M-18 stall

Apr 13, 2007
142
Catalina 27 TR Lorain, Ohio
I have a Universal M-18 in my 30 year old Catalina 27 TR. This is my 4th season with the boat. The engine ran flawlessly until last Sept. One day we were out sailing and I reached to turn off the engine and it quite all by itself. Not good. I couldn’t restart a few hours later so we were fortunate enough to have just the right winds to sail up the river, turn into the river and stop at our dock. It actually looked like I knew what I was doing.

The rest of the season, until the end of October, I had sporadic starting problems. I could easily restart once I bled the fuel line using the bleed valve on the engine. Over the winter layup I did a lot of internet research on the problem. So in the spring I replaced all of the 30 year old fuel hose, re-routed it to a more direct and shorter length. Changed the Racor 2 micro filter to a 10, changed the engine filter, all fresh fuel in the tank and a new electric fuel pump. When I changed out the fuel lines, I found some of it to be ¼ inch but most 3/8 ID. I even found 3/8 crimped down to a ¼ fitting. Now, everything is ¼ which still give more flow than required for this fuel sipper engine. All new clamps, doubled into the ¼ barb x 1/8 npt fittings.

My reseach indicated that my fuel pump was probably going out because it had to suck the fuel through a 2 micron filter. The old round Facet pump was probably 24” lift at 8 GPH and 6 PSI. My new Facet Pro block is 4-7 PSI with 60” lift and 30GPH. The new hose route in somewhat shorter than before but pulls from the tank up to the Racor filter about 12” above the tank (same as before) forward to the pump about 6” above the Racor about 2 ft. (same at before) and then to the engine’s second filter.

This all worked great and up until a few weeks ago. Engine would start and stall. Bleed the line and its fine, for a while. This past week we were on a trip when the wind died. We motored for about 2 hours without a problem, when the engine started to loose RPMs and finally stop. Bleeding restarted the engine but only for a few minutes and the same thing happened. The wind came up a little so we sailed for about 20 minutes. The temp gauge indicated everything was fine but… We started the iron genny again and it was OK. The next day was windless and we again motored flawlessly for about 2 hours and the same thing happened. Several time of this past week we can run the engine fine for anywhere from 10 minutes to hours and restart with a line bleed. I have re tightened all of the clamps, Racor looks good and no water in the separator in the bottom.

I did notice the bleed valve leeks a bit of fuel on my fingers when I open it, but that is new. I even tried leaving the bleed valve open just a bit and the engine started OK and ran for about 20 minutes.

The PO left me many spare parts including a new bleed valve. I did some more research and maybe my increased lift on the fuel pump is collapsing the tank hose? All of the new hose is brand name A1 fuel hose with a liner and reinforced rubber cover. It would take a lot to crush this hose. The one in the tank is original and thin. But why would it not crush immediately? Why wait so long to narrow? Leaky bleed valve? But why would it run when I leave it open a bit?

Sorry for the long ramble but I put in as much detail to avoid pointing out to advisors “been there, done that”.
 

weinie

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Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
Did you replace the fuel hose in the tank... the one with the clogged mesh screen at the tip?
 
Oct 9, 2008
1,739
Bristol 29.9 Dana Point
2 mic is fine on this motor. Maybe not on others, but this motor only uses about 3/4 an ounce of fuel a minute. Through that relatively giant Racor 500 surface area. You just need to keep the filter clean.

It sounds like you're getting air, not a restriction. Might be inside the tank. Might be a cracked Racor housing. Not much else to look at that you haven't already. If bleeding helps then I'm not suspicious of the injector pump, unless you're bleeding at the injectors. --- were you bleeding on top/stbd side of the motor, or at the secondary filter on the motor?
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,892
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Verified that the tank vent is clear and the hose is not plugged? A way to check would be to open the fill cap after a stall .. then see if it would start ..
 
Apr 13, 2007
142
Catalina 27 TR Lorain, Ohio
Yesterday is unplugged the return line and I did get bubbles. I also took out the pickup line and the screen was clean. I couldn't get it out but I did pry it open on the side. Tank looks pretty clean. I doubt the vent is the problem. always starts after I opened the bypass valve located on the injector pump. Sometime will run for hours, sometimes only a few minutes.
One thing I have noticed. The old pump would stop making noise after a bit. I assumed because it had build up pressure. This new pump runs all the time the ignition switch is on no matter what the engine speed is. It did this even when everything was running fine and still does.
I was thinking of bypassing the Racor filter to see if that is the culprit. When I did the hose changes I had to change the barb fittings on the filter so I took it out it make this change easier. I applied thread sealant (not teflon tape big no-no anywhere on a fuel system) cleaned it all up and didn't see any cracks etc.
 
Oct 9, 2008
1,739
Bristol 29.9 Dana Point
Yesterday is unplugged the return line and I did get bubbles. I also took out the pickup line and the screen was clean. I couldn't get it out but I did pry it open on the side. Tank looks pretty clean. I doubt the vent is the problem. always starts after I opened the bypass valve located on the injector pump. Sometime will run for hours, sometimes only a few minutes.
One thing I have noticed. The old pump would stop making noise after a bit. I assumed because it had build up pressure. This new pump runs all the time the ignition switch is on no matter what the engine speed is. It did this even when everything was running fine and still does.
I was thinking of bypassing the Racor filter to see if that is the culprit. When I did the hose changes I had to change the barb fittings on the filter so I took it out it make this change easier. I applied thread sealant (not teflon tape big no-no anywhere on a fuel system) cleaned it all up and didn't see any cracks etc.
If the housing were cracked at a fitting you might see leaking fuel, but since at that point in the circuit the fuel is not under pressure, you may not. But check for weeps anyway.
Does the pump actually run or just make a clicking noise? If it's running then I'm highly suspicious that air is entering before the pump. That leaves only the Racor, the fuel line, and inside the tank. Verify that the Racor is between the tank and the pump, otherwise you can rule that out. ---and reroute it to be correct later ;-)
If there are any hoses not yet replaced, bend them to check for cracking. Or just replace.
 
Last edited:
Apr 13, 2007
142
Catalina 27 TR Lorain, Ohio
Racor is on suction side absolutely no doubt. All hose new except inside tank. I still have the original fuel shutoff at the tank. Since I never close this potential leak source, I was thinking of replacing it with a nipple. If it's still sucking air move to the line inside the tank. Maybe replace with a piece of metal tubing.
 
Apr 13, 2007
142
Catalina 27 TR Lorain, Ohio
Success. I remove the tank line again and removed the clean screen. No blockage at all. I blew through the tank vent. No blockage. Only thing left was the tank shutoff petcock which I never close. I replaced with a brass pipe nipple. Now everything seems fine (knocking on wood at I type this with one hand). Thank you all for your advise.
 
Oct 9, 2008
1,739
Bristol 29.9 Dana Point
Success. I remove the tank line again and removed the clean screen. No blockage at all. I blew through the tank vent. No blockage. Only thing left was the tank shutoff petcock which I never close. I replaced with a brass pipe nipple. Now everything seems fine (knocking on wood at I type this with one hand). Thank you all for your advise.
Fantastic!
As long as you have a fuel shutoff somewhere. Preferably where it enters the Racor. You'll need this when changing the filter with a full tank, or as an emergency shutoff should there be a fire or sudden leak.
With a full tank, gravity may feed the circuit without the pump.
 
Apr 13, 2007
142
Catalina 27 TR Lorain, Ohio
The tank is the lowest part of the fuel system. If the tank ever gets above the rest of the system, I have much more pressing issues.