H26 Damaged Mast Base when Lowering

[jao1972]

Help with repair suggestions for mast base--1994 Hunter 26!

Well, made the boo-boo when lowering the mast. Mast fell to one side and tore away from the mast step. As the photos show, the rivets attaching the pivoting mast step tore out of the mast. The metal at the base of the mast actually tore out.

I spoke with Hunter last week, and they suggested contacting the mast manufacturer. For the 1994 Hunter 26, Charleston Spar or US Spars provided the mast. The sticker on the mast shows this as a Charleston Spar "Isomat" spar. I have emailed pictures to Jim Kulibert at Charleston Spar and am waiting on a response.

I had originally hoped the different colored material at the base of the mast was a separate piece. However, closer inspection proved it to be a continuation of the mast. Since the mast step goes inside the mast, I am hoping this can be an easy fix. I searched the forums, but did not find this exact damage.

Any suggestions will be most appreciated! Unfortunately, I believe this incident occurs more often than it should, but at least others will have some experience to pass on.

Thanks in advance!

Joe

 

[isaksp00]

I did the exact same thing last Oct when removing my H23 mast (first time unstepping for me, as new owner). I am building supports to hook up baby stays before I step it this year.

I was lucky - the fittting and mast extrusion were not damaged, since the rivets sacrificed themselves. So it should be fairly easy to rivet back on when it's a bit warmer here.

I would try:
- See if a local welder can spot weld the aluminum to fix it so you can rivet back on - some welds and a bit of grinding may do it, since the fitting's rivets probably don't bear much stress when stepped.
- Maybe grind it down smooth inside and out, and then try attaching a band of aluminum bar of similar thickness to mast tubing around bottom, riveted or bolted in place. Then use new holes through that to rivet the plate. The aluminum flat bars you can get at the big box home stores may work, but you may need a propane torch to heat in order to bend to shape.
Good luck, Peter

 

[soling42]

Slide it back on the base and rivet it everywhere it'll take one. Straighten the bent material as much as possible but I wouldn't try to put any heat on it.

The 260 has side struts that prevent your type of mistake. If I'm not mistaken the 26s' came with baby stays/cables that arrest sidewards movement. If not, I recently saw a babystay setup that you might adapt to help stepping your rig. Here's a pic that I saw in a Hunter 23 forum(I think) and a pic of the 260 strut setup. Maybe somebody will post the 26 stays that are clipped on to step the mast.

Good luck, Glad no one was hurt. Mike

 

[jao1972]

Peter and Mike,

Thanks for the quick responses! I have casually spoken to a couple of boatyards, and they had similar suggestions--welding, strapping, plates, drilling, etc. My first thought was to just drill new holes in the mast step and attach at other places. That may be the easiest fix, but the mast step metal is fairly thick and looks to be cast. I have not thought about the affect of welding heat on the aluminum mast. That is a good thought.

As far as the baby stays, they would have helped tremendously. Unfortunately those did not convey from the previous owner. (Manual calls them "mast raising bridle wires.") The manual shows them, and from my discussions with Hunter, I think I can easily make my own. I do hope someone posts a picture of them that I can use as a template. Also, the gin pole that came with the boat is homemade. I would like to see a picture of that too. I don't think one I have is quite right.

Joe

P.S. I attached a scan of the diagram for mast raising showing the bridle wires and gin pole. In my opinion, this is inferior compared to the H260 directions and not quite right for the step-by-step directions in the manual.

 

[Steve Dion]

Do you have insurance? This is what it is for.

 

[jao1972]

Yeah, claiming insurance would be helpful, but I have had some issues with the insurer on other problems with the boat. I am hesitant to pull that trigger.

See this post if you are curious about that:

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=772887#post772887

 

[isaksp00]

I don't know the 26, but the issue with the 23 (at least my model) is that it lacks a toerail on which to bolt rods. I have to create attach points for the "bridle" or baby stay lower ends that is at the same height, and athwartships in line with, the mast pivot point. Since my 23 simply has a kind of ridge molded into the deck as a toerail, I have to figure out how to attach the lower ends.

I saw one solution on this site that used tubular electrical conduit attached to stanchion bases, where the mast (upper) end attached to a sleeve that could slide up and down, solving the "triangle geometry" issue.

I have some leftover 3 inch PVC from some construction work we had done, so I intend to try to use it to build a structure that sits on the deck, straddling the molded toerail (I'll slit the PVC along its length to fit over the toerail ridge). I have not yet measured how high above this toerail (the deck surface, basically) the pivots have to be; I'm guessing the mast base is about a foot higher. I'll rig up something on top of the pipe (maybe another few pieces of 3 " PVC) to get that height, and then some kind of eye or u bolt. I'll attach u bolts on the outer side of the pipe, and use a 15 ft ratcheting web strap tie down under the hull to hold the whole things down firmly, and likely a 2nd web strap across the deck between the two to hold them from being pulled outwards. Jury rigged? Yeah, but cheap since it mostly uses leftover supplies.

 

[soling42]

I had to replace my gin pole(watched it go overboard offshore). Hunter sent one for about $100 and the stays would certainly be even less. Maybe that'd be the easiest to just get the right gear from the source at the factory (800-771-5556) to avoid the hassle of finding all the right parts and hopefully getting the dimensions right. If no one got hurt on the last dismasting maybe thats about all the grace one guy should assume.

Mike

 

[jao1972]

Mike--You are right about the bridle wires. I will just ask Hunter if they still sell them. Replacement t-ball fittings are over $20 a piece alone. Maybe the Hunter assembly will be cheap. Unfortunately for me, Hunter seems to stock less of the parts for the 1994 year model.

Peter--I am not sure what year model your 23 is, but the owner's manual for the 1994 (19, 23.5, and 26) says attach the bridle wires to the "welded eyes on the forward stanchions." My 26 has stainless steel loops welded to the lifeline stanchions (original from factory) that are at the same location and height as the mast step. I assume the 23.5 has them also. Again, I do not have the original bridle wires, but this seems like the place to attach them. From the forces I saw when lowering the mast, I would be hesitant to use PVC. The previous owner rigged up ropes on his (mine now) homemade gin pole. This seemed to stabilize the gin pole but would not prevent the mast from going sideways without the bridle wires. (I also failed to attach these and now have a bent gin pole too.)

 

[soling42]

Maybe cheap is the wrong goal when you're risking a 35' mast along with life and limb. Drilling a few SS eyes into the rail is simple enough if you build the setup pictured above but I wouldn't mess with a bent gin pole. The forces to raise your mast are enormous on the 26/260. Do it wrong and it'll be another mess along with wasted sailing days.....not cheap.

I had a dock on the wrong side of a bridge for a while and came up with a simple mast raising setup with a 12v ATV winch w/remote powered by a jump start pack in the anchor locker. With the forestay lever it was a snap and I often did it underway. Here's a few pics but get your rigging in order first.

Be safe, Mike

 

[DJN51]

Had simliar damage to mast on 78 chrysler 20,had a repair shop weld a1 1/2 " wide 3 1/6 thick plate around base.Thru bolted plate to mast since plate was open in middle,still works today.On my 23.5 bridle attach to welded loops on front stanchions.Bridles are 5 ft 1/8 in wire with t ball one end to mast ,pelican to stanshions.

 

[Steve Dion]

I agree that submitting an insurance claim is not the best idea unless there is no other practial way to "safely" make the repair. You best best is to deal with an Isomat dealer and get their suggestion.

If the dealer can machine the bottom of the mast so you can cut off the damaged portion and replace it with a sleeved piece would make the most sense.

 

[Dave D]

jao1972,

my '94 H26 had stainless loops on two of the lifeline stanchions at midship, one end of the bridle attached there and the other attached to a reinforced hole in each side of the mast about 4(?) feet up. Really takes the pucker out of stepping that mast if you're launch area is prone to gusts!

I also ordered a raising pole from Hunter a couple of years ago, and like previously stated it's only about $100. One thing I like about the OEM part is that the mast end is profiled to fit the contour of the inside of the mast, which helps make sure the pole is seated and does not risk shifting and damaging the mast where the pole enters.

I can tell you that it will take several times raising and lowering before you become fully competent, and try to guard against getting fully confident,as that's often where danger lurks.

 

[jao1972]

I completely agree with Dave. Raising and lowering the mast is not as easy as Hunter would lead you to believe. Caution is the key.

The manual provides the dimensions for the bridle wires, and I can match the t-ball fittings based on what will fit in the mast. If Hunter can't provide the bridle wires, I will make my own to match oem specs available in the manual. Obviously haven't used them, but I think a good addition would be adjustable turnbuckles with hooks instead of just hooks for attachment to stanchions to control any tension on the wires.

I heard back from the Isomat mast dealer. He suggested cutting off the damaged portion of the mast and re-drilling the mast. I am hesitant to alter the sail dimensions (rigging, etc., will be out of whack). The only problem I see with mating a new piece to the end is now you are increasing the height of the mast.

The dealer did say that the mast step is cast aluminum and can be drilled. I am thinking that if 3 rivets could hold the mast originally, 6 smaller machine screws in drilled and tapped holes could do the job too. I can locate the new holes each side of the torn out sections.

I do appreciate everyone's input here! I have learned a lot!!!

BTW: Someone up for making a video thoroughly explaining how to raise and lower the mast on these boats? Might be very helpful to others that come after us!

 

[jao1972]

Sorry Steve, I didn't catch your comment about cutting off the base before attaching the piece. That is a good idea. I was hoping the mast dealer had a part like this since this seems to happen more often than it should, but he didn't.

 

[soling42]

IF you could find a replacement you could just take off the obvious extension that has already been placed on the lower section of your mast from it's previous date with death but I wouldn't bother. Just re-rivet(not screws) the base back on the tabernacle, get someone to help who knows how to set up your boat, step the mast(with the right hardware) and go sailing. If you use the Hunter designed gear and procedure this mast will step just as easily as they claim. Really. I've done it a hundred times single handed without incident.

If "this happens more than it should" it's because everything can be broken without the right procedure. It's not a defect in the design. It's a lack of proper eqt and experience. There are dozens of how-to threads on how to step a mast safely. Search the knowledge base. Done by-the-book this is the easiest large mast raising system available. It can be even easier(search KB) but you need to figure out how to do it right every time. At 35'+ it's a big mast and must get your respect as I would hope it now does.

A few key tips:
*Watch the side stay and forestay T-fittings on the mast. They can twist or unseat when the rigs going up!! (most common reason for dismasting)Solution is a simple keeper placed around them.

*Watch the turnbuckles at the rail. They can be poorly aligned and break during final tightening. Solution, insert foam into deck eyes to hold them upright.

*Always raise the mast with both the spinnaker halyard and jib halyard as a backup(if you have a roller furling jib). Obviously make sure both ends are well secured to sound cleats on the mast.

*Just before you lift take a last around look for stays or lines that may foul your continuous lift or even mast fitting that look askew and then go all the way up in one move.

*If you feel/hear ANY WEIRD RESISTANCE STOP!! But only reluctantly and then do a better job anticipating prior issues.

*Lastly, NEVER let someone stand in a zone that might get them killed if something breaks. It can be a real buzz kill...

Be safe and go sailing. It'll all come together.
Mike

 

[Bilgewater]

Here is the side stay from my 95 H26. As you can see, it does not have a T-ball on the end, just a swaged hook. Pelican hook for the fitting on the stantion. Hope this helps.

 

[MABell]

Drill and tap

I’ve drilled and tapped the mast base on my H26. Not difficult. Took the threads just fine (use some oil on the tap bit).

 

[jao1972]

Thanks for the picture of the mast raising bridle wire! That is exactly what I needed. What you have looks similar to the diagram in the manual that I posted earlier. Interesting that the rigging page describes the end as a t-ball fitting. To be honest, I think the hook you have is just fine.

I am going to contact Sparcraft (a.k.a. Charleston Spar) with one more question, but ultimately I believe I am going to drill and tap the mast step. As bad as this may seem, I cannot be happier that the mast tore instead of damaging the top deck. I would rather have metal tear out if this happens again.

Again, I cannot thank everyone enough for their comments and help! Mike, thanks for you helpful thoughts regarding raising and lowering the mast. I only wish the manual had been so detailed.

I do have one last question. If someone has a picture of the OEM gin pole, do you mind posting it? I am considering ordering a pole from Hunter and want to see how far off my homemade one is.

BTW, be on the lookout for next post about the deck wiring for the vhf antennae. (That line got cut in the "incident" and will need to be replaced.)

 

[soling42]

While I'm not using the bridles with the hook, the manual reference might have confused the sidestay T fitting(from my warning tips) for the bridles hooks by mistake. Hooks make far more sense for the bridle.

The side stay T fittings are only effective with a vertical load and will easily fall out of place so when raising the mast on my boat all 3 get a simple 1/2" 2hole pvc strap to keep them aligned/seated correctly every time(see pic).

Here's the pic of the gin pole from my 260. It's SS but much heavier than a piece of SS railing with a semi circular notch on the mast end and a stainless cable with eyes pressed on the halyard/block end(pic). It measures from the back of the tabernacle to the block attachment in the anchor locker. It's a tough dawg that I now store cliped right onto the mast with the line permanently attached so I don't lose another one.

The pic of the base also shows the VHF and Light connectors that are accessed from the dome light inside the boat.

Glad to help. Mike