Hunter 170 with some cracks, Looking to buy and have no clue...
- Thread starter Shorefun
- Start date
That's what was on my 170 when I got it. It seemed strange to me too.
That boat would benefit from having a spinnaker. The way that the back stay geometry is set up, I can't let the main out as far as I would like to on a downwind run. Your effective downwind sail area is limited without the chute. Conversely, that boat screeches when she reaches. I've had her up on plane more than a few times.
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Above the slot where the mainsail goes in you will see a hole. That cotter pin slides thru the hole to act as a mainsail stop so the bottom of the sail will not fall out.
Bobbyfun, you specifically told people do not listen to me. Further you now say names. I will not do that nor ever say names but merely give advice based on experience and knowledge which I am told many follow me. I wish you could do the same as you can be a good contributor helping fellow sailors which is all I am doing. You have no idea what my contributions to the marine industry have been nor will expound on that either.
Bobbyfun, you specifically told people do not listen to me. Further you now say names. I will not do that nor ever say names but merely give advice based on experience and knowledge which I am told many follow me. I wish you could do the same as you can be a good contributor helping fellow sailors which is all I am doing. You have no idea what my contributions to the marine industry have been nor will expound on that either.
Shorefun,
Congratulations on purchasing you new boat!
As for the roller-furling jib, the blue sunbrella canvas should be on the OUTSIDE when the jib is furled. This will protect the white dacron from the sun and elements. The trick is to have no white showing when the jib is furled. if its currently on the inside, just unroll the jib in the back yard and roll it up the correct way. take the line out if the furler and wind it up the correct way if necessary.
For the main sail on a boat of this size I'd roll it and take it off the boat when not in use. It will prolong the life of the sail - keeps costs down.
I'd also keep the spinnaker. This will be the best boat to learn on. some cheap rope for the sheets and a few blocks on deck from west marine should do the trick
Congratulations on purchasing you new boat!
As for the roller-furling jib, the blue sunbrella canvas should be on the OUTSIDE when the jib is furled. This will protect the white dacron from the sun and elements. The trick is to have no white showing when the jib is furled. if its currently on the inside, just unroll the jib in the back yard and roll it up the correct way. take the line out if the furler and wind it up the correct way if necessary.
For the main sail on a boat of this size I'd roll it and take it off the boat when not in use. It will prolong the life of the sail - keeps costs down.
I'd also keep the spinnaker. This will be the best boat to learn on. some cheap rope for the sheets and a few blocks on deck from west marine should do the trick
Dave, lighten up. It was a joke. My apologies if you felt smeared somehow.
Did not sound like a joke to others but please in the future refrain. Maybe a picture like the cat hearing to music. You have been a good contributor and that is how to get around this. Hey, I am looney as a bin per Kermit while he slurps that long green tongue for flies
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When I first read Bobby's post about not keeping the chute, I read it as tongue in cheek humor. I read it as meaning that Bobby wishes he had that sail for his boat, but was trying to crack a joke about it rather than actually swindle the other guy out of it.
I think that "don't listen to Dave", could have been replaced with "no, no, sell it to me" & the intended meaning would have been the same.
Maybe joking around like that is just a South Florida thing? Maybe it doesn't translate well elsewhere?
I think that "don't listen to Dave", could have been replaced with "no, no, sell it to me" & the intended meaning would have been the same.
Maybe joking around like that is just a South Florida thing? Maybe it doesn't translate well elsewhere?
So it stopped raining. I took the cover off to see what I had. I will have to put more picts in the next message.
The most concerning item is the floor. Starboard side in the area from the main sheet block to the area of the center board it feels like the foam/inner fiber glass is broken parallel to the length of the hull. The floor I am guessing should feel flat but it feels a bit depressed. If you put your feet on floor on either side of the center you can rock back and forth. The plastic shell is debonded on the port side by feels flat across.
Up into the forward area is a crack on the port side the goes all the way down into the storage area. The plastic is not bonded to the foam in the area too. Then there the cracks around the various mounts. All the structure items seem firmly mounted even with the cracks. At least just moving them with my hands.
The most concerning item is the floor. Starboard side in the area from the main sheet block to the area of the center board it feels like the foam/inner fiber glass is broken parallel to the length of the hull. The floor I am guessing should feel flat but it feels a bit depressed. If you put your feet on floor on either side of the center you can rock back and forth. The plastic shell is debonded on the port side by feels flat across.
Up into the forward area is a crack on the port side the goes all the way down into the storage area. The plastic is not bonded to the foam in the area too. Then there the cracks around the various mounts. All the structure items seem firmly mounted even with the cracks. At least just moving them with my hands.
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Here are some more pictures. If I am pointing to something that means the outer hull is not bonded to the foam underneath.
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When you feel the floor has separated as described above, do not sweat. I told Hunter my solution. Every two feet to one foot, drill a 3/3 or 1/2 inch holes. Then pour as much as you can of Gorilla Glue down into the holes and spread with the tip of an air hose around. You may have to add more but more the better. Then lay boards on the affected area and place weight on it like lead, concrete blocks and so on and let dry for 24 hours long if in cold weather. Remove and fill holes with Plexus and then wet sand. You may have to fill in a little more to get the plexus level with the floor. Then prep and spray with Krylon plastic paint.
When covering any of the ACP boats folks, please use a white or gray cover or light cover color as the darker colors create more heat and leave the drain plug on the back of the boat transom open to allow the boat to breath and to avoid pressures building up. On the cover, make sure you have a vent or two in the covers.
When covering any of the ACP boats folks, please use a white or gray cover or light cover color as the darker colors create more heat and leave the drain plug on the back of the boat transom open to allow the boat to breath and to avoid pressures building up. On the cover, make sure you have a vent or two in the covers.
Dave, How does that cure? GG is a moisture-curing polyurethane. That plan allows for no moisture ingress.
I am a very inquisitive guy and like to know how things work. I plan on getting some Gorilla glue and see how it fills spaces.
If I understand properly:
The process is to drill something like a 1/2" hole in areas where there is flex like the structure is gone like on the starboard side of my Hunter. Then squeeze the gorilla glue into the hole and put a air chuck on and pressure it out further. Then repeat till the hole is filled.
Do I get that right?
What about the places that the plastic is not stuck to the foam, but the foam is solid like on the port side of my Hunter?
For cracks the recommended method is to use the MA300. Open cut the crack like 1" wide and bevel so fiberglass can be used. Put a layer of fiberglass in under the plastic, which was dug out some. Then proceed to build up the fiberglass till level.
How much Plexus MA400 should I buy? Which size? I see there are 50mL and 400mL packages. Is there a best place to buy?
The devil is always in the details. I like to learn from other peoples experience.
Thanks!
If I understand properly:
The process is to drill something like a 1/2" hole in areas where there is flex like the structure is gone like on the starboard side of my Hunter. Then squeeze the gorilla glue into the hole and put a air chuck on and pressure it out further. Then repeat till the hole is filled.
Do I get that right?
What about the places that the plastic is not stuck to the foam, but the foam is solid like on the port side of my Hunter?
For cracks the recommended method is to use the MA300. Open cut the crack like 1" wide and bevel so fiberglass can be used. Put a layer of fiberglass in under the plastic, which was dug out some. Then proceed to build up the fiberglass till level.
How much Plexus MA400 should I buy? Which size? I see there are 50mL and 400mL packages. Is there a best place to buy?
The devil is always in the details. I like to learn from other peoples experience.
Thanks!
Here's a copy of the Owners manual if you don't have one already. It's for 2008 but should be the same?
https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/Owners-Manuals/170 Owner's Manual 2008.pdf
https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/Owners-Manuals/170 Owner's Manual 2008.pdf
Thats a lot of repairs. Would the repairs be stronger with some system of "dovetails". Not sure how to get glass cloth between foam and outer shell.
Hull looks bad enough to just never fix. Just epoxy the cracks that could hurt people during sailing.
You could cold-mold your own hull for what youll pay in plexus time and paint.
Hull looks bad enough to just never fix. Just epoxy the cracks that could hurt people during sailing.
You could cold-mold your own hull for what youll pay in plexus time and paint.
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One thing i saw....
The line for the centerboard should have a metal shackle. The mast tabernackle is about to cut through. The centerboard pits alot of strain on that system. ESPECIALLY on road trips if you dont rest the centerboad on a rubber roller.
Speaking of trailers...tires are dead after 5 years. Check the time stamp. Walmart has repkacements for tire and rim.
The line for the centerboard should have a metal shackle. The mast tabernackle is about to cut through. The centerboard pits alot of strain on that system. ESPECIALLY on road trips if you dont rest the centerboad on a rubber roller.
Speaking of trailers...tires are dead after 5 years. Check the time stamp. Walmart has repkacements for tire and rim.
Hey Dave...
On my 170 there are a couple minor stress cracks on the topside "clamshell", but the bottom is absolutly perfect with no cracks. Were they built together using the same process? I dont hardly see any 170s with cracks below the rub rail.
On my 170 there are a couple minor stress cracks on the topside "clamshell", but the bottom is absolutly perfect with no cracks. Were they built together using the same process? I dont hardly see any 170s with cracks below the rub rail.
There are several types of gorilla glue, the expansion one does require water / moisture to activate and work. I'd get clarification on the type you are suppose to use.
https://www.gorillatough.com/
https://www.gorillatough.com/
Tires are on the list of replacements. They both are dry rotted. Lucky for us the trip home was cool and wet. We had a lot of people pass us at 55 down the parkway.
Good catch on the center board line I will correct that. I will also see about a roller at the centerboard area.
I am looking into how I will approach the repairs. I need to look for a source of white non-skid (let me know if you have an idea). I have found some deals on the Plexus MA300 and low cost applicator for the 50mL. The Gorilla glue for the floor makes life simpler from what I was thinking I need to do. I feel getting the floor stiffer is important for long term.
I just would like to make sure people understand that the starboard side floor area seems to have the foam loose/ broken/ pulled away. As compared to the port side where the Luran is just no longer glued to the foam.
I am curious if I should get some empty caulking tubes. Fill them with gorilla glue and inject that into the hole in the floor. Maybe have holes near by and fill until it comes out surrounding holes then weigh down with flat item and weights.
Honestly I look at the boat as very usable as is with mostly cosmetic issues from the cracks. I can slowly do repairs as I figure out the better ways. This is a very doable project with the goal of a few years of learning how to sail and see if we like it.
Good catch on the center board line I will correct that. I will also see about a roller at the centerboard area.
I am looking into how I will approach the repairs. I need to look for a source of white non-skid (let me know if you have an idea). I have found some deals on the Plexus MA300 and low cost applicator for the 50mL. The Gorilla glue for the floor makes life simpler from what I was thinking I need to do. I feel getting the floor stiffer is important for long term.
I just would like to make sure people understand that the starboard side floor area seems to have the foam loose/ broken/ pulled away. As compared to the port side where the Luran is just no longer glued to the foam.
I am curious if I should get some empty caulking tubes. Fill them with gorilla glue and inject that into the hole in the floor. Maybe have holes near by and fill until it comes out surrounding holes then weigh down with flat item and weights.
Honestly I look at the boat as very usable as is with mostly cosmetic issues from the cracks. I can slowly do repairs as I figure out the better ways. This is a very doable project with the goal of a few years of learning how to sail and see if we like it.
Ive got some soft spots under the grip tape as well. Either the foam degrades or compresses. Once compressed, the hard plastic shell separates from the foam and leaves a gap.
In my mind a good fix fills all the gaps and attaches the skin back to new foam/filler without pulling the skin down.