Hunter 34 Traveler Control Ends

Jul 1, 2014
252
Hunter 34 Seattle
The sheaves on my traveler are shot. I'm unable to remove the screw that would allow me to replace, PB Blaster and an impact driver had no joy. I've read the H34s used some brand of traveler that is no longer available and I don't really want to try and get all the screws out of the track but can I replace the traveler control ends without replacing the track? The track measures about 37mm (1-7/16") in width and height.
 

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Gunni

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Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
Somewhere under that track you should have an access panel that will allow you to get at the other end of those track screws. Look for nuts and the ability to put some real torque on the fasteners. If you really want to hang onto that thing you might be able to change out the sheaves in the existing ends. But you will still be dealing with corroded fasteners and tight access.
 
Jul 1, 2014
252
Hunter 34 Seattle
I removed the ceiling panel and checked but there are no through bolts for the control ends or the track. The H34 has an elevated sea hood and the traveler sits on top of it. The control ends sit on a pedestal outside the sea hood but nothing shows on the cabin liner. There may be an embed plate that the control end and track are threaded into but hopefully I could get them off. I see some traveler control ends for tracks that are pretty close in size and was thinking I could just replace them with something that mated up pretty well.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,885
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
IMG_0616.JPG IMG_0622.JPG The large screws are threaded into aluminum plates that are embedded in the structure.. no need for nuts.. I disassembled my traveler ends and replaced the sheaves only. I was able to get new sheaves from APS..
You'll probably have to drill off the screw head and then get to the sheaves.. An impact driver should break them free.. https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
Use anti-seize on the threads of the new stainless screws when you re-assemble..
http://www.apsltd.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=sheaves+acetal
Remove the wheels and carefully measure .. Good Luck.. Garhauer may be a source as well..
The later model H-34's had a Schaefer system..
 
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Jan 5, 2018
187
Hunter H34 0828 New Orleans
Charlie, I just did this operation on my h34 on Sunday. One side was easy and the other not at all. PB Blaster etc... with no luck. I ended up grinding the head on the screw and turned it into a 2-sided nut. Then used very large vice grips and slowly worked it loose. I purchased all new hardware from the original manufacturer: Rutgerson Marine

After looking more closely at your picture, I see your track is a bit different from mine.
A94CA1A7-71F7-4AE8-B7D2-BFC93A746EB5.jpeg


This was a picture taken in process of installing new end...
 
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Jul 1, 2014
252
Hunter 34 Seattle
Thanks for the reply kloudie. Going through the archives here it seems there were a couple different setups that were put on these boats, does yours look like my photo? I tried an impact driver on the sheave screws and couldn't get them to budge. Are you saying those sheave screws continue into an embed or the 2 screws on the end that fasten to the pedestal? It looks like if those two are removed the end control will come off. Perhaps working from the bottom I could get the sheave screws out.
 
Jul 4, 2015
436
Hunter 34 Menominee, MI; Sturgeon Bay WI
2015 I replaced the whole traveller and was one of the best things (I did besides rebuilding most of the boat). The new set up is a joy to use and really effortless.
There are two towers at the end as seen with the sea hood removed. There is no access underneath to these two end screw bolts; the screws either need to come out or the heads ground off. The remaining traveller screws as I recall (my memory may not be entirely correct - there may have been an embedded retainer plate in the fiberglass which had to be drilled and tapped) had nuts on the under-surface that can only be accessed by removal of the entire sea hood which was an absolute bear but well worth it in the long run as it allowed a general cleanup and also replacement of the sliding hatch plexiglass and repair of the mechanism which squealed terribly (basically a rotted out wooden block).
On of my enclosed pictures shows the hood flipped upside down and you can see the screw holes all in a line.

Hope this helps. Ilan
 

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Nov 6, 2006
9,885
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Charlie, mine is different from yours.. (I see your impact driver in the picture) .. I had a couple of the big screw heads that stripped, kind of like the one in your picture.. I drilled the heads off with a left handed drill, removed the other traveler screws and pulled the traveler track bar off.. The long stubs of the screws with heads removed were then sticking up far enough to grab them and slowly work them out (PB Blaster could then get down to the threads in the embedded plate) without buggering the threads in the embedded plate.. I'm not familiar with your traveler, but it looks like the big screw in the end cover also is one of the hold-down screws for the track.. ya prolly going to have to remove the whole track and end fixtures to get things straight..
 

RoyS

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Jun 3, 2012
1,739
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
The next time you have a similar fastener release problem, an electric impact drill will work wonders. I have used these drills to remove stainless screws frozen in aluminum successfully several times. If you strip the screw head first by attempting to use regular hand tools then all bets are off. I have not used an impact driver like yours since about 1970 and cannot accurately compare to an electric impact drill.
 
Feb 18, 2019
5
Hunter 34 Panama city
I lost my boat in hurricane Michael it is being disposed I took those two rubber stops off marietta Georgia