" shorter than stock. Boom Aluminum & Carbon with rotating mandrel that allows option of reefing w/o leaving cockpit. Custom Stainless & cold mold Keel: 7'10" down, 24" up. Rudders: Carbon-Fiber w/ 3/8 Aluminum plate mounts (Carbon sleeves), Power: 2 x 6hp Nissan 4 stroke & 1 x 18 hp. Nissan 4 stroke. Inflatable/removable outriggers (18').
Zeno's Arrow Specifications & modifications Sails: Genoa (3DL), Jib (Doyle), Staysail (3DL), Main (Cruising Direct-Full Batten x 5, Reefing Points x 3). Rig: Oversized Standing Rigging with turnbuckles and removiable inner-forestay. 34' Carbon-Fiber mast (salvaged from Henderson 30 stick), Carbon-Fiber spreaders (from Melges 24) 3" shorter than stock. Boom Aluminum & Carbon with rotating mandrel that allows option of reefing w/o leaving cockpit. Custom Stainless & cold mold Keel: 7'10" down, 24" up. Rudders: Carbon-Fiber w/ 3/8 Aluminum plate mounts (Carbon sleeves), Power: 2 x 6hp Nissan 4 stroke & 1 x 18 hp. Nissan 4 stroke. Inflatable/removable outriggers (18').
On trailer
Boat raised on trailer to allow for modified keel. Note side mounts for quick inflatable outrigger installation (outriggers, 18' Aire Leopard Cataraft units); they are attached together & used as a tender w/ one 6 hp. outboard when on the hook.
Boat raised on trailer to allow for modified keel. Note side mounts for quick inflatable outrigger installation (outriggers, 18' Aire Leopard Cataraft units); they are attached together & used as a tender w/ one 6 hp. outboard when on the hook.
you must have a great attitude and seamanship
Was the keel mod to help with the lightly ballasted boat? Is it much heavier than the stock keel? Have there been any moments when you were wishing that the hulls were a little thicker? How far offshore were you comfortable with? Awesome to hear about someone exploring on the Macgregor! I've sailed a good bit along the coast Florida's panhandle, and am amazed that I can dock up to a restaraunt/bar in SALT water, and have some sailors call the Mac a "lake boat" (happened to me at pirates cove, near Pensacola). Congrat's on your safe travels. Fair winds, Richard
Was the keel mod to help with the lightly ballasted boat? Is it much heavier than the stock keel? Have there been any moments when you were wishing that the hulls were a little thicker? How far offshore were you comfortable with? Awesome to hear about someone exploring on the Macgregor! I've sailed a good bit along the coast Florida's panhandle, and am amazed that I can dock up to a restaraunt/bar in SALT water, and have some sailors call the Mac a "lake boat" (happened to me at pirates cove, near Pensacola). Congrat's on your safe travels. Fair winds, Richard
SUGGESTION....
MADDMIKE...sure would be great to set up a site where we MAC owners could...view sailing & travel PICs...and hear more about such ADVENTURES with a MAC X. It would be VERY INTERESTING ! SO many restrict the MAC-X, but as you prove...proper modifications, sailing ability, and experience PROVE the MAC to be a QUALITY BOAT...AGREE ??
MADDMIKE...sure would be great to set up a site where we MAC owners could...view sailing & travel PICs...and hear more about such ADVENTURES with a MAC X. It would be VERY INTERESTING ! SO many restrict the MAC-X, but as you prove...proper modifications, sailing ability, and experience PROVE the MAC to be a QUALITY BOAT...AGREE ??
question on Zeno's Arrow keel
Basically the Keel was modified for the following reasons; (1) The stock keel can not take a heavy off-shore passage and will eventually fail. Although the good news is that even when this happens you just turn around and go to the closest place downwind. No worry about going bottom side up as the keel is not part of the ballast system. Trying to power upwind in any sea state, even for a short distance (meaning over 20 miles)is not practical and can not be done on autopilot. This happened to me in the Anagada Passage 14 miles West of St. Martin when I hit something(who knows what) at night and it took the keel off. I had to turn around and jib sail to Virgin Gorda. (2) The stock keel does not let the boat point very well. I replaced the stock keel at Independent boatyard on St. Thomas and as a test tacked upwind through the narrows between St. John & Tortola (usually took the boat 14 tacks to get around to Coral Bay). With the new keel I was routinely able to cut this to 7-9 tacks. (3) While on a sea-anchor (I use a 9' paratech unit to ride out storms at sea) with the stock keel the boat sailed heavely through the wind (up to 30 degrees), on the new keed the boat stays directly to windward with out any 'sailing'. This has been done n two serious storms, one of which had gusts of up to 70 knots for 4 hrs. The new keel w/o the 'rotating wing' I use for ballast (even with two stainless steel shafts inclosed inside) actually has negative ballast. The wing on the keel is about 100 lbs. More later.
Basically the Keel was modified for the following reasons; (1) The stock keel can not take a heavy off-shore passage and will eventually fail. Although the good news is that even when this happens you just turn around and go to the closest place downwind. No worry about going bottom side up as the keel is not part of the ballast system. Trying to power upwind in any sea state, even for a short distance (meaning over 20 miles)is not practical and can not be done on autopilot. This happened to me in the Anagada Passage 14 miles West of St. Martin when I hit something(who knows what) at night and it took the keel off. I had to turn around and jib sail to Virgin Gorda. (2) The stock keel does not let the boat point very well. I replaced the stock keel at Independent boatyard on St. Thomas and as a test tacked upwind through the narrows between St. John & Tortola (usually took the boat 14 tacks to get around to Coral Bay). With the new keel I was routinely able to cut this to 7-9 tacks. (3) While on a sea-anchor (I use a 9' paratech unit to ride out storms at sea) with the stock keel the boat sailed heavely through the wind (up to 30 degrees), on the new keed the boat stays directly to windward with out any 'sailing'. This has been done n two serious storms, one of which had gusts of up to 70 knots for 4 hrs. The new keel w/o the 'rotating wing' I use for ballast (even with two stainless steel shafts inclosed inside) actually has negative ballast. The wing on the keel is about 100 lbs. More later.
Exploring with Mac website
Actually, I had a site for several years (1996-2003) called 'Waterways of the Americas' where I had school kids stand 'watch' via the internet & did chats back & forth between schools visited in route, kind of fun getting Eskimo kids chatting with Carib kids etc. I believe some of the site might be acc archived (google search)?
Actually, I had a site for several years (1996-2003) called 'Waterways of the Americas' where I had school kids stand 'watch' via the internet & did chats back & forth between schools visited in route, kind of fun getting Eskimo kids chatting with Carib kids etc. I believe some of the site might be acc archived (google search)?
Outrigger Do?
Hi MadMike, What does the outrigger do? Do you have one for both sides? How much space does it take to store? My hat is off to you. You have done some remarkable remodeling and you must be living the good life. My dream life through MadMike. Keep the informaiton coming and I would like to see a picture of the keel. Thanks, Tom Wieken
Hi MadMike, What does the outrigger do? Do you have one for both sides? How much space does it take to store? My hat is off to you. You have done some remarkable remodeling and you must be living the good life. My dream life through MadMike. Keep the informaiton coming and I would like to see a picture of the keel. Thanks, Tom Wieken
Outrigger Experiment
At this point the outriggers are still something of an experiment and were intended to be used for the following purposes; Outrigger specifications: 2 x Stock 18' x 26" Dia. Aire Leopard (whitewater) Hyperlon Cataraft tubes. Best photo's of the tubes can be found on the Aire website Idaho-USA,(under Leopard Cataraft). The units are attached each side by quick release plates simular to those used for heavy aux. 4 stroke outboards. There are Carbon support braces inside/outside that attach to articulating arms that use off-road shocks. Thus, between the air filled tubes & shocks, the units are able to withstand a great deal of pounding without transfering the loads directly to the hull. The origional purpose was to use the outriggers to help stabilize the boat when running downwind under a large 'kiteboard' wing without the water ballast. The wing is launched by lowering the sails, releasing the forestay pulling it back to the mast & using the inner-forestay to keep the mast up. This allows for a very practical bow launch & recovery of the wing (most of the time-control lines are still a major problem). The only run made with this set-up so far was Luperon D.R. to Jacksonville, Fl. (via the Turks Passage)in July 2004. While it was mostly successful I can't honestly say it is yet very practical. The outriggers are also used on river trips where they are very helpful when crossing strong eddy lines. They are stored when not in use in a 8' Walker Bay that is on Davits & covered so it does not fill with rainwater during squalls. However, I have to say the most practical use is for swimming on/off while on the hook, using as a tender, & keeping the boat from rocking heavy in wakes at busy anchorages. They also, keep fishermen & others in remote places from rafting up to you without fenders.
At this point the outriggers are still something of an experiment and were intended to be used for the following purposes; Outrigger specifications: 2 x Stock 18' x 26" Dia. Aire Leopard (whitewater) Hyperlon Cataraft tubes. Best photo's of the tubes can be found on the Aire website Idaho-USA,(under Leopard Cataraft). The units are attached each side by quick release plates simular to those used for heavy aux. 4 stroke outboards. There are Carbon support braces inside/outside that attach to articulating arms that use off-road shocks. Thus, between the air filled tubes & shocks, the units are able to withstand a great deal of pounding without transfering the loads directly to the hull. The origional purpose was to use the outriggers to help stabilize the boat when running downwind under a large 'kiteboard' wing without the water ballast. The wing is launched by lowering the sails, releasing the forestay pulling it back to the mast & using the inner-forestay to keep the mast up. This allows for a very practical bow launch & recovery of the wing (most of the time-control lines are still a major problem). The only run made with this set-up so far was Luperon D.R. to Jacksonville, Fl. (via the Turks Passage)in July 2004. While it was mostly successful I can't honestly say it is yet very practical. The outriggers are also used on river trips where they are very helpful when crossing strong eddy lines. They are stored when not in use in a 8' Walker Bay that is on Davits & covered so it does not fill with rainwater during squalls. However, I have to say the most practical use is for swimming on/off while on the hook, using as a tender, & keeping the boat from rocking heavy in wakes at busy anchorages. They also, keep fishermen & others in remote places from rafting up to you without fenders.
E
Eric
Keel or CB Modifications
I read with great interest the results of changing the keel (centerboard) or your 26X. I have an M19 (it has a similar design to the 26X)with a damaged centerboard and have been wondering if there wasn't some alternative would give better performance than the original CB. Can you give a more detailed description of your replacement board and possibly a photo? What would you suggest as a relatively easy to build alternative CB? I was thinking of possibly an aluminum plate with some lead weight at the lower end, and possibly narrowing the opening for the board into the hull, but realize I have little experience to judge what would be a good design. So any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
I read with great interest the results of changing the keel (centerboard) or your 26X. I have an M19 (it has a similar design to the 26X)with a damaged centerboard and have been wondering if there wasn't some alternative would give better performance than the original CB. Can you give a more detailed description of your replacement board and possibly a photo? What would you suggest as a relatively easy to build alternative CB? I was thinking of possibly an aluminum plate with some lead weight at the lower end, and possibly narrowing the opening for the board into the hull, but realize I have little experience to judge what would be a good design. So any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
Per request, keel modification info.
Not sure who this will relate to your boat/situation, but here is what I did. The centerboard is basically a cold mold unit that was shaped from a single 8' x 3/4" marine plywood sheet which was cut in half lengthwise. The two 4' x 6' sections were then identically shaped with a jig saw and the resulting centerboard came out 7'10" x 24" x 1.5" thick. There is a dog-leg in the design 5' 10" down from the head of the board, this is where the new centerboard extends beyond where the origional centerboard stopped. Thus, for 5'10" the board is 24" W and the remaining 2'that extends to where the origional water ballast intake was, is 15"W. Both sides of the new board were then routed out and 7' stainless steel drive shafts (salvaged from a 33' Sunseeker that unsuccessfully tried to cut across the Beef Island reef near Tortola) were placed inside. The two boards were then glued together and covered with glass & come Carbon-Fiber. Two holes were drilled through the bottom of the board, one for the uphaul line & one for the ballast wing (which 'free floats) so it can remain at a proper attitude as the centerboard is raised and lowered. Inside the centerboard 'slot' was reinforced with aluminum and a stainless steel 'U' housing (not sure what the actual name for this opart is). The result is that even with the board up, it now extends 15" below the bottom (thus, the boat does have a 'Keel"'. I will try to post some photos, but it might take a couple of days as all my shots of the boat out of the water are not here with me in Sri Lanka.
Not sure who this will relate to your boat/situation, but here is what I did. The centerboard is basically a cold mold unit that was shaped from a single 8' x 3/4" marine plywood sheet which was cut in half lengthwise. The two 4' x 6' sections were then identically shaped with a jig saw and the resulting centerboard came out 7'10" x 24" x 1.5" thick. There is a dog-leg in the design 5' 10" down from the head of the board, this is where the new centerboard extends beyond where the origional centerboard stopped. Thus, for 5'10" the board is 24" W and the remaining 2'that extends to where the origional water ballast intake was, is 15"W. Both sides of the new board were then routed out and 7' stainless steel drive shafts (salvaged from a 33' Sunseeker that unsuccessfully tried to cut across the Beef Island reef near Tortola) were placed inside. The two boards were then glued together and covered with glass & come Carbon-Fiber. Two holes were drilled through the bottom of the board, one for the uphaul line & one for the ballast wing (which 'free floats) so it can remain at a proper attitude as the centerboard is raised and lowered. Inside the centerboard 'slot' was reinforced with aluminum and a stainless steel 'U' housing (not sure what the actual name for this opart is). The result is that even with the board up, it now extends 15" below the bottom (thus, the boat does have a 'Keel"'. I will try to post some photos, but it might take a couple of days as all my shots of the boat out of the water are not here with me in Sri Lanka.
E
Eric
Keel Design
Thanks for your detailed description. I'm not quite sure I understood what you meant by the ballast wing. Is that the 15" wide extension that hangs below the boat, and is attached to the main part of the board so that it can pivot? And the lines attached to the bottom of the board - do they both come up through the mast compression post or is there some other arrangement for getting them up on deck?
Thanks for your detailed description. I'm not quite sure I understood what you meant by the ballast wing. Is that the 15" wide extension that hangs below the boat, and is attached to the main part of the board so that it can pivot? And the lines attached to the bottom of the board - do they both come up through the mast compression post or is there some other arrangement for getting them up on deck?
Clarification on 'Ballast Wing'
Centerboard retraction is done exactly the same as on a stock boat, the only difference is I use spectra line and have added harken blocks at all friction points such as the 90 degree bend where the line exits by the mast step. The 'wing' is add on ballast (nothing else) used so that the centerboard will 'sink' because even with the stainless steel inner support shafts the centerboard will float without added ballast & thus will not drop. Think of the wing as being exactly the same as any boat having a fixed wing keel. The difference is that my 'wing' has to rotate as the centerboard is lowered, otherwise if it did not it would end up vertical to the flow of water and create drag. Thus, my wing is attached with a stainless steel shaft through the centerboard that allows the flow of water to force it into the proper position (attitude)i.e. horizontal realitive to direction, no matter if the centerboard is up or down, it self positions. Basically, it rotates on it's own. I should have some photos via e-mail in a couple of days and will post them ASAP (a picture is worth a thousand words). Hope this helps, Cheers Maddmike.
Centerboard retraction is done exactly the same as on a stock boat, the only difference is I use spectra line and have added harken blocks at all friction points such as the 90 degree bend where the line exits by the mast step. The 'wing' is add on ballast (nothing else) used so that the centerboard will 'sink' because even with the stainless steel inner support shafts the centerboard will float without added ballast & thus will not drop. Think of the wing as being exactly the same as any boat having a fixed wing keel. The difference is that my 'wing' has to rotate as the centerboard is lowered, otherwise if it did not it would end up vertical to the flow of water and create drag. Thus, my wing is attached with a stainless steel shaft through the centerboard that allows the flow of water to force it into the proper position (attitude)i.e. horizontal realitive to direction, no matter if the centerboard is up or down, it self positions. Basically, it rotates on it's own. I should have some photos via e-mail in a couple of days and will post them ASAP (a picture is worth a thousand words). Hope this helps, Cheers Maddmike.
G
Graham Carr
MacGreagor sailing site
Louis Holub I was going to send this to Mike but it applies to all that read this, your welcome to join, it's a great site! Hi, my name Is Graham Carr and I am a fellow MacGregor owner. I have a 2002 26X. I would like to invite you to join our website. www.macgregorsailors.com is the site and we currently have 1047 members from around the world. The majority are from the states. All of the members are Mac owners and they cover just about every model made. Your experiences and knowledge would be a great addition. We have a modification section were you could post your mods. Check the site out and let me know if you would be interested, or just sign-up. There are no fees at all. Graham Carr PS: I have enjoyed the information that I have been able to find on your travels. I would love to chat with you on the North America river system.
Louis Holub I was going to send this to Mike but it applies to all that read this, your welcome to join, it's a great site! Hi, my name Is Graham Carr and I am a fellow MacGregor owner. I have a 2002 26X. I would like to invite you to join our website. www.macgregorsailors.com is the site and we currently have 1047 members from around the world. The majority are from the states. All of the members are Mac owners and they cover just about every model made. Your experiences and knowledge would be a great addition. We have a modification section were you could post your mods. Check the site out and let me know if you would be interested, or just sign-up. There are no fees at all. Graham Carr PS: I have enjoyed the information that I have been able to find on your travels. I would love to chat with you on the North America river system.
J
James V
How to contact you
I whould like to know more on you and your mods and the reason for each as I am sure more than me would. What mods are needed for an extended stay and cruise and why (i am sure that the why would create more of a debate than the mod)
I whould like to know more on you and your mods and the reason for each as I am sure more than me would. What mods are needed for an extended stay and cruise and why (i am sure that the why would create more of a debate than the mod)
E
Eric
Zeno's Arrow Mods
Thanks Mike. I have already been reading with interest your posts there as well as here.
Thanks Mike. I have already been reading with interest your posts there as well as here.
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