Three seasons ago, I bought a '98 Hunter 376. Not being the original owner, I could not attest to the condition or make / model of some equipment; the windlass being one. I have been replacing what does not work, is obsolete or just could make me happier. The windlass was temperamental; I put some TLC into it and she worked almost all the time, but I lacked confidence. Every so often, I would get the failure to perform. A couple years back, I switched to an all chain 5/16" G4 rode, last Winter brought the up sized 20 KG anchor and new foot switches. I'm already thinking this weight might stress the old guy. Then came Spring commissioning work and chain maintenance .... the old guy died. I could probably run him over to a motor shop for a look, but let's face it, I'd be happier with a new stronger windlass. With some serial number research on the Lewmar obsolete product site, learned my windlass is Simpson-Lawrence Sprint Atlantic. S-L made them in 1997 and quickly succeeded them with the Sprint Atlantic 1000. Lewmar suggested the V2 as direct replacement. A bit of research (ACK to this post https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...awrence-windlass-failure.150969/#post-1024344 by AndyK, May 2013) supported the idea that the V2 was a good replacement for the Atlantic, not just on rating but in terms of installation. Nothing against The Yard, but I can't afford the prices and there's much knowledge to gain via DIY. Granted, I'm doing jobs for the first time, maybe the only time, and I take my time. Here's my experience with this windlass job.
Removing the Atlantic wasn't too bad once I figured out how the gearbox / motor attached to the spindle deck unit. 4-bolts hold the motor gearbox into the above deck unit; the bolts must be removed from below. Once free, the motor gearbox assemble basically fell off the spindle. It was heavy and not much space in which to work. The deck unit had to be separated from the deck (it was caulked in place … thankfully not 5200) using a putty knife, mallet and plastic shims. Once free, there were two large holes exposed; one for the hawse pipe and the other for the deck unit and spindle. The deck unit hole is 2.5" and the V2 needs a 3" hole. Upon inspecting the V2 Gypsy Drum unit, I had some doubt as to whether the unit was too tall to fit under the anchor locker deck lid - did not want to cut a 3" hole and find out in test fitting that the V2 was too tall. The V2 gypsy drum unit is about an inch taller than the Sprint Atlantic. The ruler said it would fit, but just barely; have faith and cut the hole. The V2 comes with a ring base plate to mount on the underside. Placing the plate on the deck, I could see the existing bolt holes were just fine, no need to enlarge and same pattern. I used the ring base plate as a template to sketch out on a small square of plywood the hole pattern for the studs and the hole center to be enlarged (thanks AndyK). I drilled out the 4 stud-holes and bolted the plywood in place beneath the deck to provide material for the pilot bit. Using a 3" hole saw, I enlarged the deck hole. A test fit of the V2 showed a perfect fit with no issues closing the anchor locker lid. I cleaned up the old caulking and made the deck ready to accept the new deck unit. The V2 comes with a rubber mat to fit between the winch and deck. A small bit of trimming was necessary to adapt the mat to the hawse pipe opening as they are different shapes (mat's hawse pipe hole is round; actual hawse pipe hole is not round). Used GE Silicon II door / window caulk (neutral cure, uses alcohol not acid) around holes and underside of mat to provide sealing and adhesion; repeated on top surface of mat for underside of winch. The V2 accepts 4 threaded studs in the base. These extend through deck, backed with the base plate ring and tightened down with nuts. The studs are not used to mount the motor gearbox unit. Set the V2 into place and bolted in from beneath. Trimmed around the deck unit with calk. Weatherproof and done. Attention now to the motor gearbox unit and figuring out how to wire it up. Noted the V2 has two positive (D1 upper, D2 lower) and one negative (middle) posts for the conductors. The Sprint Atlantic used one positive and one negative post. Checking the contactor box, the V2 box uses two positive post connectors (D1, D2 to motor) and one positive post for source from the 90 Amp breaker. There are (3) male blade switch connectors; (2) which run to the up / down switch(s) and (1) ground to the motor. The motor ground returns to the boat ground. Definitely different than the contactor used by the Sprint Atlantic which ran 1 each positive / negative cables to the windlass and jumper the switch ground to the boat ground. Bottom line, (based on 25 feet distance) need to pull length of 4 AWG for the D2 positive and a 12 AWG for the switch negative. All other existing wiring can be reused. The Quick 900 foot switches in the bow required no change (they are powered from the 5 amp windlass circuit on the house bank; the windlass motor is powered via 80 amp circuit off the starter battery). I noted which switch conductors on the Atlantic contactor box went to Up and Down foot switches (important later). Time to mount the motor. If you know the H376, then you enjoy the little access panel in the V-berth head liner that provides access to the windlass - not much space there. Room enough for one person two arms and nothing else. The V2 uses a 3" key on the spindle to align with the motor gearbox. Drop the key out (and it falls down into the chain locker) when you are trying to hold a 40# motor overhead in a tight space with no visibility and ye shall be truly screwed. This is the hardest part of the whole job; getting the motor into the space (it fits but just barely - the V2 motor is larger than the Atlantic (length and diameter) and the overall length with gearbox is greater. Directions say to lightly grease the spindle (I suppose to aid in sliding the motor on); I can't see where this made any difference, but following instructions is important. I used a small loose cable tie to hold the spindle key in place whilst I maneuvered the motor onto the spindle and found alignment between the slot and key. This is pretty tough since you can't see anything, you don't want the key to fall out, and this whole thing is heavy, above your head in a tight space and you are lying on your back trying to lift, hold and align. After a few attempts and some liberal cursing, the motor slid on and went completely to the top. The quick connector is nice, but you must ensure the motor is flush to the deck unit cylinder so the latch will catch both deck and motor flange pieces and hold them together. Close the latch, tighten it down and you are done. Back to the electrical work. Changed out the contactor box to use the V2 box, joined the legacy negative cabling to a mounted post, replaced the 90 amp windlass breaker, connected D1 cable to D1 motor post, D2 cable to D2 motor post, boat ground and switch ground to motor negative post, connected Quick foot switches to contactor box (in noted order as removed from the Atlantic's contactor box). Powered up for the test - everything works fine and in the correct up / down switch directions. Installed the gypsy, threaded the chain through, reconnected to the anchor and then trialed - all is well. All said, not too bad. The biggest PiTA was snaking the new cabling and any work in the locker (mounting, terminal connections). Pretty sure that I at least avoided several hours of Yard labor rate and material cost; and I gained more knowledge about my systems.
Removing the Atlantic wasn't too bad once I figured out how the gearbox / motor attached to the spindle deck unit. 4-bolts hold the motor gearbox into the above deck unit; the bolts must be removed from below. Once free, the motor gearbox assemble basically fell off the spindle. It was heavy and not much space in which to work. The deck unit had to be separated from the deck (it was caulked in place … thankfully not 5200) using a putty knife, mallet and plastic shims. Once free, there were two large holes exposed; one for the hawse pipe and the other for the deck unit and spindle. The deck unit hole is 2.5" and the V2 needs a 3" hole. Upon inspecting the V2 Gypsy Drum unit, I had some doubt as to whether the unit was too tall to fit under the anchor locker deck lid - did not want to cut a 3" hole and find out in test fitting that the V2 was too tall. The V2 gypsy drum unit is about an inch taller than the Sprint Atlantic. The ruler said it would fit, but just barely; have faith and cut the hole. The V2 comes with a ring base plate to mount on the underside. Placing the plate on the deck, I could see the existing bolt holes were just fine, no need to enlarge and same pattern. I used the ring base plate as a template to sketch out on a small square of plywood the hole pattern for the studs and the hole center to be enlarged (thanks AndyK). I drilled out the 4 stud-holes and bolted the plywood in place beneath the deck to provide material for the pilot bit. Using a 3" hole saw, I enlarged the deck hole. A test fit of the V2 showed a perfect fit with no issues closing the anchor locker lid. I cleaned up the old caulking and made the deck ready to accept the new deck unit. The V2 comes with a rubber mat to fit between the winch and deck. A small bit of trimming was necessary to adapt the mat to the hawse pipe opening as they are different shapes (mat's hawse pipe hole is round; actual hawse pipe hole is not round). Used GE Silicon II door / window caulk (neutral cure, uses alcohol not acid) around holes and underside of mat to provide sealing and adhesion; repeated on top surface of mat for underside of winch. The V2 accepts 4 threaded studs in the base. These extend through deck, backed with the base plate ring and tightened down with nuts. The studs are not used to mount the motor gearbox unit. Set the V2 into place and bolted in from beneath. Trimmed around the deck unit with calk. Weatherproof and done. Attention now to the motor gearbox unit and figuring out how to wire it up. Noted the V2 has two positive (D1 upper, D2 lower) and one negative (middle) posts for the conductors. The Sprint Atlantic used one positive and one negative post. Checking the contactor box, the V2 box uses two positive post connectors (D1, D2 to motor) and one positive post for source from the 90 Amp breaker. There are (3) male blade switch connectors; (2) which run to the up / down switch(s) and (1) ground to the motor. The motor ground returns to the boat ground. Definitely different than the contactor used by the Sprint Atlantic which ran 1 each positive / negative cables to the windlass and jumper the switch ground to the boat ground. Bottom line, (based on 25 feet distance) need to pull length of 4 AWG for the D2 positive and a 12 AWG for the switch negative. All other existing wiring can be reused. The Quick 900 foot switches in the bow required no change (they are powered from the 5 amp windlass circuit on the house bank; the windlass motor is powered via 80 amp circuit off the starter battery). I noted which switch conductors on the Atlantic contactor box went to Up and Down foot switches (important later). Time to mount the motor. If you know the H376, then you enjoy the little access panel in the V-berth head liner that provides access to the windlass - not much space there. Room enough for one person two arms and nothing else. The V2 uses a 3" key on the spindle to align with the motor gearbox. Drop the key out (and it falls down into the chain locker) when you are trying to hold a 40# motor overhead in a tight space with no visibility and ye shall be truly screwed. This is the hardest part of the whole job; getting the motor into the space (it fits but just barely - the V2 motor is larger than the Atlantic (length and diameter) and the overall length with gearbox is greater. Directions say to lightly grease the spindle (I suppose to aid in sliding the motor on); I can't see where this made any difference, but following instructions is important. I used a small loose cable tie to hold the spindle key in place whilst I maneuvered the motor onto the spindle and found alignment between the slot and key. This is pretty tough since you can't see anything, you don't want the key to fall out, and this whole thing is heavy, above your head in a tight space and you are lying on your back trying to lift, hold and align. After a few attempts and some liberal cursing, the motor slid on and went completely to the top. The quick connector is nice, but you must ensure the motor is flush to the deck unit cylinder so the latch will catch both deck and motor flange pieces and hold them together. Close the latch, tighten it down and you are done. Back to the electrical work. Changed out the contactor box to use the V2 box, joined the legacy negative cabling to a mounted post, replaced the 90 amp windlass breaker, connected D1 cable to D1 motor post, D2 cable to D2 motor post, boat ground and switch ground to motor negative post, connected Quick foot switches to contactor box (in noted order as removed from the Atlantic's contactor box). Powered up for the test - everything works fine and in the correct up / down switch directions. Installed the gypsy, threaded the chain through, reconnected to the anchor and then trialed - all is well. All said, not too bad. The biggest PiTA was snaking the new cabling and any work in the locker (mounting, terminal connections). Pretty sure that I at least avoided several hours of Yard labor rate and material cost; and I gained more knowledge about my systems.
