Last year my maserator was working fine but this spring it will not turn. I tried using the screw driver slot in the end of the shaft with no success. Any suggestions on how to try getting it to rotate before I pitch it and buy a new one?
jambed maserator
- Thread starter Hayden Watson
- Start date
Don’t replace with another macerator. The design is flawed, they jam up and can’t be run dry without damage, but there’s no way to know exactly when to shut it off.
Replace it with a diaphragm pump. It’ll be the last time you will have to do that shitty job.
Replace it with a diaphragm pump. It’ll be the last time you will have to do that shitty job.
What he said.
You can go with a manual diaphragm pump or an electric one. You decide which kind is right for you and your budget.
You can go with a manual diaphragm pump or an electric one. You decide which kind is right for you and your budget.
Peggy, I saw a 12V Jobsco diaphragm waste pump but did not see a manual one. Do you have a model and number? I assuem that they all take an 1½ø thruhull. My maserator connects to a 3/4" so it would also require a haulout which isn't needed for at least a year.
Jabsco does make a manual diaphragm pump, but it's rated only for bilge water or gray water, not waste. Whale makes a couple of manual diaphragm waste pumps...many boat owners use manual diaphragm bilge pumps. So search for "marine manual diaphragm waste pump" or "marine manual diaphragm pump"...stay away from the cheapest ones...and ask for make/model suggestions from other posters.
Unless your macerator pump is very unusual, it has a fitting for a 1.5" hose coming out of the tank and and a 1" discharge fitting that goes to a 1" thru-hull. Most manual diaphragm pumps are 1.5" in AND out. However, you would not have to install a larger thru-hull to use a pump that has a 1.5" discharge...you'd only need to put a 1" x 1.5" reducer in the hose between the pump and your existing 1" thru-hull.
Unless your macerator pump is very unusual, it has a fitting for a 1.5" hose coming out of the tank and and a 1" discharge fitting that goes to a 1" thru-hull. Most manual diaphragm pumps are 1.5" in AND out. However, you would not have to install a larger thru-hull to use a pump that has a 1.5" discharge...you'd only need to put a 1" x 1.5" reducer in the hose between the pump and your existing 1" thru-hull.
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Thanks Peggy. I have not measured my through hull and assumed it was 3/4 but it might be 1" The maserator is just a standard Jobsco. Is there a concurn with pipeline constipation with using a reducer to shove 1½" outlet through a 1" hole?
No more concern than there is pulling waste into a pump via a 1.5" fitting and out via a 1" hose.
Keep in mind that "manual" means you can't just push a button to dump the tank any more, you have to operate the pump yourself, which requires having access to the tank because the pump is installed in the same location as your macerator pump. So while electric diaphragm pumps are more expensive than either macerator pumps or manual diaphragm pumps, they're a lot easier to use and last for decades with little or no maintenance. IMO worth the extra cost.
Keep in mind that "manual" means you can't just push a button to dump the tank any more, you have to operate the pump yourself, which requires having access to the tank because the pump is installed in the same location as your macerator pump. So while electric diaphragm pumps are more expensive than either macerator pumps or manual diaphragm pumps, they're a lot easier to use and last for decades with little or no maintenance. IMO worth the extra cost.
Meanwhile back to my origianl question. My maserator was working last year. Can it be taken apart and cleared of whatever is abstructing and put back togather. I am a fix it first before replace it kind of guy. Can you get parts for them?
You can get parts for it..Fisheries Supply in your neck of the woods even sells parts individually...you don't have to buy the whole kit. However, whether it's worth it depends on what's wrong with it. If it's just a stuck impeller, replace it...and prevent it from happening again by rinsing out the pump and the plumbing to and from it before the boat will sit. But if it's a seized motor or needs a bunch of parts, you're better off replacing it. You prob'ly should start with the owners manual, which includes an exploded drawing and parts list. Jabsco Macerator Pump owner manual
I use a 90° angled screwdriver. Exactly the same tool used for a house hold garbage disposal [home macerator].
Try reverse and forward "jiggles" on the shaft slot.
1) Any movement at all?
2) Does the motor "hum" but not turn?
3) Can you "back flow" the pump into the hold tank? Sometimes you can flush back, depending on your Deck RV suck out cap and piping configuration, and a long garden hose.
The back flow method is a 3 person operations. One on deck, one on the switch and one to force/wiggle the non running shaft. If you get a full/half rotation, remove the tool and hit the switch.
What ever is "jamming" the macerator blades, normally slowly flowed into that position. It won't take much to reorient it.
If you get the pump running, don't stop the back flush. Just like a garbage disposal keep the "water" running. It may make a horrible grinding noise, at first. If it jams again, repeat and rinse.
I have unstuck mine 3 times from overnight guests, even after warning them. Mine is still "humming" along.
No piping disconnection!
___
Diaphragm pumps have similar problems. They have suction and discharge check valves that get stuck too.
Remember nothing other than approved toilet paper and what goes into you mouth goes into a marine toilet.
BTW that works in landlubber toilets too.
Jim...
PS: Dont worry we filled the hold tank with shore water and RV sucked it out 4 times. Last removal was clear water. Before the Macerator was back flushed.
Thanks Jim.
I always try to pump water through after it empties so that there is no "Stuff" left in there but in the PNW I don't get much change to use it. The only time it gets used is when I cruise in Canadian waters. They have very few pumpouts up there and look at you kind of funny when you ask where to find one.
I always try to pump water through after it empties so that there is no "Stuff" left in there but in the PNW I don't get much change to use it. The only time it gets used is when I cruise in Canadian waters. They have very few pumpouts up there and look at you kind of funny when you ask where to find one.
Just unbolt the front housing and see what is jamming it. I kept tripping the breaker and bought a new one. I took the old one home and found someone had flushed a non dissolvable paper towel that wrapped around the impeller. Now I have a whole spare macerater. So yes they can be disassembled and diagnosed.
I have had good luck taking a water pump a anchor wash pump apart
and cleaning inside where the bearing is.
But did take one apart ran for 2 weeks and than froze and added new,moisture is always
In things and some times it just can’t be fixed.
Nick
and cleaning inside where the bearing is.
But did take one apart ran for 2 weeks and than froze and added new,moisture is always
In things and some times it just can’t be fixed.
Nick
Good day Peggy.
(Background) Back in March you responded to a post I had on a jambed macerator pump. I haven't had any cruises to Canada so haven't replaced it but this last week the old one started leaking at a crack in the pump housing which was found in the usual way. Open the boat and get overpowered by the smells coming from within and yes of course we had out of town guests with us! I asked everyone to go away and come back in a couple of hours and headed to the pump out. A complete pump out and flush followed by some of your wonderful KO I bough years ago and we were able to have a wonderful day on the water (with limited fluid intake) ;>)
Now I need to replace the macerator and have a few questions. I am interested in installing a diaphragm pump.
- Do you have any suggestions for diaphragm pumps (manual and electric) or at lease models to avoid?
- On the 1988 Catalina 30 factory install, the 1½"ø tank outlet has a short section of hose connected to a "T" fitting with the other cross arm of the T going to the deck pump out fitting and the stem of the T attaching to the macerator. there are no valves. should there be?
- The 1"ø outlet hose is connected to the below waterline through hull with about 12" of hose that connects to the Marlon through hull ball valve. There is no vented loop. Do I need to add one? The ball valve is always closed unless I am pumping and I usually have it wired closed unless I am up in Canada.
- My wife is dubious about "stuff" going through a 1"ø hose if it hasn't been chopped up by a macerator first. Any words of wisdom for her in that regard?
1/ i've seen macerators in certain locations with motors damaged by corrosion . these are common problems on rv s , where the mac is mounted under the vehicle. the motors get so badly corroded from road salt and moisture they can't be saved. 2/ if macerators aren't properly winterized , the -50 pure antifreeze can turn to slush and fatally damage it. -50 antifreeze does not protect to -50...
