Looking to buy a Venture 222

THECUSCUS · May 20, 2011

Check the keel good. Those early ones are the steel plates, encased in fiberglass and are very prone to "rust expansion" (they swell, crack and get stuck in the keel trunk). The interior is the easiest part of the boat to fix up, don't let it stop you! It looks like a pretty good deal.

Freedom77 · May 20, 2011

Ditto what thecucus says: Traveler is a plus. We had our 222 for five years and loved it. Interior is easy and you can use your imagination and skills to fix it up. I built all the interior out of mahagony plywood. Fair Winds and Full Sails...

ChockFullOnuts222 · May 20, 2011

Yes, if the keel is in good shape, then that is a really decent buy. Especially with a new mainsail and a Johnson 9.9.

I've got a 1972 V222 (same as the '71) and love it. It's a tough little boat that is both fun and forgiving. I like the motor well that these early 222's have in the transom---no worries about motor mounts going flimsy or flexing the transom.

Faris · May 20, 2011

I second (or third) all comments so far. I have one more thing to throw out there. Figure on a couple hundred dollars for title/registration fees (though your area may be wildly +/-). Assume that it'll take $500 to bring it up to sailable standards (accounting for a bunch of little things you didn't notice when you test drove), and assume another $1000 to fix all of the things (cosmetic and otherwise) that bother you. That's about $1500 + $1700 = $3200.

That's the number you should be willing to spend to get the boat you want in the end. You may be able to do it for less, but don't plan on it. Probably only the first $2000 are immediate, the rest can probably wait.

I'm definitely not saying you shouldn't buy it if you don't have $3k to spend, but you should think about those $500 for fees and immediate fixes as part of the cost.

Absolutely, though, check thy keel. Others were not kidding about this. It is a costly repair and not optional. Not necessarily a deal-breaker if you have to do it, but something you really need to think about.

I hope this works out for you. They're really pretty fun boats. Keep us posted.

MrBill_FLL · May 20, 2011

IMHO: the v222 is one of the nicest models of smaller sailboats.

As others said, the keel is the weak point on these boats, you'll need to splash it and see if the pivot point is good, and not oblong and the keel is not splitting.

a bad keel would be a deal breaker for me... everything else is easy or cheap to fix.

2nd concern would be the trailer... amazing what a decent trailer costs these days...

Freedom77 · May 20, 2011

Faris is correct: A boat is a hole in the water into which you pour money. I repaired the keel on my 222 myself. Mostly labor removing and recovering. Also check the deck under the mast step and make sure the interior mast post is strong. Once you set up intitally you'll find all sorts of little geegaws that you absolutely have to have. Welcome to the Legion of the Damned

Fair Winds and Full Sails.

dkdoyle · May 20, 2011

Great boat. Go for it

rgranger · May 23, 2011

That is a good deal. Especially with the O.B. Does the main have reef points? And how many head sails do you have (or is the one on a roller?).

The V222 can take on some heavy air if you have the ability to balance your sails. A main with reefs is a must and if this one is coming with only a genoa then you will also need to budget for a smaller (50%) jib.

Smithy · May 23, 2011

The venture boom is, as far as I can tell, a roller-reefing setup - no reef points in the sail... you ease the halyard, roll up the bottom a bit and lock the boom, then tension again. Won't work with a vang or mid-boom maiinsheet mod, though.

Freedom77 · May 24, 2011

Smithy said:
The venture boom is, as far as I can tell, a roller-reefing setup - no reef points in the sail... you ease the halyard, roll up the bottom a bit and lock the boom, then tension again. Won't work with a vang or mid-boom maiinsheet mod, though.

I found the roller reefing to be a PIA. I spent a couple of sheckels and had double reef points put in the main. By the time you need to reef the main it's almost too late. It was worth it. Also it you don't have a 150% genoa get one, you'll be amazed at the performance difference. I used to beat boats that I wasn't supposed to beat. Also had a chute. Fair Winds and Full Sails....

Faris · May 24, 2011

Congratulations! It looks like you made a good deal. A little elbow grease and she'll be good to go. Enjoy!

Smithy · May 24, 2011

Looks like a lot less work than mine, which was a steal up front, but more than $1500 into it since. Well done sir.

rgranger · May 25, 2011

Dude! You stole that boat.

Great Deal! That is the best shape of any boat I've ever purchased and I've had 6 in the last 10 years.

If you have a pressure washer and a wet vac. don't be afraid to just go in with one in each hand. That is how I've cleaned out the insides of my "new-2-me" boats. Then some bleach or white vinegar or ammonia in a spray bottle with a roll of paper towels (but don't mix these chemicals, just choose one) and you will have the interior smelling nice in no time.

What condition is your flotation foam? Usually with a boat this old it has started to crumble and makes a huge mess. I've found the pink 3" foam boards sold at Home Depot make good replacement foam.

Good luck and enjoy!

Robspan · May 25, 2011

IMO, you want some airflow through the cabin. My former boat would get mildew from condensation caused by temperature differences between the outside and inside, especially in the morning.

My 26S has the same type of gap in the main hatch. That, along with a piece of rubber in the forward hatch cover to create a gap when it's closed, allows some breeze to blow through. That cuts down the condensation/mildew.

I also jam some insect screen in there to keep the mud daubers from setting up house in the cabin. It works pretty well, without the need for solar ventilators, etc.

Smithy · May 25, 2011

I had to smoke out the daubers trying to make camp in mine. I plan on making a new hatch with screened louvers, but tight edges, for long-term use.

Faris · May 25, 2011

The hatch doesn't really fit snugly. If the hatch came up much higher, you couldn't get the top closed. Mine takes a good hard tug to pull the top closed over the hatch.

As for cleaning, go pick up a bottle or two of Mold Armor (sold everywhere). Remove wood and vinyl from the cabin, open up all possible ventilation, and just spray anything that isn't smooth (that's most of the ceiling). If you have padding on the ceiling you'll have to decide how to work around or replace it. Be careful not to breath in the fumes when working in tight spaces. After spraying everything, walk away for 10-15 minutes, then come back with the hose and spray out the interior. You'll be amazed.

Next, come back with a bottle of Wisk, a bucket of warm water, a big sponge, and a soft brush. Do your worst with that and rinse with the hose. Now you'll be able to identify the tough spots. If your boat it like mine, you've got perma-dirt ground into the gelcoat on the interior. An acetone-soaked rag helps quite a bit with much of that.

As for paint, there is nothing special about boat paint (on the interior). It's all about the prep work and cure time. I would definitely clean all smooth surfaces to be painted with acetone because you don't know what is on the surface (wax, etc.) You may find after cleaning that you don't need to paint, but you may still want to. Just take the extra day or two to get the prep work done right and you won't have to revisit the project at the end of the season.

I'm painting the ceiling of the interior in my boat, but am trying to decide on something to do with the smooth surfaces that won't just get scuffed up after a season or two. I'm pretty hard on stuff.