H34, it seems I have to remove 2 cars to reef, help

[CoastLife]

Hi guys.
We have our hunter 34 mostly setup, It's new to us and we're just figuring things out. My wife and I were looking at the sails, figuring out what it looks like to reef and such.

It appears that the cars sit so high in the slider that the reef points wont reach AND we even have floppy reef rings installed on the sail.
I tried moving the channel stop thing down(No idea what this is called) , but then the cars pop out.... So I let 2 pop out and placed the stopper back... then I could reach the reefing point. Here are some pictures of my situation... Are we setting this up wrong??

Seems pretty crazy to have to release cars off the main to reef. It also seems odd that they sit so high in the channel. that stopper is really high. but if I lower it the cars will release. So....I'm at a loss of what to do here. Is there a channel cover that stops them from releasing?

Any insight appreciated!

 

[justsomeguy]

Is there a channel cover that stops them from releasing?

Ayup, it's called a "mast gate".

 

[Tally Ho]

It would help to see a phot of the mast gate (that holds the sail slides in the track.

On my O'Day 322, the slot in the mast track is higher than the bottom of the mast track. It does not block the slides from going down, but it does prevent the slides from popping out of the track.

If you have a screw-in plug style stop, that could be your problem. But need a photo to know what you have.

Google "mast gate" and you will find a whole lot of options.

Good luck,

Greg

 

[Captmayhem]

coastlife, you get that bearing changed on the shaft yet?

 

[RoyS]

+1 on mast gate. The item photographed needs to be replaced with the proper mast gate so that the slides can pass down without exiting the feeder slot. Simple fix.

 

[Ilanortho]

Have the same problem; where can one obtain a mast gate?

 

[CoastLife]

OK.. Mast gate it is! Researched a little and probably going to make an aluminum screw on cover for it, which was my first thought. It blow my mind that this is how the masts were designed and that they don't come with mast gates pre installed.

Catpmayhem, We did some engine alignment work, but it seems like it may be a transmission cone glazing issue... :/

 

[kloudie1]

On my main, the bottom 3 or so (can't remember) sail slugs are attached with a line so that when the line is loose, the sail can move off to the side and even though the slugs are stacked, the sail can come down to the reef point. I don't have a good picture of that, but it is how the boat was rigged originally. Will try to get pictures and post in a week or so. It is a Cunningham of sorts, but also attaches those bottom slides to the sail.

 

[CoastLife]

On my main, the bottom 3 or so (can't remember) sail slugs are attached with a line so that when the line is loose, the sail can move off to the side and even though the slugs are stacked, the sail can come down to the reef point. I don't have a good picture of that, but it is how the boat was rigged originally. Will try to get pictures and post in a week or so. It is a Cunningham of sorts, but also attaches those bottom slides to the sail.
View attachment 138243 View attachment 138244

Interesting. I see the idea in the second picture... Love to see a more detailed version when you get a chance.

 

[Richard Bryer]

I made a mast gate out of ss. it is attached to one side of the groove so the mainsail slides can move down through the gap that is used to remove the slides when taking the sail off. Here is a picture

 

[justsomeguy]

Here is a picture

Wow. Just two inches for slug entry? Good thinking on the design, whoever did that.

 

[Tally Ho]

Hers is what my mast gate looks like....
Gate closed:


Gate open:



Greg

 

[Allan12210]

Along the line of what Kloudie is referring to is a mainsail jackline. I did it that way for 10 years before getting a new mainsail. Pretty simple solution that only requires a short piece of line.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/reefing-question.150211/&highlight=allan12210 sail jackline

 

[edguy3]

On the 40.5 the reefing is a bit different:

It introduces a block to the reefing points..
Would this approach be better for your situation?
/ed

 

[Capt Robbie]

Hi Chad and Katie ,
Glad to see you in the water

You are correct,
1st you have to lower the sail track stopper the keeps the sail slugs in the track below the entry point for the sail slugs.

2nd lower the main to the first or second reef tack ring.

3rd now remove any sail slugs below the tack ring point.

4th hook you reef tack ring to your reef hooks on the boom reef
point 1 or 2.

5th tighten you reef line stoppers on the forward sect of the boom.
I label mine reef # 1 and reef #2. To make it easier to remember.

6th raise the main. To snug up the slack on the forward section of the main sail. Note just tight enough to keep the rings on the reef hooks. My sail has reef ties that you can bunch up the reefed baggy sail and tie it to the boom.


Note it doesn't look pretty reefed and the sail is not as efficient as it would be when not reefed, but who cares. The whole point it to down power your main sail and get the boat back up on its feet and not be over powered.

Try reefing at the dock on a non windy day so that you get the hang of it.
Also when is is really windy try just using the jib you will find that the boat handles really well with the jib alone.

Also note that that mast gate is not Original manufacturers equipment,that is an after market item. All you need is your sail track stopper.

On another note about boat handling under power.
Try to coast into the dock out of gear at about 1 knot you will find that you still have great helm control even at low speeds. And if you need more power then put it back into gear.
Again boat is looking great

 

[CoastLife]

Thanks everyone for your help. For now we'll be doing as Robbie described. and I think I'll eventually build a mast gate out of aluminum so that the cars can sit way down in the track.

It's funny how I did try to search this issue but found nothing because of the wording of my search. to only find almost the exact same question linked in the previous thread.

Thanks again. you guys are awesome!

 

[SFS]

... My sail has reef ties that you can bunch up the reefed baggy sail and tie it to the boom.

It's not a good idea to tie the bunt of a reefed sail to the boom if it can be avoided - it's a recipe for a torn sail. Instead, use the buntlines around the sail material only.

Edit: If you don't have a loose footed main, rove the buntlines through the reef cringles, or through buntline cringles (a series of small cringles installed horizontally on the sail) if you have them. If none of that is an option, and leaving the bunt hanging is ill-advised (visibility issues, access issues to needed equipment, etc.) then buntlines can be run around the boom if left loose. Don't pull them tight!

 

[lnikl]

I have a 1983 Hunter 34. To reef, I also have to remove 2 or 3 sail slugs. There is a little thing that slides past the opening and the slugs pop out (and back in again) quite easily. I have marked my halyard so I know where to lower the sail to for reefing and that makes it even easier.

 

[Stu Jackson]

For this situation there is a thing called jack lines, not to be confused with the lines running on your deck for safety.

 

[kloudie1]

Here are a couple more shots of the jackline .. couldn't hoist the main because of too much wind.. This was the original rig, I think. You can see the bails on the main and the screwed ones on the slides.
In the picture with my fingers in it, you can see the top of the jackline just below the reef ring. It is sewn/spliced into the bolt rope.