Hunter 43 Legend front window/windshield replacement

Paul Cossman · Jun 25, 2014

When I replaced the windshield on my 1991 Passage 42, it turned out that Hunter had outsourced the fabrication of the windshield to another company. I ordered it from that other company, and they shipped it to the Harbor Island marina where we were located (via a HUGE crate shipped upon an 18-wheeler). Since Hunter handled the administrative end of it, I don't know the name of the fabricator. But I would think your issue must be similar. I would think they could help you locate the outsourcer.

Rick D · Jun 25, 2014

Yea...

evinrudejim said:
I need to replace the windshield on my 1991 43 Legend because it has a large L-shaped crack from someone tromping on it.
I tried to get some estimates on having it professionally done but there seems to be some disagreement as to the approach. One boat tech tried to convince me that the new acrylic could be fabbed and just screwed down at the perimeter and the material could be held to conform to the radius. Several others- including my materials supplier, San Diego Plastics, said that it would need to be oven formed owing to the nominal 1/2" thickness of the acrylic. One installer has an oven large enough to fit the part. The problem is fabricating the form.
Does anyone have any experience in the job. I tried contacting Hunter, but they don't seem interested in 23 year old boats.

Yes, I had the ports replaced on my 40.5, both fixed and opening by a local SoCal vendor. You want a quality, domestically sourced, acrylic. And, yes, the "windshield" needs to be oven formed. I don't readily have the name or contact info of my guy (it's been about five years) but can look it up if you like and if you can give me a couple of days. Please send me a PM if you want me to check.

artboas · Jun 25, 2014

I can help

evinrudejim said:
I need to replace the windshield on my 1991 43 Legend because it has a large L-shaped crack from someone tromping on it.
I tried to get some estimates on having it professionally done but there seems to be some disagreement as to the approach. One boat tech tried to convince me that the new acrylic could be fabbed and just screwed down at the perimeter and the material could be held to conform to the radius. Several others- including my materials supplier, San Diego Plastics, said that it would need to be oven formed owing to the nominal 1/2" thickness of the acrylic. One installer has an oven large enough to fit the part. The problem is fabricating the form.
Does anyone have any experience in the job. I tried contacting Hunter, but they don't seem interested in 23 year old boats.

Here's the deal.
I can't help you with locating the new windshield. I would think that Eddie Breeden at Hunter can give you excellent advice with that.
But.... Here is where I can really assist you.
I figured out a very easy way to remove Hunter windshields and overhead glass in a painless quick easy way.
I had to remove the port side overhead glass on my 49x
Hunter told me that their understood method used small wood wedges, lots of cutting, hammering, etc.
The method I figured out had the glass out in 45 minutes with zero damage.
Look up my posts on the forum, as it's documented there.
I'm at Rcyc, by the way.
SV "Short Circuit"
Let me know if I can help

Paul Cossman · Jun 25, 2014

Re: I can help

Art,

Awesome post on how to do the removal. Thanks.

artboas · Jun 27, 2014

Already posted

Paul Cossman said:
Art,

Awesome post on how to do the removal. Thanks.

If you look me up as author artboas , you'll see about seven thousand posts (almost), anyway, one of them them shows you how I did it.
Super easy.
Problem is with the large windshields is they are very heavy.
This solves all that.
If you can't find the post, let me know

artboas · Jun 27, 2014

June 2009 post

artboas said:
If you look me up as author artboas , you'll see about seven thousand posts (almost), anyway, one of them them shows you how I did it.
Super easy.
Problem is with the large windshields is they are very heavy.
This solves all that.
If you can't find the post, let me know

My post is titled
How to remove skylights and windows
June 2009

Good luck

MS LITA · Jun 25, 2018

I’m new to Hunter forum so forgive what I don’t know.
Can u help with some windshield replacement questions ? and most of all the repair of old bed.

1991 42’ Passage

All ready removed new windshield that Grand Boat Yard in Alameda CA all ready screwed up royal. 1) windshield was 1/8 bigger than bedding hole 2) they drilled two holes in both bottom corners trying to get her to fit. 3) glue not stuck to glass only 50% showed signes of adheasion

It was evedint they had no idea that the windshield would expand up to 1/2 inch from heat of day till night time. And of course the windshield popped out on top seam where she was 1/8 bigger than the bedding hole. Windshield leaked water first rain before she popped out

All said and done I just ordered a case of 795 Dow. And I have a lot of questions

I have fiberglass cloth and mating. Smiths Layup and Laminating Epoxy Resin

Who can help with layup of bedding and applying 795 questions that I have.
Todd G.
renodancer@icloud.com

Paul Cossman · Jun 25, 2018

MS LITA said:
Who can help with layup of bedding and applying 795 questions that I have.
Todd G.
renodancer@icloud.com View attachment 152756

Hi Todd, if you do a search on the big boat forum I suspect you'll find many of your questions answered. I have a 1991 P 42, and I've done two rebeddings of the front windscreen (one a replacement and the second time a re-bed). Holler away with any additional questions on this thread and I'll be happy to answer them if I can!!

MS LITA · Jun 25, 2018

Thanks 1) how thick can the 795 be put on and do we put 795 on windshield 1st, too decrease any contamination ?
2) do we sand/scuff up poly first ?
3) do we need to put 795 down the wide middle strip ?

4) I measured close to 1/2 inch expansion from heat of day and sunshine to cool evening is this correct assumption ?
5) So how much gap should be around windshield and bedding lip .

6) I have the old windshield at home now and used belt sander to work the edge in looks good I can custom fit with belt sander , is that a correct assumption ?

7) I have to build up the bed where it is sagging / not matching windshield shape, even after pushing window down on bed ? Do I lay one layer of Fiberglass Mat then finish with strip of Fiberglass Cloth ? I was told this should be enough to build up bed ?.

8) Last ? How far should I sand down old bed ? What should I clean bed with before applying new resin?
One more ? What do you clean windshield with before applying 795 ?

MS LITA · Jun 25, 2018

MS LITA · Jun 25, 2018

MS LITA said:
View attachment 152768

Didn’t look like glue stuck to this corner

MS LITA · Jun 25, 2018

Looks like they sanded before applying glue

Paul Cossman · Jun 25, 2018

MS LITA said:
Thanks 1) how thick can the 795 be put on and do we put 795 on windshield 1st, too decrease any contamination ? I used an entire box of 795 for the windshield, so that kind of tells you how thick is good. The REAL KEY to this process is to make sure that you don't squeeze out too much 795, and make sure you don't have windscreen-to-fiberglass contact. You want it to seal correctly.
2) do we sand/scuff up poly first ? I sand both surfaces with a fine grit, and then clean with an appropriate non-residue-leaving cleaner--I use isopropyl
3) do we need to put 795 down the wide middle strip ? The factory didn't do that on mine. When I replaced my windscreen I did lay it down the middle strip so that it wouldn't bow upward from the support. I was concerned about support in heavy weather situations. But I doubt it's essential; I just like overkill.

4) I measured close to 1/2 inch expansion from heat of day and sunshine to cool evening is this correct assumption ? That is the REALLY BIG issue. The windscreen will bow in the middle in the direct sunlight, so it's best to try and do this on a relatively cool day and out of the sun. The last time I re-bedded I was in the hot sun and I couldn't match the screw holes. (Which I have come to believe is really not necessary).
5) So how much gap should be around windshield and bedding lip . It's going to be just whatever there is once you drop your windscreen into place. I try to "center" it for equal gap all the way around.
6) I have the old windshield at home now and used belt sander to work the edge in looks good I can custom fit with belt sander , is that a correct assumption ? My windscreen was a good fit, and I didn't need to modify, so I can't speak to that. I only had to drill the screw holes into the windscreen I purchased.

7) I have to build up the bed where it is sagging / not matching windshield shape, even after pushing window down on bed ? Do I lay one layer of Fiberglass Mat then finish with strip of Fiberglass Cloth ? I was told this should be enough to build up bed ?. It's hard for me to know the answer to that. I didn't have any fiberglass sag, but I made sure that there was enough 795 to fill everything in.

8) Last ? How far should I sand down old bed ? I only "etched" the bed with fine sandpaper. What should I clean bed with before applying new resin? For 795, I used isopropyl to clean surfaces on both the windscreen and the bed. If you're doing a fiberlass job on the bed, that is a different matter altogether. I'd follow the instructions for your particular resin brand. I generally use West and use acetone for cleaning and for treating the fresh fiberglass between additional coats of resin.
One more ? What do you clean windshield with before applying 795 ? I use isopropyl since it doesn't leave any film that will interfere with the 795

It's hard for me to tell from your photos, but that doesn't look like it's all 795 to me. 795 is not glue, but it does have adhesive qualities. That looks a bit like glue. Hmmmmmmmmm.

Anyway--good luck with your project!!!!

Cheers,
Paul

Paul Cossman · Jun 25, 2018

forgot to tell you--my responses are in the "quote" section of my reply. I just answered each question.

MS LITA · Jun 25, 2018

No, they did not use 795 they never herd of it Kickaflex not sure of spelling it works on thin side windows

Paul Cossman · Jun 25, 2018

MS LITA said:
No, they did not use 795 they never herd of it Kickaflex not sure of spelling it works on thin side windows

I'm guessing you're talking about Sikaflex. It's good stuff, but there are specific Sikaflex proprietary primers you have to use with it or it may not adhere properly. For that reason I shy away from it and use 795 on the hatches, scuttles, and ports as well.

MS LITA · Jun 25, 2018

Is that rubbing alcohol?

Paul Cossman · Jun 25, 2018

MS LITA said:
Is that rubbing alcohol?

I assume you're asking about isopropyl? Yes, it's the same thing as rubbing alcohol.

MS LITA · Jun 25, 2018

Paul Cossman said:
forgot to tell you--my responses are in the "quote" section of my reply. I just answered each question.

Not sure what screw holes you referenced my windshield had none but boat yard drilled one in each corner and cracked the glass on one hole plus the wind shield was 1/8” bigger in center than hole the next windshield we asked to make a little smaller and it fits good now 1/8 “ all around and more in couple corners. The boat yard glass guys used the canvas snap holes to mount wood blocks against window while drying this kept it centered during drying . Thanks for all your help will let everybody know how it comes out