All stainless screws on spar of my boat were all seized because of the electrolysis. I have tried WD-40 but it doesn't help (no penetration at all.) Can anyone provide advise how to undo those stainless screws so the corrosion caused by electrolysis can be fixed? Any advise of how to prevent aluminum from electolysis corrosion around stainless screws also highly appreciated.
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Jack Tyler
Removing & preventing...
JP, here's what's worked for me but I'll confess up front that some stainless fasteners on some aluminum spars - my spars are 23 yrs old, made back when no one bothered to think about later fastener removal - are unlikely to ever come out in one piece. First, stop by the auto store for PB Blaster, a penetrant that the tradesman here and elsewhere in the country swear by. It's cheap and works well. On your way to the boat, pick up an impact screw driver if you don't already have one. Make sure you have a selection of bits that will nicely, snugly fit the fasteners you need to remove. You'll need a 3-5# hammer (ball peen is best) with which to strike the impact screw driver, too. Second, using rags or paper towels to protect the gelcoat, sails, canvas, etc. from overspray, liberally spray each of the fasteners needing removal. Don't just hose them down, but rather direct the spray from all angles. Do NOT try removing them; instead, let the penetrant work for a day or so. Then set up the screw driver to reverse (back out) the fastener and begin removing it with strong, well aimed blows, hammer on screw driver. This is when 'steady' wins the race. I can't do this with a 5# hammer - too heavy for me, for sustained work - so think about maintaining good control over an extended period when selecting your hammer. Note the fastener's orientation before first striking it, so you can quickly determine if it's moving or not. After 5-8 solid blows, if it isn't moving, you spray again and move on to the next one - I've had to spray multiple days before finally getting some to begin unscrewing. You'll find it especially difficult to remove stainless fasteners that penetrate an aluminum fitting (e.g. cleat) before entering the aluminum spar - you've got two bodies each working their magic on that fastener. Ultimately, I've had to drill out a few fasteners - occasionally, you'll rotate the heads right off their shanks - but that's unavoidable in my experience. To eliminate this in the future, use Tef-Gel - it is a wonder product. It's expensive but only a very small amount is needed. Manufacturers like Sailomat are using this today and it elminates galvanic corrosion very well. We used to be able to buy this from West Marine but, in the kind of move I find disappointing for a company with their integrity, they now market a spin-off product (Tek-Gel...gee, did they rip off a trade name, or what?!) that is far inferior. I order my Tef-Gel from Brion Toss' web store (www.briontoss.com), where you'll also find discussions on this fastener removal topic in the Spartalk archives. (The "big" tube of Tef-Gel lasted me four years and a lot of refurbishing projects; don't let the cost scare you away from this very effective product). Good luck! Patience, strength, craftiness and the right tools are your allies. Jack
JP, here's what's worked for me but I'll confess up front that some stainless fasteners on some aluminum spars - my spars are 23 yrs old, made back when no one bothered to think about later fastener removal - are unlikely to ever come out in one piece. First, stop by the auto store for PB Blaster, a penetrant that the tradesman here and elsewhere in the country swear by. It's cheap and works well. On your way to the boat, pick up an impact screw driver if you don't already have one. Make sure you have a selection of bits that will nicely, snugly fit the fasteners you need to remove. You'll need a 3-5# hammer (ball peen is best) with which to strike the impact screw driver, too. Second, using rags or paper towels to protect the gelcoat, sails, canvas, etc. from overspray, liberally spray each of the fasteners needing removal. Don't just hose them down, but rather direct the spray from all angles. Do NOT try removing them; instead, let the penetrant work for a day or so. Then set up the screw driver to reverse (back out) the fastener and begin removing it with strong, well aimed blows, hammer on screw driver. This is when 'steady' wins the race. I can't do this with a 5# hammer - too heavy for me, for sustained work - so think about maintaining good control over an extended period when selecting your hammer. Note the fastener's orientation before first striking it, so you can quickly determine if it's moving or not. After 5-8 solid blows, if it isn't moving, you spray again and move on to the next one - I've had to spray multiple days before finally getting some to begin unscrewing. You'll find it especially difficult to remove stainless fasteners that penetrate an aluminum fitting (e.g. cleat) before entering the aluminum spar - you've got two bodies each working their magic on that fastener. Ultimately, I've had to drill out a few fasteners - occasionally, you'll rotate the heads right off their shanks - but that's unavoidable in my experience. To eliminate this in the future, use Tef-Gel - it is a wonder product. It's expensive but only a very small amount is needed. Manufacturers like Sailomat are using this today and it elminates galvanic corrosion very well. We used to be able to buy this from West Marine but, in the kind of move I find disappointing for a company with their integrity, they now market a spin-off product (Tek-Gel...gee, did they rip off a trade name, or what?!) that is far inferior. I order my Tef-Gel from Brion Toss' web store (www.briontoss.com), where you'll also find discussions on this fastener removal topic in the Spartalk archives. (The "big" tube of Tef-Gel lasted me four years and a lot of refurbishing projects; don't let the cost scare you away from this very effective product). Good luck! Patience, strength, craftiness and the right tools are your allies. Jack
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Terry Arnold
removing small screws
Jack's techniques outlined so well worked for me in rebuilding the 22 year old Kenyon spar for my H33. Seemingly impossible at first, the PB blaster and time and patience got all of the larger fasteners loose. I twisted off several of the #10 screws fastening the boom end caps to the boom. In this case, drilling and retapping at a location just adjacent to the original fastener did the job.
Jack's techniques outlined so well worked for me in rebuilding the 22 year old Kenyon spar for my H33. Seemingly impossible at first, the PB blaster and time and patience got all of the larger fasteners loose. I twisted off several of the #10 screws fastening the boom end caps to the boom. In this case, drilling and retapping at a location just adjacent to the original fastener did the job.
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Del Wiese
an alternative
An alternative is to use aluminum pop rivets where ever possible. I've heard that they make stainless pop rivets but have not personally verified this.
An alternative is to use aluminum pop rivets where ever possible. I've heard that they make stainless pop rivets but have not personally verified this.
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Steve O.
pop rivets
They do make stainless pop rivets and I would highly recommend them. While they would eliminate the galvanic corrosion problem, aluminum rivets are not strong enough for the loads on your spars. You have to drill out rivets to remove them anyway, so no big deal there.
They do make stainless pop rivets and I would highly recommend them. While they would eliminate the galvanic corrosion problem, aluminum rivets are not strong enough for the loads on your spars. You have to drill out rivets to remove them anyway, so no big deal there.
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Rick Webb
All Good Suggestions
I'll add mine anyway. The fastners are all toast anyway. I have found the best way to deal with screws of this sort is to drill them out. Look for left handed drill bits and get a couple of them. Occaisionally the drill will unscrew the fastner. After the heads are drilled off a good pair of vise grips will twist the rest off.
I'll add mine anyway. The fastners are all toast anyway. I have found the best way to deal with screws of this sort is to drill them out. Look for left handed drill bits and get a couple of them. Occaisionally the drill will unscrew the fastner. After the heads are drilled off a good pair of vise grips will twist the rest off.
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JP
Big thnaks for all you folks!!
Big thnaks for all you folks!! What a wonderful site here we sailors got.
Big thnaks for all you folks!! What a wonderful site here we sailors got.
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neil walters
Seized stainless
Try spraying them with PB Blaster. You get it at auto supply stores. Works great on rust .
Try spraying them with PB Blaster. You get it at auto supply stores. Works great on rust .
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David Stone
Pop rivets
Are also made of Monel. They will help if not eliminate corrosion. I've heard you need a hydraulic rivet gun to pull the ones big enough for any real loads. I've never used them but a friend used to on his C15.
Are also made of Monel. They will help if not eliminate corrosion. I've heard you need a hydraulic rivet gun to pull the ones big enough for any real loads. I've never used them but a friend used to on his C15.
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Jack Tyler
Suggest a visit to good tool or fastener store...
You'll find several different varieties of rivet guns that rely on nothing but leverage and upper arm strength. These will place a 3/16" or 1/4" stainless rivet while you sit in a chair up the mast, certainly not the best position for working. Jack
You'll find several different varieties of rivet guns that rely on nothing but leverage and upper arm strength. These will place a 3/16" or 1/4" stainless rivet while you sit in a chair up the mast, certainly not the best position for working. Jack
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Jerry Anderson
Coca Cola
My wisker pole pin seized, Nothing would free it. Then a buddy said "soak it in Coke...!! I did and it worked.. Stainless pin alunimum pole!! Thats Coca cola JDA
My wisker pole pin seized, Nothing would free it. Then a buddy said "soak it in Coke...!! I did and it worked.. Stainless pin alunimum pole!! Thats Coca cola JDA
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Skip Merrill
PB Blaster
While I have not used it on my Catalina, I use it exclusively in my farm shop. PB Blaster is by far the best penetrating fluid that I've used on any stuck screw or nut. It's available at our local NAPA stores. Good Luck. Skip
While I have not used it on my Catalina, I use it exclusively in my farm shop. PB Blaster is by far the best penetrating fluid that I've used on any stuck screw or nut. It's available at our local NAPA stores. Good Luck. Skip
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Skip
PB Blaster warning
It's great stuff for freeing stuck screws, but I found out the hard way that it eats up certain types of plastics. Make sure you don't get it on any hard to replace plastic parts.
It's great stuff for freeing stuck screws, but I found out the hard way that it eats up certain types of plastics. Make sure you don't get it on any hard to replace plastic parts.
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John Visser
Heat
Heat works. Easiest way is to "weld" them loose, using a couple of big cables to your house batteries. Ground the mast and touch the positive to the fastner. The oxide (corrosion) wil provide enough resistance that the joint will heat up quickly. Then crank on it before it cools. However, ...I perfer the left-handed drill bit method. Is it not needless to say - the proper size screwdriver (or bit) is essential to this. jv
Heat works. Easiest way is to "weld" them loose, using a couple of big cables to your house batteries. Ground the mast and touch the positive to the fastner. The oxide (corrosion) wil provide enough resistance that the joint will heat up quickly. Then crank on it before it cools. However, ...I perfer the left-handed drill bit method. Is it not needless to say - the proper size screwdriver (or bit) is essential to this. jv
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