High thrust props and sailboats

walt

.
Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
There is a discussion about outboards for the 26S with some reference to high thrust props which is why this post but I think its interesting enough to have a separate thread. I could be wrong on the stuff below... but am sure of it enough to post.. Caution.. somewhat technical so dont bother to read unless you have some time.

Generally high thrust props for these small outboards have a much better reverse than a conventional prop. I personally find the rest of the "story" about these much easier to understand if you look at the equations of power keeping in mind that if you have an outboard rated at 10 hp, you are not going to get any more power out of it than 10 hp but you might get less with the wrong prop.

The straight line equation for power is
Power = force * velocity = thrust * velocity

The rotational equivalent equation for power is
Power = Torque * revolution per second

So the idea for needing the high thrust prop is easy to see from the first equation Power = thrust * velocity. If you are trying to get the maximum power from an outboard and your velocity (speed) is higher, you need less thrust. But to get the same power output at a lower speed, you need to increase the thrust.. So you need a "high thrust" prop on a vessel that only goes slow for that amount of power generated.

Ive used both high thrust and conventional props on my 26S and could not see the benefit of the high thrust. But at some low enough speed, you would according to the simple physics or the equation for power. So where do you draw the line?

Last winter I took some data with a 26S and conventional 3 blade Diameter (D) = 8.5 and Pitch (P) = 8 (on the left in the picture below) and a high thrust 4 blade prop D= 8.7 P=5 shown on the right that actually came with the outboard (9.8 Nissan X long shaft).


The plot below shows the speeds I achieved with my Mac 26S for the two different props vs the RPM the outboard operated at.


In the real world test I did, I actually had higher boat speed for the conventional prop and both props pushed the boat well up into the theoretical hull speed limit. So for this hull shape and a 10 hp outboard, you are really not yet into the lower speeds where you would get a benefit from a high thrust prop.. Except in reverse where you speeds are generally much slower.

But, the hull speed for the 26S is also not much over the limit of where the high thrust prop would have a benefit. You can see this by the RPM where the conventional prop achieved its highest speed. That is about 5000 RPM. Go back to the second equation for rotational power which is Torque * RPM. Almost all of these small outboards get their rated HP at the max specified RPM of 6000 (as many explosions per second as possible at the highest torque the outboard can achieve that rpm). So in this case where the outboard at the torque the prop presented could only get up to 5000 and not 6000 left some hp on the table. Of course since the speed was already way into the theoretical hull speed limit, there would have been almost no speed increase by getting to the slightly higher rpm.

Also interesting is the high thrust prop does get to 6000 but still achieved a lower speed. For these experiments, I had also looked at the electronic ignition timing and the outboard has a rev limiter that starts to really screw up the timing over 6000 RPM. So Im fairly sure the high thrust prop had lower peak speed because the outboard was rev limiting.

So.. high thrust props certainly have a use but for a 9.8 hp outboard on the 26S, the boat speed is still a little too high to need the high thrust prop. As you either drop in hp for this hull or go to a heavier hull, the high thrust prop then may start to have the edge. I personally like the conventional prop better on this boat as it still get to the rated RPM range of 5000 to 6000 rpm but normal operation is at a lower and less noisy RPM than a "higher thrust" prop.

However, considering reverse where speeds are low, the high thrust prop just kicks axx.. plus in reverse they generally allow the exhaust to exit out the back rather than going over the blades like the conventional prop.

But regarding that really great reverse.. be careful. My old Honda had the reverse lock down damaged as the outboards mechanically are much better for handling forward thrust.
 
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Nov 6, 2006
9,893
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Do the test going into a 20 kt wind and waves..
From the chart, it looks like less than 8" pitch but more than 5" for your boat ya might want to play with a 6" or 7" just for grins..
Good note, Walt.
 

walt

.
Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
Yep.. some sort of prop between the two I tested might be slightly better. I just keep that 5 pitch on the boat as a spare and of course trying to do a controlled experiment with wind and waves where the only thing you changed was the prop would be nearly impossible. But I have had that boat out in those conditions and worse with the conventional prop and really cant say I have any problem that I need to solve.
 

AndyVS

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Sep 4, 2015
56
Corsair 31 UC 179 Port Sanilac
I have a Mercury 9.9 with the command thrust option and a 10" x 7 pitch prop. It does not go any faster than the old 7.5 HP it replaced and it may be a bit slower. The new motor shines at slow & medium speeds when you need maximum power & control (I suspect the correct term is torque). With the old motor, docking was an adventure & more than my share of slow speed crashes. With the new motor & if there is a strong crosswind, I can come in quick, hit reverse and stop the boat easily. Earlier this year I did a a tow on Lake Huron with a stiff headwind and good sized swells. I had more than enough power to handle it easily. My boat thanks me for the new motor every time I dock.
 

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
....So.. high thrust props certainly have a use but for a 9.8 hp outboard on the 26S, the boat speed is still a little too high to need the high thrust prop................................ or go to a heavier hull, the high thrust prop then may start to have the edge.......
I think the reason the 9.8 exta-long shaft comes with the 5 pitch prop is because some boats that are 2-3 times the weight of the Mac use an outboard. I could see the need for it on boats weighing 6,000 to 9,000 lbs.. I took our 5 pitch off and keep it on the boat 'just in case' I have a prop problem. We run a 4 blade 7 pitch prop. I'm happy with it and will keep it on. I usually motor at about 4 1/2 to 5 knots at part throttle. What are you using for a tach? I'd like to have one at times.

Our boats, unless weighed down for a long trip, are so light I think about any prop will work. Walt did you ever do your test up in the river current at the head of the lake? I'll be interested in your thoughts if you guys get in a situation in Florida or the Northwest where you get into a high tidal current.

I can only think of 3-4 times I've used full throttle for a minute or less and those times was happy with the prop I've got on, but I have no comparison to anything else :(,

Sumner
=========================================================================
1300 miles to The Bahamas and Back in the Mac...
Endeavour 37 Mods...
MacGregor 26-S Mods...
Mac Trips to Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Canada, Florida, Bahamas
 

walt

.
Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
What are you using for a tach? I'd like to have one at times.
I bought some little tach with an internal battery where you wrapped a wire around the spark plug wire a few times. You had to pick the correct setting depending on the number or sparks per cycle. I also had an oscilliscope on the boat at the time powered from an inverter so I could see the spark pulses and this is also how I knew that the rpm limiting was due to the electronic ignition. I still have that tach... but ended up thinking it was somewhat of a POS.. It barely worked on the 9.8 hp (part of the reason why I ended up with the O scope on the boat) and didnt work at all when I tried it on my Suzuki 2.5. I dont really need to know RPM now since Im not trying anything new and I think that meter I bought even had a battery that you could not replace.. junk now.
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
Walt did you ever do your test up in the river current at the head of the lake?
I did not get a chance to take the measurment I wanted.. but think current is fairly straight forward and since you will hear on the internet that you might need a high thrust prop for current, worth discussing.

This history paper someone posted a link to earlier on SBO http://physicstoday.scitation.org/doi/10.1063/PT.3.3627 is mostly about history but also discusses a little about boat drag
Starting in 1857 he carried out a decade-long study of ship resistance and concluded that so-called frictional eddies, shed along the length of a ship—not just at the bow and stern—were the most important determinants of ship resistance. But Rankine’s theory for computing resistance, later shown to be largely accurate, was too complex to be used in the day-to-day practice of shipbuilding.14
Current is simply just a body of water that is moving. If you just consider that body of water and your speed in that body of water, it seems to me (from reading things like the above quote from that paper) that your hull speed in that body of the water has the same exact limitations regardless if that body of water is moving or not. Theoretical hull speed still applies even if the body of water is moving. So.. it becomes simple. If your peak speed is 6 knots with no current, add in 3 knots of current and your peak speed would be 3 knots going against the current and 9 knots with the current.

All my data shows very little difference in peak speed between a conventional prop and a high thrust prop for my boat case (26S with 9.8hp) because both props get the boat speed way up in to the theoretical hull speed limit. So in current, you still have the same exact speed differences. A high thrust prop really makes no difference in current since if the tiny bit of speed difference is actually important, you are taking some really bad risks with no margin for error. A high thrust prop can give better acceleration when boat speed is slow but Ive been in current many times and that would have never mattered.

I used to have to fly to China from LA and a similar situation to current would often exist because of the jet stream. The plane would always fly at about the same air speed but the ground speed would predictably vary a huge amount depending on the jet stream flow speed and if you were going with it or against it.
 
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walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
We run a 4 blade 7 pitch prop. I'm happy with it and will keep it on.
That probably is a great prop for the 26S and 9.8 outboard.. Somewhat between the two props I tested where one of the props I tested could only get to about 5000 rpm and the other would rev limit at 6000 rpm.
 
Apr 19, 2012
1,043
O'Day Daysailor 17 Nevis MN
Thank you for the info Walt. Your data matches fairly closely to what I expected. I did a lot of research before I purchased my 9.9 XLS with high thrust prop. I agree that a 6.5" or 7" thrust would be optimum and considered purchasing a different pitch prop but, since the 5" pitch would already exceed theoretical hull speed, I didn't see that it was enough of an advantage to be worth while.
 
May 16, 2011
555
Macgregor V-25 Charlton, MA- Trailer
I have a 9.9 Johnson 2 stroke long shaft with a high thrust three blade prop. Even wide open I barely get hull speed. In many posts I see that guys are getting hull speed at half throttle or so they say. I often wonder about going with the standard prop to see what the difference would be. The motor is loud and I often have to motor for 10 miles or more. New England either has 25 knots of wind or nothing so it seems and it usually dies when I am out at the islands. The fuel economy is not that bad but I like Sumner I tend to run at 4.5 knots to keep the engine at a fuel efficient and quieter rpm. I like to run in that range and we tend to stay drier depending on the sea conditions. Wind dead on the nose wind usually requites firing up the motor depending on destination and schedules. Hull speed at lower and more fuel efficient rpms if the conditions allow would be great.

I would imagine my V25 weighs less than the 26S. especially with a full ballast. I never really had any issues with docking but do love the thrust in reverse. I am more concerned with getting to speed with less rpm and noise. Especially on one of the long motoring passages. I will post my comments if I get the standard prop. If any one has some insight on the 25 and motors I am all ears.

I love this site!
Ken B.
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
I have a 9.9 Johnson 2 stroke long shaft with a high thrust three blade prop. Even wide open I barely get hull speed. In many posts I see that guys are getting hull speed at half throttle or so they say.
You might need to get a tach to really find out what is going on.. FYI, one time I put tape around the throttle handle and marked it evenly between 0 and 5. 0 was idle and 5 was full throttle. This is the Nissan 9.8 four stroke with the three blade D= 8.5 P=8 "conventional" prop and at 450 ft elevation

Setting / speed in mph (to convert to knots, divide the speed numbers by 1.15)
----------------------------
0 / idle.. for some reason I didnt write down a number here
1 / 4.1
2 / 6.9
3 / 7.25
4 / 7.45
5 / 7.6

I had marked 3 as 1/2 throttle. When I look at these numbers now they seem high but I think they are accurate..
 
Sep 20, 2014
1,320
Rob Legg RL24 Chain O'Lakes
There are so many factors, it becomes difficult to quantify all of them in a formula. Not mentioned is prop diameter, as well as number of blades. More blades = more drag, so some HP is wasted on just turning the prop in the water. Larger diameter also consumes power. However both of these factors reduce prop slip, where the volume of water pushed through the prop may not be enough to move the boat. I have a 3 blade on a 4HP motor. Low speed boat control is not precise. The prop slips a lot. It will move the boat at hull speed at half throttle, but into a strong head wind, the boat will only be moving about 2 knots, WOT and engine spinning about half speed.
It seems like the higher thrust prop you get, the less slip you want, which means more blades or larger diameter. How ever those mean more drag, so you are trading power transfer for drag. That being the case, then your engine should be tuned for higher torque at lower RPMs.
I think the most practical direction is to just use a small diameter prop, setup for higher speed with less thrust. So under light load, you get speed at low RPMs making it use less fuel. Under high load, you have a lot of slip, so the engine can run at near max RPM, which is still going to give the best power transfer. Where you get into trouble is when you have a high speed prop that does not have enough slip. That prevents the engine from reaching max RPM under high load, which reduces the engine HP. It may be harder to control at the dock, because you have to use higher RPM to make the boat do anything, but out on the lake, it is probably more practical.
 
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Sumner

.
Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
....Current is simply just a body of water that is moving. If you just consider that body of water and your speed in that body of water, it seems to me (from reading things like the above quote from that paper) that your hull speed in that body of the water has the same exact limitations regardless if that body of water is moving or not. Theoretical hull speed still applies even if the body of water is moving. So.. it becomes simple. If your peak speed is 6 knots with no current, add in 3 knots of current and your peak speed would be 3 knots going against the current and 9 knots with the current.....
I agree with all of the above, yet there are some other things to consider when dealing with current.

At times you enter the current from an angle and you are not gradually going into it where you can add throttle. Cuts between the ocean and inland waters in Florida can be very twisty and you can go from one to another following dredged channels where you aren't always running directly with or against the current. In those cases you enter the current and have to say change direction into it. At that moment it is trying to sweep you in one direction and you are trying to accelerate the boat against it. The larger outboards have larger props and can handle the situation better/safer.

I'm not real sure if there would be a big difference in how a 5 pitch or 8 pitch on an 8 or 9.8 HP handles these situations with our lighter boats, but I do know that my 5/6 HP Tohatsu outboard with its much smaller prop wouldn't handle them as well. I can remember two distinct times we were withing just a couple feet of getting sweep into a channel marker and the engine saved us.

Not very far on either side of narrower cuts where the water widens out there can be practically no current. Then even though you are entering the cut parallel to water flow it can increase rapidly and the outboard has to respond quickly to maintain good steerage.

If one is going to sail/motor in conditions like above I'd recommend a larger outboard regardless of which prop you feel should be on it. I also pay a lot more attention to tide/current charts and try not to be in those bad cuts during high current if I can avoid it,

Sumner
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
Sumner, I have been in current on the Colorado river and in the San Juan Islands and really cant relate to much of that but its also because in all cases I have had more hp than I needed such as 9.8 hp on the 26S or 2.5 hp on my Hobie TI. If you really want to deal with current, go 5X to 10X the HP and get a M or X boat.. If you have a marginal hp engine for the boat, you definitely need to pay more attention to the prop type/ pitch / blade config.

I have a 3 blade on a 4HP motor. Low speed boat control is not precise. The prop slips a lot. It will move the boat at hull speed at half throttle, but into a strong head wind, the boat will only be moving about 2 knots, WOT and engine spinning about half speed.
This sounds like the perfect application for a high thrust prop (or just a prop with low pitch). 2 knots of boat speed requires higher thrust from the prop to achieve rated hp.. but the prop torque at that low of boat speed just wont allow the rpm to get high enough. I think if you had a 10 hp on the same boat.. no issues with that head wind regardless of the prop.

FYI, Davinet, you might find this interesting since you were discussing slip. The plot I showed earlier came from this thread last winter https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...p-measurement-on-a-1990-macgregor-26s.176479/ where the intention was to actually measure prop slip between a conventional prop and a high thrust prop..

Below is copied from that link..

The table below is the three blade 8 pitch prop (also posted above). All speeds are in MPH. Theoretical speed and slip were calculated in a spread sheet.

The table below is the four blade 5 pitch prop. All speeds are in MPH. Theoretical speed and slip were calculated in a spread sheet.

 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
A note on two stroke verses four stroke noise. I have not seen air filters on small outboard engines, as a mater of fact even engines to forty hp engines do not have them. The noise that comes from a two stroke is from the large amount of air being sucked in. A cure for this is foam air filter material added to the air box ( maybe called an air, water separator?). Most people think my 8.8 hp two stroke Yamaha is a four stroke.
 
Sep 20, 2014
1,320
Rob Legg RL24 Chain O'Lakes
Walt, thanks for the post, I'll have to do some reading when I have time to think through what I'm reading about. Been crazy busy trying to get a motorhome ready for sale.
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
A little more on prop slip.. (And Daveinet, after reading your post a few back more than once, think its all accurate)

I modified the slip comparison file a little (below). First change was for the four blade prop. I was using an O- scope to measure RPM and for the four blade prop where it was rev limiting, I changed the RPM in the spread sheet to show 6000. The rev limit on this outboard is done by the electronic ignition and it does this by screwing up the timing. In rev limit, the scope frequency reading showed higher than 6000 when it actually was not. I had observed this happening so am fairly confident about the 6000 for the last four blade measurement and the slip numbers actually look a little more consistent. Second, I added a % column as this is how prop slip is normally presented.

slip_comparison1.jpg


A couple quotes from this link http://www.go-fast.com/prop_slip.htm

Slip is never a negative number, and will range from 5% on a light cat to 25% on a heavy workboat. Most hi performance applications will be between 7 and 12 percent.
Now that you know the slip, what does it mean? Less is not necessarily better. Prop slip is not the same as efficiency
Interesting that the slip percent numbers for the Mac 26S and a 10 HP outboard for either prop are WAY higher than what the power boats are used to.. but the faster power boats also always have WAY higher ratio of HP to boat weight.

Also interesting is that I had taken the measurements for both props at 7.4 mph (I will stick with mph in this thread as that is the units used by all the prop slip on line calculators). Since the sailboat was doing the same speed in both prop cases, the actual thrust driving the boat would be identical. But the numbers for the two props are interesting for this actual boat speed.

Prop / theoretical prop screw speed to achieve an actual boat speed of 7.4 mph
---------------------------------------
3 blade 8.3 pitch / 18.27 mph
4 blade 5 pitch / 13.67 mph

A picture of those two props again below. The three blade prop has higher slip. I have not measured how much gas is used to travel some speed (actual efficiency) but its easier for me to believe the the 3 blade prop running at a lower RPM actually is the more efficient of the two even though it runs at higher slip percent. That also matches the quote from that referenced web site. I understand that a two blade prop may be even more efficient but also run at an even higher slip percent.


The equation for theoretical prop screw speed ONLY inputs RPM, gear ratio and prop pitch. There is no input for blade total area or shape. It is interesting that the three blade prop is screwing at a much higher speed than the four blade (18.27 mph vs 13.67 mph) for the same exact boat speed of 7.4 mph. I think this must imply that the higher area of the four blade accelerates out a larger mass of water. Thrust or force is mass * acceleration.. so for the same thrust or force you can either have higher A and less M or higher M and less A.

That higher blade area and likely higher mass of water being accelerated for a given thrust is maybe another aspect of what "high thrust" means. All interesting.. but I sure do like that conventional 3 blade prop better on this boat because of less noise but I can also rotate my outboard so dont need to come into a slip going fast.
 
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May 16, 2011
555
Macgregor V-25 Charlton, MA- Trailer
Wow!! Very scientific Walt. You have more time than I do!!
 
Jun 3, 2004
1,863
Macgregor 25 So. Cal.
Some other things to ponder -----
The Mac is different in the fact that the motor does not sit on the center line of the boat.
Is the motor vertical alignment proper for a heavy boat?