I'm replacing traveler system on my Hunter 26.5. I'm having difficulty finding parts. I THINK I need Schaefer 1 1/8" T-Track Control Block Double Sheave / Cam for port and starboard, and Schaefer 4 Wheel Car / Dual Sheave, all for 1 1/8" Track. Do you know if I'm correct in my choices here? Do you know where I might find exact new/used replacement parts?
Hunter 26.5 replacing traveler system
- Thread starter Skipthom
- Start date
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If all you need are new sheaves, I would contact Joy at Schaefer Marine (508-995-9511) about getting them replaced. They do repair work, and will be much cheaper than all new hardware.
Caverun: Thank you for that contact information sir. folks like you is what makes this forum great. Coming home with your boat anytime soon.
Hi Skipthon
I have a 26.5, it's a great boat, have added another block to the traveller car to increase the ratio to 4 to 1 . It makes adjusting the car position much easier in heavy weather.
I have a 26.5, it's a great boat, have added another block to the traveller car to increase the ratio to 4 to 1 . It makes adjusting the car position much easier in heavy weather.
I didn't see this post when you first made it and it sounds like you already made this modification. I have the Schaefer 1-1/8" track and purchased these components directly thru the Schaefer website about 10 years ago. I replaced a pin stop system and it has been a huge improvement. They were expensive buying this way! I'd bet you can find these components at numerous chandleries.
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I'm surprised all cam cleats on travellers don't have fairleads or eye straps across them. I added them last season. It's much easier to get the line back into the cleat after an adjustment. Especially singlehanding when you have to get back to the helm. Mine look something like this
Justin_nsa;
All my travelers regardless had straps or eye pads placed on top of any cam cleats for the very reason you stated. All my customers liked that idea.
All my travelers regardless had straps or eye pads placed on top of any cam cleats for the very reason you stated. All my customers liked that idea.
It's a problem if I stub my toe on it. Granted, the assembly is still a toe catcher, but there is no need to add additional trip hazard. It's in a location close to where I step.
Straps definitely help keep the lines in place, I actually moved the cleats back onto the side closer to the helm so that the helmsman could adjust the traveller without trying to reach across the boat or through any crew in the cockpit. It took a few extra turning blocks to do this.
Oddly enough, my traveler works best when I'm behind the wheel and it is more awkward to use when I'm in front of the wheel. The key is that I place both lines on the seat leading back so that I can easily grab the lines. The only problem I have with this arrangement is that anybody sitting in the cockpit is interference. In fact, if you have passengers instead of active crew, I would recommend avoiding a traveler in the cockpit.
From behind the wheel, the lines engage the cleat easily. If my hands are too close to the cleat, like when I'm in front of the wheel, I often skin my knuckles on those hinges (and those babies are sharp!). I've left a lot of blood in the cockpit from those hinges. Someday, I'm going to replace them with hinges that have rounded edges.
From behind the wheel, the lines engage the cleat easily. If my hands are too close to the cleat, like when I'm in front of the wheel, I often skin my knuckles on those hinges (and those babies are sharp!). I've left a lot of blood in the cockpit from those hinges. Someday, I'm going to replace them with hinges that have rounded edges.
If you run the lines using blocks so that they are basically at the back of the cockpit seats then you can adjust the traveller from the helm (behind the wheel) without interference from the crew. This works well for me as the crew are busy handling the jib sheets when we need to pull up the traveller during each tack.
On my set-up that wouldn't work because the line has to be lower than the cleat for the cleat to engage. It works well for me because I have a t-shaped well at the wheel. I can snap the line downward more easily at the well than I can at the seat, where I skin my knuckles. If I used fairleads or blocks on the back of the seat, the line would not engage the cleat because there would be no downward angle on the line. Also, I would not be able to release the line from the cleat, either! 
For that matter, the line exits the block right behind the cleat ... I can't see how a strap adds any convenience either.
For that matter, the line exits the block right behind the cleat ... I can't see how a strap adds any convenience either.
I see where you are coming from, makes sense, I forgot to say I eliminated the original traveller cleat and replaced it with a turning block. I put a cam cleat where it was convenient at the helm. I'd send a photo, but boats under a pile of snow
Ah, that makes a difference.I forgot to say I eliminated the original traveller cleat and replaced it with a turning block. I put a cam cleat where it was convenient at the helm. I'd send a photo, but boats under a pile of snow
Lucky you! You have winter! We missed it this year.
You're very welcome to ours, it's been pretty warm, except last night went down to -20C and 6 inches of snow, I'm really ready for summer!