H26 Damaged Mast Base when Lowering

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sep 29, 2006
49
Hunter 26 Deltaville, VA
Mike,

Thanks for the input and the pictures! I contacted Hunter yesterday afternoon, and Ronnie Barnes (retail sales rep--great guy!) quoted me a price of $140 for the gin pole and (2) bridle wires. I am waiting on confirmation and will go that route if available. I was able to view the gin pole for the 260. It attaches differently (better) than that of 26. As you said, factory has to be better than the homemade rig we inherited.

I did want to ask you how much space is in the cavity above the interior cockpit light. I posted another question particularly about the vhf wiring. Responders seemed to think the deck connection on my boat is actually just a gland, not a connector. I am hoping that I can push the 12"+ excess cable now above deck below and make the mast wire connection in the void. This should help with protecting the PL-259 connection.

If you have to raise and lower your mast regularly, I can see why you have made your rig so user friendly. It looks very simple. Our hope and intent is to winter the boat on the trailer, so we will only be doing this twice a year. Either way, having everything right is going to be a necessity. Again, I appreciate all your help!

Thanks!

Joe
 
Aug 9, 2005
825
Hunter 260 Sarasota,FL
That's good news on the gin pole and bridle.

The deck is separated by a liner inside. I used a steel fishtape to pull my VHF wire from my radio located back at the aft berth, fwd to the area under the mast where there is ample room for some extra cable. It was tight in spots but roomy under the mast. I've had my on-deck VHF connection for 5yrs and granted it could fail, the fact is that it's holding up well. A gland like yours would seem like a fine setup just keep it lubed to prevent a leak. I imagine the life span of the antenna and wire is about 5-7yrs so mine's due. I always carry a backup radio anyway.

Most of my tweaks for mast raising cost virtually nothing and prevent the most common errors. The gin pole, normally in the way down below easily and securly clips to the mast with a 3/4" pvc coupling with the side cut out and pop riveted to the mast. The poles base socket is only a 3/4" pvc 90*. The side stay keepers simply pvc conduit straps. The 12v winch is another story @ $75 but you can use the mainsheet block just fine for seasonal trailering.

If you only step your mast seasonally I'd also service the mast light, solder/heatshrink the connection and replace the bulb while the mast is down.

Take your time, be careful and have a great season. You have a fine boat.
 
Sep 29, 2006
49
Hunter 26 Deltaville, VA
Thanks for the input on the space below the mast. I will look into that for the VHF wire. Once the boat is back in the water, my next project is to look into relocating a stereo speaker. I have seen owner pics where the speakers are mounted each side of the dome light. I would like to mimic this and run speaker wires concealed through the liner.

Having a little trouble tracking down the correct gin pole for my boat/mast combination. Ronnie Barnes at Hunter has been super receptive to phone calls and emails, not mention being most helpful. We'll get it, but the age of the boat is creating problems.

Oh, we also cut the masthead light wires. I, like you, think this is a great opportunity to replace wires and bulbs. All the wiring seems brittle, so I do not consider having to replace that a loss. I attached a picture of the masthead here. It all looks a bit squirrelly. Again, first time down so I am glad I can't claim it!

I noticed the clips and supports on your boat. That is a great solution for frequent de-masting. My one and only attempt has me a little gun-shy of doing this on a regular basis, but I am happy to see others say the opposite.

Thanks!

Joe
 

Attachments

Aug 9, 2005
825
Hunter 260 Sarasota,FL
Get rid of that old wiring and it'll pay off. If you're on that, I often think I'd like a fwd deck light on the spreader but just havn't done it. It might be an easy future option if you ran the wire while you're in there.

Ahhh speakers in a 260. I just ditched my wall mounted speakers in the V-berth. It seemed like a good spot, turned out to be really lame. They're in the way of gear storage and can't be heard in the cockpit unless it's blaring below. I bought two nice 6" rnd flush mount speakers and mounted one in the head wall right at the companionway fishing the wire up through the liner, under the sink, fwd through the v-berth and back to the stereo flush mounted in the galley wall. The other one went in the upper cabinet door over the galley. I'm very happy with the end result.

Good luck project man. Remember, the projects are only done when you hand the keys to the next owner;)

Mike
 

Attachments

Sep 29, 2006
49
Hunter 26 Deltaville, VA
Yeah, I've thought about a deck light. I think I have enough to do right now. I do like your stereo setup. I particularly like the stereo location. With the speaker relocation, I want to move the stereo. It is currently under-mounted to an added shelf at the back of the rear berth (near the transom). It was a good location at the time, but becoming inconvenient. Thinks for the input on the speaker locations. I factored in the increased volume down below, but haven't considered blocking access to the v-berth.

With all the wiring you have done, it sounds like there is a fairly accessible void between the liner and the deck. As I said before, I want to relocate some wires. Another project I have in mind is installing a pressurized water pump on the head sink. I assume there was a least a layer of foam above the liner. I guess not?
 
Jun 16, 2010
495
In search of my next boat Palm Harbor, FL
I know that you have had some good advice here already, i just thought i would add this. Isomat suggested cutting off the bottom, and re-riviting on the mast foot. This as odd as it sounds, is what Hobie Cat sailors have been doing for years. Because the mast, foot, and rivets are dissimilar metals they tend to corrode faster, and the foot pops out. We just cut 1 to 2 inches off and re-rivet. Another cat sailor who is a mast builder said the same thing. Cutting two inches off and re-riveting should be able to be taken up with the same shrouds.

On another note, I have seen plenty of postings here and on youtube where people have built mast bridles to keep the mast from swaying as it goes up. It should take tubing too heavy, since it really isnt designed to carry any weight, but I wouldnt use PVC either.

Dont claim it on your insurance... use insurance if you loose your mast overboard, not for a simple repair.
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,039
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
I was looking at your picture of the broken mast end and it looks like there is a riveted sleeve inside of the mast. I may be wrong about that but if there is, do you think that sleeve is going to fit over the mast step. It seems to me that is supposed to sit on the mast step lip. If the sleeve won't fit over you may be able to slide the sleeve up a few inches, if the mast isn't tapered in that area and there is no hardware that would block it.
 
Sep 29, 2006
49
Hunter 26 Deltaville, VA
New news! I just got off the phone with Dave Lively at Sparcraft. (I am hesitant to give these peoples' names here, but they all have been so receptive to my badgering that I am sure they would be worthwhile resources for others and appreciate the business I can pass along.) I have had some side discussions with others and Hunter, and we were scratching our heads to a possible anomaly regarding the spar and base. I think I have it resolved.

As the sticker on the mast shows, this is an isomat spar manufactured by Sparcraft out of Charlotte, NC. (As an aside, Hunter also put z-spar masts manufactured by US Spars on the model.) The cast aluminum mast base (part of the step that attaches to the mast) is an isomat component. The isomat mast with this base configuration was raised by a gin pole inserted into the hole on the front face. (I have learned that some isomat bases had a pin across the base for gin pole attachment similar to the 260.) The internal sleeve with double line of rivets on aft face and long external doubler plate on front face are not OEM. More than likely, a previous owner made some repairs/modifications after buggering up the hole and mast face. Interestingly, the color variation is a complete mystery to all, including the mast manufacturer. This is one continuous piece and not an added/replaced section.

Cutting off the mast will be difficult because of the later-added internal sleeve. As others thought, the sleeve will possibly prevent the cast aluminum mast base from seating properly when the mast is shortened. I have learned that drilling the cast aluminum base is easily done, so I am thinking that leaving the mast alone and relocating the holes may be the best solution. I have also learned that the mast can be welded. Sparcraft said that this spar section (possibly part number F67) is still made. Theoretically, I could get a short section to patch on--cutting off the bad part and attaching a short piece of section.

I just wanted to add a few more things I have learned for the benefit of others. Sparcraft still carries the mast base (possibly WE072--number is stamped on the base) and sells them for $45-$50. Supposedly, this is the part that gets damaged most often when the mast gets sideways when lowering. Sparcraft sells about 4 or 5 a year for this boat. Hunter can provide the gin pole and mast raising bridles for around $140 total.

As far as the gin pole, I just have to determine which one I have for my boat. From my discussions with Hunter, they seem to only carry the pole for the z-spar (inserts in hole) and the isomat base with pin (similar to the 260). The internal sail track on the z-spar is more pronounced, so the gin pole for the z-spar will not seat properly on the isomat track. The notch in the gin pole and the sail track seating is intended to prevent the gin pole from shifting sideways.

I do appreciate everyone's continued information. I am not in anyway meaning to cut this post off. I have just learned so much in the past 24 hours that I wanted to pass it along for future reference. Please, if anyone has learned differently than I have, feel free to pass that along.

Thanks!

Joe
 

BrianW

.
Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
Joe, I "buggered' up the jin pole hole on my H26 U.S. Spar mast. The previous owner of my boat gave me a scrapped mast that he owned and had to replace. From the scrapped mast, I cut an 18" sleeve. I did have to cut a vertical slit down the backside of the sleeve to slip it around the mast. After a little tapping and forming, the sleeve fit beautifully . I then pop rivited the sleeve liberally onto the mast. BrianW
 
Sep 29, 2006
49
Hunter 26 Deltaville, VA
Thanks Brian. That's an idea. Sparcraft said they still make this mast, but winced when I asked about getting a short section. Finding a junked mast would be ideal.

I talked to the boatyard today, and they actually suggested that if we never intended to lower it ourselves, just to set it back on the step and not attach it. We don't want to foreclose our ability to raise and lower the mast ourselves, so we'll fix it. I am encouraged how not-complicated/expensive this may be. The local metal guy is coming to look at it this week, so I hope to be able to post his reccs soon.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.