Lewmar Windlass Power

[budcurtis]

I have a 2001 361 Beneteau and I'm sad to say I never tested the windlass in the last four years I have owned her. We are now planning on going up the ICW and anchoring will be required. It appears totally dead after hooking up the Lewmar switch to the plug in the bow anchor locker. Pressing UP or DOWN doesn't have any effect. Is there a switch on the Lewmar windlass? I didn't see it mentioned in the directions.

I went to the panel in the stern cabin behind the engine and tested the fuse. It appears to be engaged. When I press on the fuse's red button a black arm swings down on the other side of the fuse. When I push that arm back up the fuse appears to be engaged. Obviously, I have never done this before so please be patient.

With the fuse engaged there still is no action from the control unit's UP/DOWN buttons attached to the bow anchor locker plug. Is there another power switch I need to be aware of before I start tracing the source of the power problem? Do you have any suggestions on where to look first? My guess is the anchor has never been dropped by the previous owner, since she only day sailed and kept the boat at a marina slip.

 

[Rick I]

Some Beneteau windlasses will not work unless the engine is running. Was your engine on when you tried the windlass out?

 

[budcurtis]

Some Beneteau windlasses will not work unless the engine is running. Was your engine on when you tried the windlass out?

No, I can certainly give that a quick try. Thank you for the suggestion.

 

[mattkling]

Confirming engine needs to be running on 361

I have a 2000 361 and you do have to have the engine on to use the windlass. Hopefully this will be a quick fix!

 

[DJBrookster]

Have 2006 Bene 323, the windlass will not work without the engine running. But do check the breaker which can trip under load.

 

[BigEasy]

Bud,
I recently installed a Lewmar V2 windlass in my boat. In addition to checking that the engine is running and that the 90 amp breaker at the battery switches is functional, note that there is a small inline fuse for the hand held remote circuit. The fuse is located inside the windlass motor compartment that is located in the forepeak of the forward V berth. In my boat, there is a wood panel that conceals the windlass compartment. If these suggestions don't work, you will have to trace the circuit using a multimeter to locate the problem area. Hopefully it is just a fuse. Use caution when working on this DC circuit because it carries a lot of amps when it is functional.

 

[shuga]

Hi Big Easy,
Just bought a 2001 361 and want to install a windlass with a chain rode. Are you happy with the V2?

 

[John Dibb]

Thanks! This post may be nine years old but it just solved my 2002 361 non-working windlass problem!

 

[Ron20324]

Thanks! This post may be nine years old but it just solved my 2002 361 non-working windlass problem!

SO tell us, what did it take to make it work? As far as that smaller fuse to the relay common-to switch,, there should be maybe a 3-amp fuse in it. It should only trigger the relay (like a starter solinoid), not power the windlass.

 

[John Dibb]

I simply had to reset the breaker and the windlass was live. The boat has been out of the water recently and the yard disconnected the electrical stuff to remove the engine. It has been an interesting process finding the solutions to several bits of kit that suddenly didn't work anymore but were fine before the yard work.

 

[Gunni]

I keep my anchor windlass breaker tripped until I need it. Too many amps at play, too much power, too much potential drama.

 

[ToddS]

I keep my anchor windlass breaker tripped until I need it. Too many amps at play, too much power, too much potential drama.

I've been on the fence with whether to do that or not, since buying my first boat with a windlass this year. I've been sailing for decades without a motorized windlass, and I know the P.O. kept the breaker tripped (like you) for the same reasons you list. On the other hand, I consider an anchor to be a piece of safety equipment, and wonder if it might not be ideal to require me to go down below to find/switch the anchor breaker switch when the s#&t is hitting the fan and engine trouble conspires with narrow channels, or wind/current/whatever to push me up on the some rocks, or another boat. Sometimes dropping an anchor is the closest thing we've got to "hitting the brakes" in a crisis. I wonder what percentage leave their breakers switched off. I've gone back and forth a few times and it's only my first year with a windlass.

 

[Gunni]

You should still be able to unlock your anchor lock, and manually release your rode, no power necessary.

 

[Davidasailor26]

You should still be able to unlock your anchor lock, and manually release your rode, no power necessary.

Regardless of whether you keep the breaker tripped it's good to know the manual dropping process. Dropping manually is likely faster in an emergency and works even if your engineer or electrical system fails.