Introduction & Questions From a Newbie

Apr 27, 2010
1,240
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
It would but it looks like it has 8 to 1 vs 4 to 1 advantage. You don’t need that much pulling power and you will have to pull a lot more rope to move the hook the same distance, compared to one with only two pullies per block. It will be slower than the 4 to 1 variant.
 
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P100D

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Jul 24, 2016
129
Hunter 23 Nashville TN Percy Priest lake
It would but it looks like it has 8 to 1 vs 4 to 1 advantage. You don’t need that much pulling power and you will have to pull a lot more rope to move the hook the same distance, compared to one with only two pullies per block. It will be slower than the 4 to 1 variant.

Very True. It's pretty easy with the 4 to 1. And mine does have the safety latches on the hooks.
 

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P100D

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Jul 24, 2016
129
Hunter 23 Nashville TN Percy Priest lake
Up and down 2 times and both times no one to video it. But this is the you tube video that helped me get my system.
My poles are simply 2 scaffold poles picked up from northern tool, like $8 each. I don't have a Mast crutch that tall I just transition to the back and hold it till it's unpinned and can move the mast forward. I did tape my shroud to my lifeline with some electrical tape to keep the T-bolt upright so I wouldn't bend it this time. Worked great.
 
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Jun 1, 2018
20
Hunter 23 Brookeville Lake, IN
I'm unable to see the video link for some reason. That is a good idea about taping off the shroud.
 

Kermit

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Jul 31, 2010
5,657
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
The problem I have with the video is it only shows lowering the mast. I used the same system but raising the mast was an entirely different beast. And by beast I mean *BEAST*!
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,052
-na -NA Anywhere USA
My concern is the attachment of the poles to the base of the stanchion as I could not see that. An exploded view would be helpful
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,240
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I have seen that "A frame" approach which people bolted to the loop type attachment on the H23 stanchion base, and have wondered if I should switch to that. The advantage over a single gin pole sticking out the front of the mast base seems to be that it may (or does?) provide some lateral support, like the baby stays on the newer Hunter designed lifting systems. My boat came with a pretty robust aluminum gin pole and thick walled aluminum bracket made by the prev owner, and it works well - except for lateral support. I made a baby stay hookup using stainless wires and a chain loop around the mast; the complexity is getting the attachment points for the lower end of the baby stays to be at the same height as the mast pivot. I ended up making wood supports that I have to use ratchet straps around the hull to clamp down, along with a wire between the two across the deck. It is a PITA to set up, but has helped keep the mast from swaying. Not ideal, and I'd never try to raise it alone.
Those of you who used that A-frame setup, how did you like it? Hoe did you attach the top to the mast so the attachment can slide, but not let the mast move sideways? And as Dave asked, best way to attach to stanchion so it can swivel?
 

P100D

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Jul 24, 2016
129
Hunter 23 Nashville TN Percy Priest lake
I attach my A frame to the stanchion with 3/8 double brade and a square knot. Never slipped or been a problem about 10 up and downs, they don't take much pressure just holding the triangle. The top end I have an anchor shackle to connect the 2 and the halyard attaches here, then the block and tackle to the jib pendant and anchor shackle. I believe the A-frame helps keep the pull in the middle, which helps when moving but
When stopped it will sway a little. How much I don't know and hopefully will never know. I always raise and lower in the water because our boat ramps are not flat. I find that to be much much easier and safer. My wife pulls and I keep it steady. No baby stays.

Hope that answered your questions.