Legend 35.5 furling problem

Apex · May 8, 2017

check the download section for your furler manual, Hood SeaFurl. the furler is unstalled over your forestay. the line you show only does two things; prevents rotation of the furling drum outer and limits its upward movement. rotation would potentially foul the furling line, and halting the base allows jib luff tension adjustment. the shackle pin looks to long, your lead to the drum looks better as tied currently.
a b&r rig owner here can help with rig tuning and rake and prebend specs.

Karl13265 · May 8, 2017

It looks like your missing more than just the pin, the furler should be attached with a toggle that has a slight bend at either end. One end is attached to the same pin that hold the forestay and the other end goes inside the drum where you have your line attached now. It is held in place by another short clevis pin and a split pin. The piece that you show on the right will work I believe, the larger end with the pin will go around the steel shaft under the stay shackle and the small end with the appropriate pin through the drum. You should be able to rake the mast aft with stays. Do you have a back stay adjuster on the boat.

isaksp00 · May 10, 2017

Look at the thread about 8 or 9 older than this, "Hood furler". The post from Terry Cox shows what looks like a custom solution that would work for you.

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John Nantz · May 11, 2017

The mast needs to have some rake to it otherwise the helm will be off balance, as in too much or not enough helm.

I don't happen to know what the rake should be on that rig but on ours, if memory serves (and that was a long time ago), it's something in the neighborhood of 8 to 9 inches. One way to get an idea might be to install the furler and see how close to the top of the forestay the furler foil is. And this is assuming that the rake was set properly when the furler foil was installed. One might assume (ASSUME = does not mean it is for sure) that the forestay is adjusted to approximately the right length. On the other hand, if the furler doesn't fit because the forestay is too short then, it is for sure, that the forestay turnbuckle is too tight (if the mast rake was properly set previously).

Speaking of turnbuckle, please make darn sure that the turnbuckle cannot unscrew itself. Again, this has been a long time for me, but there should be a carter key and/or tie wire to insure the turnbuckle doesn't unscrew itself, otherwise this could ruin your day.

As for the furler, I tried to upload a *.pdf copy of the SeaFurl LD Manual but the file size at 9MB was too large.
[Edit: 8 inches =~20 cm; 9 inches ~ 23 cm]
[Edit: this web site has a *.pdf copy of the Hood SL (Single Line) furler. The installation is very similar to the continuous line furler. Pay special note to figure 10 about the halyard angle.
https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Oday_gen_80882234.pdf]

John Nantz · May 12, 2017

The URL works a lot better without the "]" at the end, as in:
https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Oday_gen_80882234.pdf

Karl13265 · May 12, 2017

Michael-Louis, I had a 1992 35.5 prior to my owning our present boat the 40.5. The first step in adjusting your rig is assuring that the mast is plumb (straight up/down on the mast step) You can test your mast position on the step by suspending a small weight from the end of your main halyard and then adjusting your main stays and the fore stay to bring the mast to plumb. When the mast is plumb the weight should be suspended just above the boom gooseneck parallel to the mast sail track.

Adjusting the forestay involves taking the top of the furler apart by removing the spacers at the top the furler barrel and then the pin. The furler drum and the barrel will then slide up the stay and allow you access to the turnbuckle. Once the mast is plumb, you then adjust your rake aft with the secondary stays. Once you have some rake in the rig you will then have to sail the boat to assess your weather helm. to much helm pressure = too much rake. Make your necessary adjustments to the stays to bring your helm to where your comfortable with how the boat answers your helm commands. The back stay is adjusted to maximize the rigs power.

John Nantz · May 12, 2017

I like Karl's excellent procedure description. Added a clarification:

Karl13265 said:
Adjusting the forestay involves taking the top of the furler apart by removing the spacers at the top the furler barrel and then the pin.

spacers = Top bearing (see page 2 of the Hood Manual)

Karl13265 said:
The furler drum and the barrel will then slide up the stay and allow you access to the turnbuckle. Once the mast is plumb, you then adjust your rake aft with the secondary stays. Once you have some rake in the rig you will then have to sail the boat to assess your weather helm. to much helm pressure = too much rake. Make your necessary adjustments to the stays to bring your helm to where your comfortable with how the boat answers your helm commands.

To avoid going up and down the mast to install and remove the top bearing as the rake is adjusted I would think the boat could be sailed without it for the purpose of just testing weather helm and then install the top bearing when the rake is dialed in where you want it.

Karl - I liked your explanation, it was a good one. A rigger did our adjusting so I missed out on that part. The 40.5 is a really nice boat and I've always liked it.

walmsleyc · May 12, 2017

The spacers are at the bottom (not the top bearing) and allow access to the turnbuckle under the bearing tube. No need to go up the mast.

I have easily more than a foot of rake on my boat.

Chris

Karl13265 · May 13, 2017

John, when I mentioned the top of the furler, I meant the portion just above the drum just as Walmsleyc indicates. You simply pop one side of the two spacers out at the top of the barrel not the not of the top of furler foil and then the second portion, along with the pin. Below these caps is the top bearing of the barrel, note the way that it hooks around the fore stay as it has to be re-installed the same way. Finally you detach the furler drum from the head stem fitting as shown in the photo supplied by Michael-Louis. With these pieces out you should be able to push the drum/barrel and foil up the mast approximately a foot or slightly more which will allow you complete access to the fore stay turnbuckle. Once is furler is up, I used a piece of 2x4 lumber and some line to secure it to the pulpit that way it can't fall back and take your fingers off. Proceed to plumb the mast on the step with the fore and main stays, then re-install the furler to its position below the deck and re-attack the drum with the toggle that I did so well drawing, lol. Adjust your rake with your secondaries and go sailing. When the proper rake is achieved the boat should balance well with the sail plan and weather helm should be at a minimum. Or at least mine was.

Karl13265 · May 13, 2017

John the only reason we have a 40.5 is that we lost the 35.5 to a hurricane 3 years ago, if not for that we would still have her. I couldn't find a replacement that was in the same condition so opted for a slightly newer 40.5, same boat just longer and wider that requires more bottom paint.

John Nantz · May 14, 2017

Chris -

walmsleyc said:
The spacers are at the bottom (not the top bearing) and allow access to the turnbuckle under the bearing tube. No need to go up there mast.

I'll have to try this out next time. The last time I tried to raise the drum the top bearing wouldn't let me because the swaged fitting at the top of the forestay was too large for the top bearing hole so I had to go up the mast, remove the screws or pop rivets (don't remember which), come back down the mast and raise the drum up; therefore, I assumed that this is the way it's done. Now, maybe, the foil is longer, or too long? Anyhow, in any event, it was a lot of work.

By the way, our spinnaker is a whole like yours only just red-white (horizontal panel)-red, not masthead but flown from just above the forestay. Is your's rigged for masthead?

Karl -

Karl13265 said:
John the only reason we have a 40.5 is that we lost the 35.5 to a hurricane 3 years ago, if not for that we would still have her. I couldn't find a replacement that was in the same condition so opted for a slightly newer 40.5, same boat just longer and wider that requires more bottom paint.

That's a bummer. There must be a story there? Hopefully you weren't sailing it at the time.
One nice thing about the 35.5 is the boom is low enough to easily get one's arm around it when flaking the main while the 40.5 is fairly high and the sail is heavier so that part is a concern for me when short handing. And of course, docking the 40.5 is more tonnage to manhandle, but otherwise, more room inside is the tradeoff.

walmsleyc · May 14, 2017

John,

When you remove the "spacers" being talked about, the furler tube will actually be totally released from the furler drum and bottom bearing assembly. Typically, the furler tube will then lower until it hits the turnbuckle, and the drum and bottom bearing assembly can be lifted (slides easily over top of the furler tube) as high as you want (note: you will need to release whatever attachment there is from the bottom of the drum assembly to the boat that holds it down and prevents it fromspinning). You only need to lift it a few feet to expose the turnbuckle. While doing this, the top bearing never gets closer to the swage at the top of the forestay (in fact it will usually move down a little), nor should you ever need to remove the top bearing to do this.

I think you need to study figure 5 in this: http://www.almacennaval.com/uploads/images/diy/manuals/SEAFURL LD SERIES MANUAL.pdf
to see that it is designed to come apart to access the turnbuckle.

My spinnaker is flown from just above my forestay (like yours). My picture happens to not show the top 6' of my mast.

Cheers
Chris

Legend 35.5 furling problem

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