How to properly RAISE a woven dacron mainsail

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RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
HOW to properly RAISE a DACRON Mainsail !!!!!!!!

Woven dacron mainsails are the most commonly found mainsails on ‘cruising’ boats. If you ‘just raise’ a woven dacron mainsail, you’ll most probably have sail trim and shape problems, problems that can adversely affect a boats performance, ‘helm balance’ and ultimately safety.

The following will outline what added steps are needed after a ‘boltroped’ dacron sail is raised - to get the ‘best’ out of the sail so you can have a ‘more forgiving’ and ‘less cranky’ boat.
Note – these directions are NOT for mainsails that are on in-mast roller furlers nor mainsails made of ‘laminates’.

Boltropes - theory.
Most woven dacron mainsails have a ‘boltrope’ at the luff; and, there are certain additional steps that should be taken after you ‘just raise’ such a sail, ......... as the ‘as designed shape’ of the raised sail depends a LOT on the tension in that boltrope.
The boltrope is a 3 strand dacron rope inside a ‘sleeve’ at the luff and it’s there to prevent the sail’s luff from ‘overstretching’ at the higher windranges – typically when the windstrength goes well above 12-15 kts. A woven dacron sail, without a boltrope will have the point of maximum draft constantly change its position, either fore or aft, with differing windstrengths; in light winds the draft will ‘go forward’ and in heavy winds the point of maximum draft will ‘go aft’. The boltrope is added to keep the point of maximum draft essentially in ‘one place’ under different windstrengths and to help keep the sail shape from stretching ‘all over the place’ under varying wind-loading.
When making such a sail, the sailmaker will purposely cut the boltrope a wee bit shorter than the ‘designed’ luff length, usually (for a sail typically designed for sailing in approx.15 kts.) will cut the boltrope shorter by approximately 1” for every 10-11 feet. of luff length. – this is called ‘boltrope preload’. So, to get to the ‘as designed’ luff length when raising such a sail, that boltrope has to be additionally stretched-out (by additional halyard tension, etc.) or the sail will not be ‘stretched’ to its intended ‘as designed’ SHAPE.

Boltropes – practicality.
For the sailor, this means that if you ‘just raise’ such a sail and want to sail in 12-15kts., the luff will be physically shorter than the ‘design’ by approximately 1” for every 10-11ft. of luff length; ..... therefore, you need to additionally ‘stretch out’ that boltrope so that the sail takes on its as DESIGNED shape!!!!!!!!!!
Without stretching out this ‘pre-load’ after ‘raising’ the sail, the sail will be draft-aft, ‘baggy’, too much draft, and the aft sections of the sail (leech) will be somewhat ‘hooked up to weather’ – all shapes that promote aggressive heeling, ‘powered-up but exceptionally slow’, poor ‘pointing’ ability, increased “weather helm”, etc. ..... very ‘cranky’ boat!!!

Remedy (Rx):
Raise the sail to just ‘up’, then apply an approximate additional 1” inch of HALYARD (and ‘cunningham’ if you have one) strain for every 10 ft. of luff length. Then go sailing on a hard BEAT to WINDWARD and notice the helm pressure (so-called ‘weather helm’). Crank on more (or less) HALYARD tension until you can take your hands OFF the wheel/tiller ... and have the boat go in a straight line (no heading up or down), all by itself — called a ‘dead fish neutral helm’. Then, slightly RELEASE some halyard tension until the boat ‘s-l-o-w-l-y’ heads up when you release the wheel/tiller ... the boat will now be FAST, wont heel as much as before, and will ‘point like banshee’. The sail will now have its point of maximum draft positioned correctly for the current wind and wave conditions ..... and you will better enjoy yourself.

Shrinking Boltropes .... a 'problem' with aged sails.
Dacron boltropes change shape over time and depending on HOW MANY TIMES they get ‘stretched-out’ ... and they progressively and additively get shorter and fatter. So, if it takes an immense amount of halyard tension to get to the ‘neutral helm’, etc., consider to take your mainsail to a sailmaker to get the boltrope adjusted or ‘eased’. Easing the boltrope will quickly and cost effectively bring an old ‘baggy’, powered-up, draft-aft sail ‘back to life and proper SHAPE’ ... and usually at minimal cost.
Another way to check for a shrunken boltrope: on a windless day, raise the sail to ‘just up’, add the additional 1” / 10-11 ft. of luff length by added halyard tension, then check the angle that the top of the boom makes with the mast at the gooseneck. If that angle is much greater than 90 degrees ... say 95 to 100 degrees, it means that the boltrope has shrunken and should to be readjusted or ‘eased’.

Most boats with ‘shrunken boltropes, or improperly raised boltroped mainsails, will visually have the aft end of the boom LOWER than the gooseneck!!!! .... probably 95% of all cruisers & ‘non-racing’ sailors will have a ‘droopy’ aft section of their boom.

Once you have the proper basic ‘as designed’ SHAPE in your mainsail by properly RAISING it, etc. (by stretching out that boltrope!!!!) which brings the point of maximum draft to the ‘correct’ fore/aft position, all the ‘other trim and shaping’ efforts will be ‘much’ easier and more ‘effortless’.
 

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Feb 26, 2004
22,770
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
The August 2006 Mainsheet magazine had a good article by two different skippers on boltrope issues. Their read was that the shorter boltrope could be cut by a sail maker near and just above the tack cringle and spliced. Those of you with access to our Tech Notes Online on our C34 website (you need to be a C34IA member to have the password for access) can read it, others may actually have the hard copies.

Good post, thanks.
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
"the shorter boltrope could be cut by a sail maker near and just above the tack cringle and spliced" Its really easier to do the (long) splice up near the head of the sail.

Best of all is to have the original boltrope made 'extra long' and the extra length 'stored' at the head (all ready to go when the need arises to 'adjust').... then all you have to do is cut the sail twine binding, remeasure and re-set the correct boltrope length, and re-sew the boltrope up near the head. Simple/fast and any DIYer with a needle and sewing palm can do it.
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
Rasing a sail

IF your main has a less than 90 degree angle at the tack you MUST also loosen the sheet to stretch the luft boltrope. The outhaul will also need loosened when you drop the sail if you have it overly tight.
A mainsail with a tack angle less than 90 degrees will necessarily have to have the boom end rise just to get the luft to go fully up. So you have to have the main sheet loose to do what RichH is suggesting.

also
The foot of the sail can be broken into two parts by extending a line perpindicular to the mast from the boom end. The little triangle below the line has the following propertie; the foot is longer than the perpindicular line. When you dorp the sail this perpindicular line moves down at the luft end and at the boom end which tries to stretch it. That is why you have a jackline on most sails. The jack line is the lower portion of the luft bolt rope that is "loose" from the sail proper. If you don't have a loose line like that then loosening up the outhaul is required.
Yes the sail will drop but it tends to stretch the fabric and make the sail prematurly baggy.
FWIW
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
"So you have to have the main sheet loose to do what RichH is suggesting."
..... and the vang loose also when you raise the sail.

So to get this correct .... you need to loosen the vang AND the mainsheet when raising such a sail.

Also, if such a sail is properly raised so that the boltrope 'pre-load' is properly stretched-out, you can at most times set the traveller AT the center and the sail will 95% be properly 'twisted' at the head in 12-15 kts. of wind with only moderate mainsheet tension applied ..... because thats how such sails are 'designed'. But of course, your tell tales will validate this or will show which 'small corrections' may be needed.
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
Yep, the vang too

Right RichH
I agree you can get away with that if you don't tighten the mainsheet to keep the boom from moving around while at anchor/in slip. I'm one of those "don't be afraid to pull hard on the lines" guys and as such I try unload where possible to get the tension right then reload the rest of the sail till twist, entry angle.... is correct
If you tighten the mainsheet or vang AND have a tack angle much less that 85 degrees you will probably rip the leach tightning the luft bolt rope. Unless you have a jackline or loosen the mainsheet there is going to be some enormous stress on the luft. That would be a bummer.
I personally just rase the mainsail head to the balck band and use the cunningham to tighten the luft bolt rope but my sail is still in pretty good shape.
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
but but but putting tension on the cunningham wont necessarily put any tension on the boltrope!!!! Cunninghams are attached to the sail fabric hence the 'sleeve' which covers the boltrope .... and when pulled, the boltrope *sleeve* (and adjacent fabric) is moved, but not the boltrope (other than by incidental friction). Boltrope tension and cunningham tension are entirely different, the cunningham NOT changing the full 'luff dimension'.

Unless you accurately located the 'black band' with respect to the 'as built' luff dimensions PLUS the calculated 'pre-load', the black band wont be an accurate means to visualize the 'stretch-out'. The black bands are there for 'class rules' which dictate the 'maximum' luff (total SA) dimensions and in accordance to 'class rules'. Sailmakers when lofting cruising sails ... arent that accurate.

If the boat was 'admeasured' (got its black bands position validated by a class 'handicapper') to 'some class rule', the cunningham will allow essentially the same shape adjustment as stretching out the boltrope. However, using the cunningham will allow those 'adjustments' to be made .... and without exceeding the distance between the 'black bands', and the shape 'below' the cunningham often becomes 'distorted'.
 
Apr 29, 2010
209
MacGregor m25 Erieau, Ontario, Canada
HOW to properly RAISE a DACRON Mainsail !!!!!!!!

Woven dacron mainsails are the most commonly found mainsails on ‘cruising’ boats. If you ‘just raise’ a woven dacron mainsail, you’ll most probably have sail trim and shape problems, problems that can adversely affect a boats performance, ‘helm balance’ and ultimately safety.

The following will outline what added steps are needed after a ‘boltroped’ dacron sail is raised - to get the ‘best’ out of the sail so you can have a ‘more forgiving’ and ‘less cranky’ boat.
Note – these directions are NOT for mainsails that are on in-mast roller furlers nor mainsails made of ‘laminates’.

Boltropes - theory.
Most woven dacron mainsails have a ‘boltrope’ at the luff; and, there are certain additional steps that should be taken after you ‘just raise’ such a sail, ......... as the ‘as designed shape’ of the raised sail depends a LOT on the tension in that boltrope.
The boltrope is a 3 strand dacron rope inside a ‘sleeve’ at the luff and it’s there to prevent the sail’s luff from ‘overstretching’ at the higher windranges – typically when the windstrength goes well above 12-15 kts. A woven dacron sail, without a boltrope will have the point of maximum draft constantly change its position, either fore or aft, with differing windstrengths; in light winds the draft will ‘go forward’ and in heavy winds the point of maximum draft will ‘go aft’. The boltrope is added to keep the point of maximum draft essentially in ‘one place’ under different windstrengths and to help keep the sail shape from stretching ‘all over the place’ under varying wind-loading.
When making such a sail, the sailmaker will purposely cut the boltrope a wee bit shorter than the ‘designed’ luff length, usually (for a sail typically designed for sailing in approx.15 kts.) will cut the boltrope shorter by approximately 1” for every 10-11 feet. of luff length. – this is called ‘boltrope preload’. So, to get to the ‘as designed’ luff length when raising such a sail, that boltrope has to be additionally stretched-out (by additional halyard tension, etc.) or the sail will not be ‘stretched’ to its intended ‘as designed’ SHAPE.

Boltropes – practicality.
For the sailor, this means that if you ‘just raise’ such a sail and want to sail in 12-15kts., the luff will be physically shorter than the ‘design’ by approximately 1” for every 10-11ft. of luff length; ..... therefore, you need to additionally ‘stretch out’ that boltrope so that the sail takes on its as DESIGNED shape!!!!!!!!!!
Without stretching out this ‘pre-load’ after ‘raising’ the sail, the sail will be draft-aft, ‘baggy’, too much draft, and the aft sections of the sail (leech) will be somewhat ‘hooked up to weather’ – all shapes that promote aggressive heeling, ‘powered-up but exceptionally slow’, poor ‘pointing’ ability, increased “weather helm”, etc. ..... very ‘cranky’ boat!!!

Remedy (Rx):
Raise the sail to just ‘up’, then apply an approximate additional 1” inch of HALYARD (and ‘cunningham’ if you have one) strain for every 10 ft. of luff length. Then go sailing on a hard BEAT to WINDWARD and notice the helm pressure (so-called ‘weather helm’). Crank on more (or less) HALYARD tension until you can take your hands OFF the wheel/tiller ... and have the boat go in a straight line (no heading up or down), all by itself — called a ‘dead fish neutral helm’. Then, slightly RELEASE some halyard tension until the boat ‘s-l-o-w-l-y’ heads up when you release the wheel/tiller ... the boat will now be FAST, wont heel as much as before, and will ‘point like banshee’. The sail will now have its point of maximum draft positioned correctly for the current wind and wave conditions ..... and you will better enjoy yourself.

Shrinking Boltropes .... a 'problem' with aged sails.
Dacron boltropes change shape over time and depending on HOW MANY TIMES they get ‘stretched-out’ ... and they progressively and additively get shorter and fatter. So, if it takes an immense amount of halyard tension to get to the ‘neutral helm’, etc., consider to take your mainsail to a sailmaker to get the boltrope adjusted or ‘eased’. Easing the boltrope will quickly and cost effectively bring an old ‘baggy’, powered-up, draft-aft sail ‘back to life and proper SHAPE’ ... and usually at minimal cost.
Another way to check for a shrunken boltrope: on a windless day, raise the sail to ‘just up’, add the additional 1” / 10-11 ft. of luff length by added halyard tension, then check the angle that the top of the boom makes with the mast at the gooseneck. If that angle is much greater than 90 degrees ... say 95 to 100 degrees, it means that the boltrope has shrunken and should to be readjusted or ‘eased’.

Most boats with ‘shrunken boltropes, or improperly raised boltroped mainsails, will visually have the aft end of the boom LOWER than the gooseneck!!!! .... probably 95% of all cruisers & ‘non-racing’ sailors will have a ‘droopy’ aft section of their boom.

Once you have the proper basic ‘as designed’ SHAPE in your mainsail by properly RAISING it, etc. (by stretching out that boltrope!!!!) which brings the point of maximum draft to the ‘correct’ fore/aft position, all the ‘other trim and shaping’ efforts will be ‘much’ easier and more ‘effortless’.
Rich,

If I can't raise the main all the way to the top (the main halyard won't even raise with a winch), there is about 2-3" of luff still out of the track at the bottom and the boom is at about 6" below 90°, would this be a shrunken bolt rope as well?

I was on a Shark today that had this problem. We were dead into the wind with no pressure on the main but the main was a bear to get up. We had to feed, back off, re-feed, back off again several times before we got the main to about 8" from the top. There was about 2" of bolt rope still out of the channel. The instructor said "That's just the way it is." The Shark I was on yesterday didn't have this problem.

Sorry to hijack the thread.

Frank
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Rich,

If I can't raise the main all the way to the top (the main halyard won't even raise with a winch), there is about 2-3" of luff still out of the track at the bottom and the boom is at about 6" below 90°, would this be a shrunken bolt rope as well?

I was on a Shark today that had this problem. We were dead into the wind with no pressure on the main but the main was a bear to get up. We had to feed, back off, re-feed, back off again several times before we got the main to about 8" from the top. There was about 2" of bolt rope still out of the channel. The instructor said "That's just the way it is." The Shark I was on yesterday didn't have this problem.

Sorry to hijack the thread.

Frank
This is a PERTINENT question that applies to getting proper tension in the boltrope .... so no thread highjacking !!!!!

A mast track needs to be CLEAN and 'slippery' for the slugs not to bind; binding when being raised/lowered AND binding when the windloading also stretches the sail's luff. The slugs HAVE to be free to move in reaction to windloaded induced 'stretch' or you can easily get 'localized' shape problems.
Suggest that you CLEAN/SCRUB the track, lightly sanding it if necessary, then rub on simple paraffin wax (on both the inside of the track AND the slugs). For 'cylindrical' shaped slugs you can 'carve' several ~1" long segments and place them in the track BETWEEN a few of the topmost slugs - will help to 'lubricate' the track everytime you raise or lower the sail. Once the track is CLEAN and waxed, you can additionally use one of the 'sail track lubes' for even 'slippier' slug action.

IF the sail doesnt use slugs but rather the boltrope/sleeve is inserted into the track .... rub the paraffin on the boltrope sleeve. On such a sail WITHOUT slugs and the boltrope is inserted into the track .... a shrunken boltrope (getting fatter and fatter all the time) may bind in the track .... and sorry, in that case the entire boltrope and sleeve will usually need to be replaced.

So, if the slugs (or boltrope + sleeve) are BINDING either when raising/lowering, the track has 'friction issues' and that will cause 'shape' problems because the slugs, etc. cant move freely and properly .... not only during the raise/lower, but also when the sail gets windloaded.


:)
:)
 
Apr 29, 2010
209
MacGregor m25 Erieau, Ontario, Canada
Thanks Rich. I'll give that a try on their boat as well as my own.
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
I was unaware of the preload. this explains a few things about my main sail, I have been having most of the issues described as symptoms. I was thinking it was blown and in need of replacment, instead I may just need to put an extra turn or two on the winch when raising it...
 

Bob S

.
Sep 27, 2007
1,771
Beneteau 393 New Bedford, MA
Rich, thanks for the post. I printed it out and have reread it a few times. I'm beginning to understand it. Your replies to the post on twist have been very helpful too, as is Don's book. Although this is my third season it is the first season I've focused on sail trim. Here goes another dumb question. I have used your method for cleaning sails, a reply to a post I made a few years ago. At the beginning of this season I sent my jib to SailCare to be cleaned. They called me and told me that it was a laminate and couldn't clean it.:redface: My sails came with the boat (my first). Is there an easy way to distinguish what material your sails are made from?

My main does have bolt ropes and I think it's Dacron.:confused: If I remember correctly there are 2 bolt ropes on the bottom half of the luff, nothing above the midpoint. Does that sound right? As I understand your post, I should raise the sail until the luff is taught then add an additional 1" for every 10' of luff.
 

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RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Rich, thanks for the post. I printed it out and have reread it a few times. I'm beginning to understand it. Your replies to the post on twist have been very helpful too, as is Don's book. Although this is my third season it is the first season I've focused on sail trim. Here goes another dumb question. I have used your method for cleaning sails, a reply to a post I made a few years ago. At the beginning of this season I sent my jib to SailCare to be cleaned. They called me and told me that it was a laminate and couldn't clean it.:redface: My sails came with the boat (my first). Is there an easy way to distinguish what material your sails are made from?

My main does have bolt ropes and I think it's Dacron.:confused: If I remember correctly there are 2 bolt ropes on the bottom half of the luff, nothing above the midpoint. Does that sound right? As I understand your post, I should raise the sail until the luff is taught then add an additional 1" for every 10' of luff.
Cruising laminates can be hard to identify 'just by looking'. Cruising laminates are usually made of 5 or more layers, and the outer part of the 'sandwich' is a thin woven dacron polyester 'tafeta' that can fool one into thinking the sail is made entirely out of WOVEN material. Usually, and when in doubt, if you hold the fabric in front of VERY strong light, the WOVEN will be seem to be made of uniform threads ... and the cruising laminate will 'show' with teenly little 'squares' deep inside the sandwich or there will be teeny squares woven into the outer taffeta. Many times in cruising laminates also you can see the 'squares' (~3/8" X 3/8") of the center 'strength' portion.

For a pic of what Im saying about cruising laminates go to: http://www.dimension-polyant.com/en/Laminate_Cruising_2_3_1.php and hold your curser over the "+" in the 'circle' on the left side of the page.
You can easily DIY clean a sail made entirely of WOVEN dacron fabric; but, not a laminated (cruising laminate - which can 'look like' woven). Most of the recent cruising laminates have these 'little' visual squares so you can tell the difference.


Boltropes are usually 'hidden' inside of the 'sleeve' which is stitched along the luff or foot of a sail. They are usually 3 strand dacron rope and run the entire length of the luff (and/or foot), so pinch/slide that sleeve and rub along what looks like a sleeve made from 4" wide 'tape' ... and whats inside is the 3 strand boltrope.

If the 3 strand rope is of short length (a few feet) AND there are TWO restraints/fastenings with a sail SLUG between the TWO restraints, then what you see is probably a slug 'jackline'. Jacklines are used so that when reefing the slugs essentially 'come loose' from the sail (but still attached) by the now 'loose' jackline - this allows the slugs (below the reef position) to 'stack up' tightly against one another when the halyard is 'released' and you can now put a LOT of pressure on the tack portion of the reef and without breaking any slugs.
If this isnt clear let me know and I'll reply with a pic/sketch.

;-)
 

Bob S

.
Sep 27, 2007
1,771
Beneteau 393 New Bedford, MA
Thanks again.
What I see is definitely slug jacklines and they are below the 2 reefing points. Thanks for the education! I'll check out the website and see if I can identify my sail material. Should cruising laminated be cleaned professionally?
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Laminate sails generally cant be cleaned.
 
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