Hole in mast base doesn't align with deck plate?

Sep 20, 2016
26
Hunter 240 Holland, MI
We will have to check in with Dave, but I am pretty sure the screws that hold the mast plate to the deck are threaded into an embedded aluminum plate. I'm pretty sure I can see metal in the holes when I look into them with a flashlight.
I think you are right caverun, I could only move the mast deck plate an 1/8" or so before it would run into the pocket for the keel lift line. Moving the deck plate is probably not an option.
 
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Doug J

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May 2, 2005
1,192
Hunter 26 Oceanside, CA
I would worry that moving the mast plate will mess up all of your standing rigging... then you would need to lengthen and/or shorten stays and shrouds etc. And how would that effect where your jib blocks are relative to the angle of your head sail etc. I would fear that moving the mast will cause enough other problems that you won't see water this summer.
+1
Seems like moving the mast plate (Tabernacle) is the wrong thing to do.
On my 94" H26, it uses bridles. There is some play, in other words they are not tight. The only thing they do is keep the mast from falling to the side when stepping the mast. How about this idea. Elongate the holes at the top of the struts by a half inch, just enough to allow you to make the connection at the tabernacle. The small amount of movement as you step the mast should not cause any problem at all.
 
Feb 18, 2011
315
Hunter 260 Cave Run Lake, KY
Just in case it helps, I took photos of the strut attachment plates on my H240. There is no room to move them aft unless you also move the halyard cheek blocks.
 

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Sep 20, 2016
26
Hunter 240 Holland, MI
The thing that baffles me is that comparing the images you guys have posted and the parts on my boat, as well as all the dig marks in the tabernacle (thanks Doug J) I have to conclude my boat is factory stock and it must have come this way originally. Hmmmmm.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,362
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
Maybe an alternate way to fix this is to lengthen the struts. It is possible that the struts are just a hair too short and by the time that error is compounded by the angles in the triangle they make with the mast position, you are off by 1/2" at the mast base. Can you disconnect the struts at the mast.... then put the mast in its base and see how far off your struts are from fitting? Then maybe get some aluminum tubing and cut new struts.

Here is a link to a supplier of tubing

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-aluminum-hollow-tubing/=17o0m9h
 

Doug J

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May 2, 2005
1,192
Hunter 26 Oceanside, CA
HC, can you provide a picture of the top connection point of the struts? I'm not clear why elongating the top holes is not being considered. Perhaps a spacer could be used to allow the struts to move in the elongated hole. Unless I'm way off here, it seems like it would be the easiest solution.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
The later struts on the 240 were adjustable. They can be made. Not sure of price but contact Al at forum store for price.

The only other thing to do is get stock stainless steel tubing and weld nuts in the end. Cut off the ends of the fixed struts and weld them to either 3/8 or 1/2 inch threaded stainless steel rod for adjustable struts. Remember welding stainless is different somewhat to regular steel
 
Sep 20, 2016
26
Hunter 240 Holland, MI
Thanks for the help Dave! For those of you who haven't gotten a chance to chat with Dave; he is a hoot! I need to find his house, roll up with a few cold ones and just listen for a couple of hours! He is more connected than we will ever know.

As far as a fix goes, I am not sure quite what to do yet. Doug J mentioned elongating a couple of the holes in the system to accommodate the mis-alignment. Based on a couple of ball park calcs, if I elongate the holes the 1/2" needed to get the base to line up, the side to side sway (slop) at the top of the mast will be a bit over 12"! Not catastrophic, but not desirable either.

The problem seems to be that the mis-alignment is only in the fore and aft direction, not in the vertical direction, if I change the length of the struts, I think I will be inducing stresses on the raised side of the triangle. If the struts are currently the correct length when the mast is up and I change their length, all those forces will be imparted to the deck hardware.

Woooof! The only "real" way to fix this issue without compromise is to remake the port and starboard mounting brackets with correctly aligned holes.

Before I do that though, I think I am going to try elongating the holes in the brackets about 1/4". I can quite easily "scooch" the mast 1/4"; the full 1/2" was quite difficult.
This way the mast can only "wag" about 6" when it's horizontal and will be able to sway less at it approaches vertical.
If that feels too lose, I think I will just re-make the brackets.
If it's too floppy, I guess I am off to the stainless steel store!
What do you think?
2017.05.18_ScreenHunter_269.jpg
 
Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
If the wag it too much the mast could miss the mast crutch when being lowered. I think mine does this, but I'm careful to guide it into the slot at the right time.
 
Sep 20, 2016
26
Hunter 240 Holland, MI
A good thing to be mindful of when lowering I'm sure.
My previous boat would miss the crutch by as much as a foot on either side. I had to guide that one in every time.
If that gets to be too big of a "pain in the neck", I can re-make the brackets I guess.
 
Jun 2, 2004
649
Hunter 23.5 Calgary, Canada
If you elongate the strut support holes horizontally and decide you don't like it, instead of re-making the brackets maybe you could "plug" the wider hole with a nut and bolt?
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Guys. Do not touch that chain plate the poles are attached to. Forum store can get hunter to build adjustable brackets. It is the same pole but the upper end has a threaded rod which to adjust to. Call and speak to Al at forum store
 
Sep 20, 2016
26
Hunter 240 Holland, MI
Alright folks, I have found a solution:
For clarification: when I ran the string through the holes in the chain-plates and the tabernacle I discovered the alignment problem was off in the fore/aft direction. The alignment in the up/down direction was actually quite good.

I discovered that if I remove the chain-plates and swap them "side to side" the mounting holes that attach the chain-plates to the hull are on diagonal corners and do not line up. The good thing about this is that I can re-position the chain-plates so they line up just right with the mast base and then drill new mounting holes in the chain-plates that align with the existing holes drilled in the hull. This will leave two empty holes in the stainless steel chain-plates, but that shouldn't cause a problem.
This should position the chain-plate pivots and the tabernacle pivots all on the same axis!
Problem solved.
Since the mast is already up for the summer, I will make this fix this fall when I bring the boat home for the winter.
Thanks for all the help thinking this thing through.
Much appreciated.
Camper is Happy!