Is there a switch somewhere to manually activate the bilge pump or is it automatic? There is about an inch of water in the bilge. Also on the battery control panel is the red bilge button a light? If so when should it be on or off?
H35.5 Legend Bilge Pump Operation
- Thread starter Kgatesma
- Start date
The Sure Bail looks like a float switch, if that's as deep in the bilge that it can go, it won't detect that residual inch of water. The red light should go on when the bilge pump is running.
Try raising the arm on the float switch to see if the pump runs, and it should. If it doesn't, then I think some troubleshooting is in order.
The pump switch is typically held down with two screws (don't know about this particular model). One screw through a hole in the base of the switch and the other through a slot in the base. Remove the screw through the hole and just loosen the other screw and the switch can be removed.
Also, the pump will have a way to remove it from it's base which is screwed to the bottom of the bilge. Go on-line to find installation instructions for the pump about how to remove it, or maybe quicker, look around the sides of the pump for some "buttons" to press to remove it. Then one can check for any debris that could be blocking it's update.
Since the wires/conductors are laying in the bilge there could be some corrosion causing a problem. If water has got past the insulation, such as where the connectors are, the wires will typically show signs of stiffness where they were submerged. Above that point they should be flexible. FWIW: This is also a good way to detect if a boat may have been partially submerged, and by how much.
The pump switch is typically held down with two screws (don't know about this particular model). One screw through a hole in the base of the switch and the other through a slot in the base. Remove the screw through the hole and just loosen the other screw and the switch can be removed.
Also, the pump will have a way to remove it from it's base which is screwed to the bottom of the bilge. Go on-line to find installation instructions for the pump about how to remove it, or maybe quicker, look around the sides of the pump for some "buttons" to press to remove it. Then one can check for any debris that could be blocking it's update.
Since the wires/conductors are laying in the bilge there could be some corrosion causing a problem. If water has got past the insulation, such as where the connectors are, the wires will typically show signs of stiffness where they were submerged. Above that point they should be flexible. FWIW: This is also a good way to detect if a boat may have been partially submerged, and by how much.
Usually, the bilge pump is also wired to the D/C panel. Turn on the breaker for the bilge pump, and it will come on. The float switch is essentially a three way switch connected directly to a power source that activates the bilge pump when the float switch goes up. As someone else has said, the water may be too low to get sucked out by the bilge pump. I use a shop vac for that amount. I have a 1990 legend 37.5.
Ben
Ben
Cabinet catch for many Hunters
These catches were common on Hunters from the Legend-era through today's Marlow-Hunters. We keep a large stock on hand for emergency shipments or just getting spares.
See the product
My 356 had been badly neglected, and the batteries remained flat for a very long time before our purchase. The bilge was full of fresh water from window leaks, and the wiring for the bilge pump had corroded so needed re-wiring. However, I also found that the bilge pump over-ride switch on the DC panel was not wired correctly. The feed wire was terminated in the wrong loom, so could never have worked.
Neil
Neil