There have been several posts here on SBO on a boat's tendency to "sail" or "yaw" at anchor when anchored on a single hook. The solutions offered that I've noticed include putting up a riding sail, rigging a variation of the Pardey Bridle as it is sometimes called, or, in the extreme, putting down a second anchor. The second anchor is either a stern anchor or a second bow anchor where the rodes form a 45-deg angle at the bow, etc. The two bow anchors are usually depicted as having similar scopes.
There is something called the Hammerlock Moor reported to ease especially violent "horsing" at anchor as it is also called. Apparently the H-moor is well known generally; but, of course, not to everybody. With the H-moor one can drop a second bow anchor "underfoot" with minimum scope to act as a snubber, OR--drop at the extreme point of the sheer to one side, and then secure the rode to ride a minor bridle that is formed as the bow aligns head-to-wind while sheering back on the opposite tack. The second anchor is also allowed only short scope. This modified version of the H-moor is reportedly more effective than dropping underfoot. It also works with the rodes crossed at the bow. If the wind is strong and then veers or backs, the anchor on the shorter scope may be "permitted" to drag along as the boat lies to the new wind. Thus, it continues to dampen the horsing.
There is something called the Hammerlock Moor reported to ease especially violent "horsing" at anchor as it is also called. Apparently the H-moor is well known generally; but, of course, not to everybody. With the H-moor one can drop a second bow anchor "underfoot" with minimum scope to act as a snubber, OR--drop at the extreme point of the sheer to one side, and then secure the rode to ride a minor bridle that is formed as the bow aligns head-to-wind while sheering back on the opposite tack. The second anchor is also allowed only short scope. This modified version of the H-moor is reportedly more effective than dropping underfoot. It also works with the rodes crossed at the bow. If the wind is strong and then veers or backs, the anchor on the shorter scope may be "permitted" to drag along as the boat lies to the new wind. Thus, it continues to dampen the horsing.
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