H34 Anchor Locker Door

[mnmpizza]

I've searched and don't see any write-ups on this: My anchor locker door is very spongy. I removed the door this weekend and took it home to work on it. The gelcoat on the inside which was covering the balsa core was compromised and the core has gotten wet on the edges. So, I figured I'd start removing the core/gelcoat from the inside. The topside of mine is perfect...

Before I rebuild the door the way it was originally, I was hoping some of you already encountered and corrected this problem in years past. And, would share some steps/pictures of how it was corrected.

Here's a picture of my headstone, I mean locker cover

[partially cleaned up]:

 

[kloudie1]

Has not been a problem here (so far) .. Ya might consider going back with Klegecell foam instead of balsa.. price difference on such a small piece is negligible .. Ya may be able to find some scrap at a fiberglass shop ..

 

[mnmpizza]

Cool, never heard of Klegecell - - sounds much more friendly to water intrusion... Shannon

 

[nightowle]

mnmpizza: I have a similar problem. what tool did you use for cutting from the underside? And, was there a particular trick to cutting so you didn't cut all the way through to the top layer?

 

[mnmpizza]

I used one of these with a carbide bit:

I finished getting the remaining balsa sandwich off. Took about 45-minutes total. Now I just need to begin the repair

 

[Ward H]

The quadrant cover on my C30 has rotted. I have a sheet of G10 fiberglass board to epoxy in, in place of the wood. Probably too heavy to use on an anchor locker.

 

[mnmpizza]

All cleaned up...

 

[mnmpizza]

It seems in order to do this repair properly, I'd need to 'peel back' the gel coat? if so, what's the best method? Thanks, Shannon

 

[jviss]

It seems in order to do this repair properly, I'd need to 'peel back' the gel coat? if so, what's the best method? Thanks, Shannon

Is it too thick to grind through?

 

[Mr Fix-it]

Just purchased Hunter with the same locker door problem Previously someone drilled holes in it ??? Looking forward to reading your experience/success with this!! Good Luck

 

[mnmpizza]

I’m going to take it to the yard where my boat is tomorrow and have them give me some direction on it... Will report back by week’s end. Shannon

 

[heart of gold]

I just ground the whole thing out on the bottom and filled with cloth and resin for full thickness , no core, as I wanted the strength to mount my windlass on.

 

[jviss]

I just ground the whole thing out on the bottom and filled with cloth and resin for full thickness , no core, as I wanted the strength to mount my windlass on.

You're going to mount the windlass to the door? You'll be transferring the force to the hull through the door hinges - I don't think that's a good idea.

 

[BigEasy]

I just ground the whole thing out on the bottom and filled with cloth and resin for full thickness , no core

Shannon,
That's not a bad idea to fill it with polyester resin and matt or roving. After completely setting, you can sand the entire inside surface and spray a coat of gel coat or two part epoxy paint for a completely finished appearance. Will definitely be stronger, if the additional weight isn't a concern.
Mounting a windlass on a hinged door as Heart mentioned is not a good idea; going to rip the door off the hinges.

 

[mnmpizza]

I’m going to use “coosa board” and get it done... Will report back next week.

And no windlass

Thanks

 

[heart of gold]

Ah, yeah, I know that sounded stupid but there is more to the story. I cut the door in half, fore and aft, mounted the forward half solid, with windlass mounted on it, and the back half is still hinged for access to the chain locker. The picture shows how it turns out on a friends boat that I did as well.

 

[Mr Fix-it]

Interesting the design/configuration looks very functional. Is there an anchor (#2) stored in the locker?

 

[heart of gold]

Interesting the design/configuration looks very functional. Is there an anchor (#2) stored in the locker?

You could store the original Bruce as there is a place for it but it would take up too much room and too much weight on the bow. I pull the rode back to that spot and the chain settles in the lower locker part.

 

[Mike Culik]

Greetings,
I had the same problem with my H31.
I ended up using AZEK scraps (Lowes) as a core/filler. It’s very light weight and plastic so it isn't going to rot in the future.
I made the mistake of not maintaining the arch of the lid by clamping the AZEK pieces flat to the lid in a bed of West Systems epoxy.
I then applied glass cloth tape around the perimeter and then a full layer of Bi-axil glass cloth over everything (all with West System). I then cover coated the epoxy with brushed on white gel coat. Turned out great!
There is a lot written about not being able to cover epoxy with gel-coat, but I haven’t had a problem with my repair it in over eight years.

 

[mnmpizza]

I had the yard do it. They used coosa board. Came out nice. Charged me $350, so I’m pleased 2x