Hey all. I have a awesome oday 23-2 1978 sailboat. Heavy keel and a bit of oil canning on the rear rollers as you can see. FYI I did raise the Keel support about a full inch and all that did was raise the front of the boat so it's almost off of the rollers. The back of the boat looks about the same or maybe even a tiny bit worse. The pictures are what it looks like after I raised the Keel support up a bit.
How do i fix this oil canning on trailer (pics)
- Thread starter Peter Sai-Ngarm
- Start date
Way, way too much of the boat's weight on the rollers. They should be not much more than stopping the boat from falling over. Let the keel take the weight, use the rollers to keep it upright.
I agree with Meriachee -we can clearly see that the boat is riding on the rollers. There is dimple depression on the hull from roller pressure. Great way to make friends with the repair shop. Boat is not properly weighted over the trailer.
I am looking at getting smaller rollers. There is no way to adjust them that I can see, other than drilling holes in the brackets which I may try.
Any comments on the difference between raising the keel support vs lowering the rollers?
Although the weight of the boat should rest on the keel with the rollers to hold it upright, that is true but there are a couple of issues. Most trailerable sailboat hulls are not that thick for support on the underside of the hull. Secondly as previous mentioned, not enough contact points except for a few with the rollers. If using a roller style trailer, multiple rollers are highly suggested and not a few as seen on this trailer posted. Trying to lower or raise the rollers might help but not really. As a dealer when requested for a roller style trailer, I insisted on multiple and I mean a lot of rollers to distribute the weight to avoid what is seen here. In addition, I was involved in designing trailers. No I am not an archetict but I know my trailers. My recommendation is to add many rollers or simply go to a bunk style trailer that generally will allow distribution of weight plus generally they are holding the boat upright where the hull is generally the thickest.
I own a similar sized/aged boat with identical trailer.
I agree with a lot of the above suggestions.
For the short-term before you re-equip your trailer:
Each set of two rollers is attached to a bar that is connected, with another similar bar and two rollers, via two u-bolts to supporting brackets. If you loosen the nuts on the u-bolts (use rust breaking treatment first), you can slide the two support bars starboard and port directions. Due to the curvature of the hull, when you slide the outside set of two rollers away from the keel you will increase the distance between the rollers and the hull on both the outside and inside rollers. Work with just one set of four rollers at a time. Will take some trial and error to get all roller sets repositioned in sink with each other to balance the boat but not carry the weight of the boat. (really makes the job easier if you have an air impact wrench)
This does two things. First it releases the pressure on the hull, and, repositions the rollers a little bit.
I agree with a lot of the above suggestions.
For the short-term before you re-equip your trailer:
Each set of two rollers is attached to a bar that is connected, with another similar bar and two rollers, via two u-bolts to supporting brackets. If you loosen the nuts on the u-bolts (use rust breaking treatment first), you can slide the two support bars starboard and port directions. Due to the curvature of the hull, when you slide the outside set of two rollers away from the keel you will increase the distance between the rollers and the hull on both the outside and inside rollers. Work with just one set of four rollers at a time. Will take some trial and error to get all roller sets repositioned in sink with each other to balance the boat but not carry the weight of the boat. (really makes the job easier if you have an air impact wrench)
This does two things. First it releases the pressure on the hull, and, repositions the rollers a little bit.
Raising the keel support will help but the drawback of that approach is that it will make it slightly harder to launch ... especially on a shallow ramp.
My experience is that a small amount of oil canning will correct itself over time after roller pressure is released.
I don’t know if this is a factor: do the keel support rubber rollers shrink significantly with 40 years of life?
I don’t know if this is a factor: do the keel support rubber rollers shrink significantly with 40 years of life?
Terminology police: this is not oilcanning. Oilcanning is the defection of a large area of the hull between bulkheads while sailing. It’s caused by a combination of thin hull layup and wide distance between bulkheads. It often creates a distinctive noise when it snaps back. That’s what gives it its name.
This localized defection is caused a hotspot loading and aggravated by the same construction issues.
This localized defection is caused a hotspot loading and aggravated by the same construction issues.
not sure which trailer you have, my load rite has a handle that allows me to take the weight for driving and then release the keel for launching.
Folks, again we are dealing with a roller style trailer and without multiple contact points which this trailer has very few and on a trailer sailboat hull, you see what will occur.
Yes keep in mind this boat weighs 3600lb dry at 23 feet, probably 3800lb as is.
I'd like to install bunks on just the back. Not sure how I'll attach them yet
I'd like to install bunks on just the back. Not sure how I'll attach them yet
If you are going to install bunk boards, then do it the length of the hull, not in the back only. I have along with others tried with rollers on the front and bunk boards in the rear and did not work. The choice is yours sir.
That Oday 27 has a thicker hull than true trailerable sailboats in a sense.
Pads are great but only placed in the right areas but again prefer bunk boards on those truly trailable.
Pads are great but only placed in the right areas but again prefer bunk boards on those truly trailable.
I don't disagree, and it's all subjective, but limited by capabilities. I was considering that a pad spreads the pressure over a much larger area than a roller, and none of that matters to the thickness of the glass. The solution should be based on ease of launch or retrieval.
You would think that a pad has more contact if on a flat surface on the side where they generally are but actually on one contact point sometimes elongated due to the curvature of the hull so in that case you are right vs. a roller but the thickness of the hull is also a very important factor as well as often I had to move the pads for the thicker part of the hull to avoid the glass from compressing inward. Experience of owning a yard