Hunter 26 Spinnaker Pole Set Up
- Thread starter dgreen1991
- Start date
Don's spinnaker is symmetrical. It has a head and two clews. No tack. We pulled it out and looked at it. He has a block just above the forestay for the spinnaker halyard and he said he would put a halyard in. I've never flown a symmetrical spinnaker so I don't know how to help him. But dang it's gonna look cool once he gets it flying!
The cleats on the mast should be located on the mast at the gooseneck. You pull on the 2 horizontal lines you see going to the cleats on both sides and the lines store nicely parallel to the boom. After releasing the lazy jack halyard lines on both sides first. I may relocate them later. It looks like it will work fine where they are. thread the center of the cleat with the horizontal lines then stopper knot them and you can still cleat the lazy jack halyard lines on the same cleat. Now to install sail, test them, and my reefing set up.
You're missing the fore guy. You won't be able to control the pole's fore and aft position without it. The fore guy works best if you run it to a block on the center of the fore deck before sending it back to the cockpit, preferably near a winch. The fore guy and the afterguy(lazy sheet) counter act each other to set the pole perpendicular to the wind. If you don't want to rig a lower bridle you could attach an eyestrap in the center of the lower side of the pole for the fore guy.
Here's the very best advice you'll get on this subject..... practice with the boat tied to the dock until you're comfortable with the procedure and the equipment,
Here's the very best advice you'll get on this subject..... practice with the boat tied to the dock until you're comfortable with the procedure and the equipment,
Thank you for the help. Looks like the lower bridal is also missing from my pole. I think they may have used the block mounted on the port bow, and a line on the outward end of the pole, to pull down instead of a bridle. Is there a lot of upward force on the pole. It is just a small block attached with a 2 screw bimini strap type fitting. I think I will just run it up in the backyard and see if I can figure out how the previous owner did it. That drawing is simple and easy to see. Thanks so much. I will print this out.
Your mast ring is wrong. It needs to be turned 90 degrees.
Spin poles open jaws up (opening).
You can have a pole with one bridle, but it needs to be on the lower .
The foreguy is much more loaded than the topping lift, so it needs the support of a bridle.
Spin poles open jaws up (opening).
You can have a pole with one bridle, but it needs to be on the lower .
The foreguy is much more loaded than the topping lift, so it needs the support of a bridle.
I'll take Jackdaw's comment even further.... it isn't an actual mast ring but just a large eyestrap. Tis is a typical mast ring.
This is the type I have on my boat... it slides on a track to adjust pole height.
Take Jackdaw's suggestion and flip the pole over, attach bridle to foreguy, the top lift can be tied on with a rolling hitch until you get an eystrap or rig another bridle.
Your pole is designed for "end for end" jibing... so the top lift and foreguy must oppose each other... to allow the pole to be spun inside the fore triangle, switching the pole end for the sail end. The end for end pole has identical hardware and trip wires on both ends. Here's an example:
Only if you are "dip pole" jibing can you get away with the foreguy attached to the out board end of the pole.
In a dip pole jibe, which is more common on larger boats... the pole does not spin end for end... rather the inboard end is raised via the mast ring on a sliding car... so that the sail end of the pole can dip inside the forestay to the opposite side. It requires two crew on the fore deck... one to handle the mast car and the other to sit stand at the bow and clip in the new afterguy as the pole comes through.
This is the type I have on my boat... it slides on a track to adjust pole height.
Take Jackdaw's suggestion and flip the pole over, attach bridle to foreguy, the top lift can be tied on with a rolling hitch until you get an eystrap or rig another bridle.
Your pole is designed for "end for end" jibing... so the top lift and foreguy must oppose each other... to allow the pole to be spun inside the fore triangle, switching the pole end for the sail end. The end for end pole has identical hardware and trip wires on both ends. Here's an example:
Only if you are "dip pole" jibing can you get away with the foreguy attached to the out board end of the pole.
In a dip pole jibe, which is more common on larger boats... the pole does not spin end for end... rather the inboard end is raised via the mast ring on a sliding car... so that the sail end of the pole can dip inside the forestay to the opposite side. It requires two crew on the fore deck... one to handle the mast car and the other to sit stand at the bow and clip in the new afterguy as the pole comes through.
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The eyestrap may look like it will work but I think the pole needs to be able to rotate while attached. I don't think the eyestrap will allow that and might soon fail due to the excess forces that will build up.
If you can't release your main all the way to perpendicular because of the sweep of the spreaders maybe you should be looking at a symmetrical spinnaker which is better suited to deep reaches instead of DDW runs. The rigging is more simple as is the execution of hoists, douses and jibes.
If you can't release your main all the way to perpendicular because of the sweep of the spreaders maybe you should be looking at a symmetrical spinnaker which is better suited to deep reaches instead of DDW runs. The rigging is more simple as is the execution of hoists, douses and jibes.
I have seen that most jaws open on the bottom in videos I have viewed. But I don't think it is critical as the pole will pivot at the mast in both directions. I may change it later. It had to be rigged that way by the P.O.(previous owner). So flip the pole and tie the topping lift somehow. I just want to fly the thing for now. My C22 has the track etc.. but I never owned a spinnaker. I can add a bridal later after acquiring the parts and maybe a mast track after I determine it is needed. Can you tell me how to tie to the spinnaker pole? What Knot and where on the pole? Where should the foreguy block be? On my C22 there is a spring supported block centered between the bow and front of the mast mounted on the deck, nothing on my H26. There is a stainless tang with a hole on the bow near the furling drum. For now I am just trying figure out how the P.O. flew it. I'm thinking maybe a snatch block attached to the front of the mast base plate, stanchion or that tang may have been how it was done. None of those places are centered. I can see how centered would be desired; however, is it critical? What do you think? Hope the fixed ring on the mast on my H26 is the right height. I have no idea how the P.O. flew it. I will not have time to set it up properly so I was just hoping to figure out how the P.O. did it so I could give it a shot on a trip I am going on soon. Thanks in advance for your advice and assistance. I need to find some time to play around with the pole setup to see how it might have been done, however crappy of a set up it was. I will make it right once I get a little actual experience flying the thing so I ca see where things should go.
Look again, for spinnaker pole are jaws UP (opening up).
This is done so when the sheet end is tripped, the sheet will pull UP because it naturally wants to sky. Same thing on the mast end. The bowman just need to push up to lock it, and not lift it over and pull down.
This is done so when the sheet end is tripped, the sheet will pull UP because it naturally wants to sky. Same thing on the mast end. The bowman just need to push up to lock it, and not lift it over and pull down.
Makes sense. Thanks Jackdaw. Wonder what the P.O. was thinking. Looks like I will skip flying it this trip and set it right later.
OK, when all else fails refer to the owners manual. The owners manual does not show an after guy. The sheet runs through the pole. I will post a picture later. My spinnaker topping lift exits a lot higher than pictured. I hope that will not be a problem. My plan is to use a rolling hitch on the center of the pole for the spinnaker topping lift , thanks Joe. Place a block on the front of the mast base plate for the foreguy and then to a cleat about 4 feet up on the side of the mast (already there). I may not have it right for this trip but I really want to fly this thing and get some aerials with my drone or my kite cam. Thanks for all the help everyone, I will post some pics when I return. Now to research the track and/or mast ring.
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Hunter props, shafts, struts, and cutless bearings
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Replace for safety and appearance Hunter strainers and filters
For engines, gensets, AC, and more. Hunter gaskets for all!
Gaskets for ports, hatches, latches, speaker pods, refrigerators, freezers, more.
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