Is Halyard Latch Adjustable?

jssailem · May 21, 2019

Good Morning Mike

That thing is a rope clutch. Designed to slip when in the open state both ways. (The image shows open state).
And to lock (stop slipping) the line when closed. In the closed position, you can pull in line and it will move towards the cockpit but stop the line from moving towards the mast. (Normal orientation)

dlochner · May 21, 2019

To add to John's comment, the clutches allow 1 winch to service several lines. The clutch acts functions as a cleat and because it is located in front of the winch, the line can be cleated without removing the line from the winch first. They are best used for lines that are infrequently adjusted, i.e., halyards, reefing lines, out haul, etc. they are not good for sheets that need to be frequently trimmed.

Clutches are usually designed for a specific line size or range. If you can find the model number you can look up the size lines that the clutch can hold or on some brands the line size is on the clutch.

Jackdaw · May 21, 2019

While your question is kinda hard to understand, it sounds like its working fine. As other note:
You can always pull a line IN through a clutch, regardless of handle position.
Line will only go OUT with the handle open.

Three things of note:
Clutches can handle a range on line widths
The 'dogs' wear to match the line, if you swap down in diameter you can get slippage OUT and need to replace the dog
Clutches are either 100% OPEN or 100% CLOSED. Never in between.

One other thing: Older style 'jammers' had to opened to pull line in either direction. Maybe that's what has you confused. If you are confused, its hard to tell.

DrJudyB · May 21, 2019

Those are Spinlock XAS cliches, which are their clutches for Cuising boats up to about 33 feet or so. Spinlock XAS rope clutches come in two size ranges. 4 to 8 mm (3/16 to 5/16 inch) and 6 to 12 mm(1/4 to 1/2 inch) You had 1/2 in i(12 mm) which indicates you most likely have the bigger of the two Spinlock XAS clutch sizes. So the 7/16 line should work fine in the clutch.

The 7/16 line is a comparatively large diameter for a 28 foot size boat. So I hope you didn’t spend a fortune on high tech line, because Big diameter lines stretch, less (at a cost of more weight aloft, which makes the boat a little more tender .)

Jackdaw · May 21, 2019

SirMichael said:
Thanks for the replies, I do appreciate the perspectives. At least now I know that the clutch is acting normally. I’ve had this boat for 4 years with the 1/2” line and I’d gotten used to it that way (would not slip either direction). I’m sure that the 7/16” line will be strong enough (this new line is dyneema, a bit of overkill, I’m sure).

I’ll see if I can find a part number on the clutch and see what size rope it’s speced for.

Again, Thanks!

Mike

Ah.
I'm assuming that the .5 inch line was at the upper end of the clutch range and was just big enough to not allow the line to slip through when pulling in. You now have a functional clutch! Not having to open it (release the line) to pull IN is the huge functional advantage over a jammer or a cleat.

Scott T-Bird · May 21, 2019

If you had a 1/2" line in that clutch, there is no way that it would fit through the smaller XAS model. The smaller XAS model is made for small one-designs & sport boats that handle very small control lines. 8 mm would probably be the smallest line you would ever see on your boat. You undoubtedly have the 6 mm to 12 mm model, which is made for a small cruiser like yours.

You probably could have been ok with 3/8" line since you bought dyneema, so 7/16" may be overkill. Your original 1/2" lines were surely overkill as well. Some people like the larger diameter because it is easier on the hands. In reality, you experienced the downside of large diameter … friction. That's why you couldn't pull your halyard in through a closed clutch. There is too much friction on the blocks and through the clutch. I switched all my halyards to 9.5 mm (3/8") low stretch lines to reduce the weight and friction. I'm not handling halyards a lot so do not care if a larger diameter "feels" better. I have those same spinlock clutches for over 12 years now. They have taken abuse from exposure, but still function perfectly well. I had 7/16" halyards for at least half that time. When I went down to 3/8", I did not notice any difference, except better operation due to less friction. The clutches continue to grip well. I have considered replacing the clutches, though. They have taken a beating from exposure. Next set will be protected from the sun when I'm not on the boat.

jssailem · May 21, 2019

Sir Michael.. Dyneema is as you say "Over Kill" for a halyard. It is stronger than steel and now stretch. Slippery line so be sure to have a lock knot with a bite and lock stitched on the halyard shackle. Flapping about on a luffing sail you do not need the knot to come undone.

Benefit is you can go small line and still have all the strength/no stretch of stainless steel wire.

Watch for chafe and UV degradation. You'll see the line loose it's shiny surface. First sign of sun burn. 6 or so years and you'll likely be looking at replacement.

Keep the end bits that you trim. They make excellent soft shackles. A 7/16 line some 40 inches long would make a terrific soft shackle with a breaking strength of 36,000 lbs. You could nearly lift your boat out of the water with that soft shackle.

Meriachee · May 21, 2019

jssailem said:
Dyneema is as you say "Over Kill" for a halyard.

Just about perfect, however, for a torsion rope.

Jackdaw · May 21, 2019

jssailem said:
Sir Michael.. Dyneema is as you say "Over Kill" for a halyard. It is stronger than steel and now stretch. Slippery line so be sure to have a lock knot with a bite and lock stitched on the halyard shackle. Flapping about on a luffing sail you do not need the knot to come undone.

Benefit is you can go small line and still have all the strength/no stretch of stainless steel wire.

Watch for chafe and UV degradation. You'll see the line loose it's shiny surface. First sign of sun burn. 6 or so years and you'll likely be looking at replacement.

Keep the end bits that you trim. They make excellent soft shackles. A 7/16 line some 40 inches long would make a terrific soft shackle with a breaking strength of 36,000 lbs. You could nearly lift your boat out of the water with that soft shackle.

He has dyneema CORED line, not single braid dyneema. You can see the polyester cover in the picture. Should be fine.

DrJudyB · May 21, 2019

Meriachee said:
Just about perfect, however, for a torsion rope.

Umm, it doesn't work that way. Torsion rope is what you need for a free flying furler, and it's constructed very differently than regular dyneema single braid or dyneema cored line.

Judy
Semi-Retired Sailmaker.

Meriachee · May 21, 2019

DrJudyB said:
Umm, it doesn't work that way. Torsion rope is what you need for a free flying furler, and it's constructed very differently than regular dyneema single braid or dyneema cored line.

Sorry my dear, allow me to rephrase; perfect as a halyard for use with that nice shiny black Marlow stuff that I have for my torsion rope.
Better?

Jackdaw · May 21, 2019

DrJudyB said:
and it's constructed very differently than regular dyneema single braid or dyneema cored line.

Which is probably the least torsion resistant line made by man.

Meriachee · May 21, 2019

SirMichael said:
What is torsion rope?

Something totally different. Carry on..

Scott T-Bird · May 22, 2019

I was lost on that one, too. I had to look it up and it seems to have something to do with furling a headsail from top down. Nothing to do with your jib or genoa … still don't fully comprehend. It's got to be one of those things that you'll know it when you see it!