I'm just speculating, I have no idea. But it's hard to imagine you could screw up such a simple function with hardware.jviss
Are you saying that it is in the software? They kind of bill it as an automatic unit and then waffle on it when pressed
I'm just speculating, I have no idea. But it's hard to imagine you could screw up such a simple function with hardware.jviss
Are you saying that it is in the software? They kind of bill it as an automatic unit and then waffle on it when pressed
Jackdaw - that is the same manual I have. I had to set my dip switch for the refrigerator to have an offset based on the measured temperature after it had been stabilized. With the standard setting the measured temperature was a few degrees above 33 degrees F in the overcool mode so I set the offset to account for that in accordance with the manual.Jackdaw. I have the same unit you have except with a different evaporator coil. Attached is the manual. Dipswitch settings begin on page 15. If you set it to the default refrigerator settings everything should work. Mine works as advertised. My box goes down to 24 degrees F on "overcool" mode and floats up to almost 40 on saver mode. The dip switches are not set correctly from the factory and have to be set in order for everything to work right. There is room to tweak as well if you don't like the initial settings.
To the group. I did a lot of research on these things before I bought mine last year. I never saw the panel described above. The ISEC control for mine is just a dial.
Amen. It is shameful. They have a video out there that speaks about the automatic overcool function while some added fine print on the video states that you must switch it manually. Pathetic.But I think they reached beyond their competency, with the approach of "let's just connect everything to a microprocessor, and then it's a simple matter of software." And then, they suck at software. it is compounded by recognizing the bug, and trying to document their way out of it. Shameful.
This is the same unit I have. I left the DIP switches in the default position, and it controls 100% of the time at 41F. My thermostat is near the bottom. I've never played with the offset switches. There does not seem to be an explanation of the offset settings. Maybe I'll just flip then in binary sequence and see what happens.Jackdaw. I have the same unit you have except with a different evaporator coil. Attached is the manual. Dipswitch settings begin on page 15. If you set it to the default refrigerator settings everything should work. Mine works as advertised. My box goes down to 24 degrees F on "overcool" mode and floats up to almost 40 on saver mode. The dip switches are not set correctly from the factory and have to be set in order for everything to work right. There is room to tweak as well if you don't like the initial settings.
To the group. I did a lot of research on these things before I bought mine last year. I never saw the panel described above. The ISEC control for mine is just a dial.
Jackdaw, When you say "This is the same unit I have" do you mean the digital version that was shown by the original poster (the ITC) or do you have the ISEC version with the rotary switch (with the numbers and an arrow on it)? It is the ISEC version with the rotary dial (simple non digital readout) that has the dip switches. There may be dip switches for the digital version but I am not familiar with that particular piece of equipment.This is the same unit I have. I left the DIP switches in the default position, and it controls 100% of the time at 41F. My thermostat is near the bottom. I've never played with the offset switches. There does not seem to be an explanation of the offset settings. Maybe I'll just flip then in binary sequence and see what happens.
I'll also check the voltage at the controller. It would be possible that too-small (or an issue with the) wiring would not allow it to see the trip value. I'll check the DIP switch as well.
I have the same ISEC with the rotary switch. I have a digital thermometer probe in the box next the ISEC probe, and it shows rock steady 41F. So that works. If I set the box to freeze, it will happy go down to almost zero. So that works. I have at least 10G wire. I'll play again. Maybe I'm back in the mood to get frustrated! ;^)Jackdaw, When you say "This is the same unit I have" do you mean the digital version that was shown by the original poster (the ITC) or do you have the ISEC version with the rotary switch (with the numbers and an arrow on it)? It is the ISEC version with the rotary dial (simple non digital readout) that has the dip switches. There may be dip switches for the digital version but I am not familiar with that particular piece of equipment.
The explanation for how to set the dip switches for ISEC is contained in the pdf file that was posted earlier, including the correct positions for using it as a refrigerator or as a freezer (different dip switch settings) and also the settings to adjust for difference that may exist between the thermostat sensor and the actual measured temperature. It takes a long time to stabilize so make sure your temp is stable before you do the dip switch thing.
Also, the wiring is a good thing to check too. I have a 10 ga wire for the power supply. Like you noted, it may be that the controller isn't seeing the correct voltage to kick into the over cooling mode. Good luck. Smokey
Is that 10G wire for the whole fridge, or just the controller?I have a 10 ga wire for the power supply.
Yes, 10 g for the whole fridge and controller, but it is a new ISOTHERM unit and draws very little current compared to my old unit which was run with the same 10 G wire. The wire run is not very long (about 5 feet one way) and the system seems to work as designed, including going into the overcool mode. My fridge goes down to about 33-34 degrees (at the bottom of the fidge measured with a digital temp gauge) when in overcool and stabilzed.Is that 10G wire for the whole fridge, or just the controller?