H26 / 260 motor mount measurments

Fred · Apr 24, 2017

Check the recent thread on "Best way to connect tiller and outboard on H240." for some pictures. My brackets are the same size on both sides however I padded the outside one by almost 1.5 inches to get the mounting board more perpendicular to the boat. I measured the brackets the other day and, going by memory, they are 4 inches at the longest point. My brackets are angled from top to bottom to tilt the mounting board down somewhat. I'm not sure why that was done. It tends to bring the motor down more than I would like and it also reduces the effective motor tilt relative to the water line. If I rebuilt the brackets I would remove the angle and make the outside one 1.5 inches longer than the inside bracket. I thought of removing the brackets altogether but discovered that the reason for them is to provide the necessary turning clearance for the motor, especially if it is fitted with remote control cables.

Crazy Dave Condon · Apr 25, 2017

When a motor is hung, the best position is the motor essentially perpendicular to the length of the hull. Transom angles vary which is why angled brackets are needed. A good example is the reverse angle on the Hunter 23. As pointed out, if the bracket mounts are a little longer, it may help the cables to clear better going to a side mount control or those with a wheel. It also helps for the motor to turn easier and helps the lower housing from hitting the transom. However, the longer the mounting brackets, not only more cost but in some cases a little more flimsy. Can you send us a photo of the current set up so we can help more.

As for the specs on the current bracket on the 26, it was bolted to the transom which is why your reasoning is a valid one. I use to upgrade with the brackets offered for the 240/260 which fit. The forum store does sell them. Ok I may be wrong but as some know me, a photo would should help my memory. If you want specs, call them and they can advise. The new owner of SBO use to work for Hunter from the manufacturing to the retail. Phil and Bly are helping out and all of those folks are dedicated to helping the customer.

Rgranger, do you have a photo of your boat showing the set up of the transom motor mount. Thank you my friend

John23883 · May 17, 2017

Here.

Kermit · May 17, 2017

If the mount for the H260 is the same as the H26 I'm pretty sure there's an H260 veeeeeeery close to you to look at. Well, it better be close to you.

Crazy Dave Condon · May 18, 2017

The brackets of the 260 motor mount will work well for the 26 as they are the same bolt pattern and bolt size to extend the fixed mont outward to make it a lot easier to pull or tilt motor up. Can be purchased the forum store

Fred · May 20, 2017

Here is another picture of my installation. If I were to rebuild the brackets I would make the outside one longer and eliminate the downward angle. Reason for this is so that when the motor is tilted up while sailing it would less likely drag in the water when heeling.

p369 · Jul 20, 2017

i have a similar mount problem problem on my boat with a new install of a yamaha 9.9 I think. There isn't enough clearance to turn the motor/rudder fully in the up position. The shift cable is hitting the motor well. @Fred, have you had any problems with setting the motor back with the spacers? My dealer wants to move it back 5 inches or so. I'm weary of the stress putting it that far back would put on the fiberglass transom. It looks like you've only set yours 2-3 inches back. Do you have any issues with steering? I'm wondering if it would be better to mount it a little higher as well. Any thoughts or recommendations? thanks!

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 21, 2017

If you are concerened about the transom of the 260, it was designed for up to 10 hp but with the new four stroke engines, they are heavier than the older two stroke. You can but it can be done to put plates on the inside to distribute the load out along the transom inside wall.

Fred · Jul 21, 2017

As I read this I am on a cruising vacation in Georgian Bay. With the setback that I have the motor steers fine (I do not have the tiller model). As indicated previously I would raise mine slightly by removing the down tilt on the brackets. Later today I'll try take pics in the extreme steering positions.

I trailer with the motor mounted but install a temporary strap from the motor to the pushpit rails to offload the mount somewhat. I have not noticed cracking or flexing.

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 21, 2017

Fred that has worked fine for my customers for many years when I was a dealer now retired. by keeping the motor tied up like that keeps it from bouncing and that is the key.

Fred · Jul 21, 2017

Here are the promised photos. The motor steering is limited by the bracket I installed for my rudder steering bit otherwise all is clear. My boat is a H26.

p369 · Jul 22, 2017

Fantastic! Thank you! Did you install a backing plate for the mount inside the transom as well?

Fred · Jul 22, 2017

I didn't. I believe that there is a tapped aluminum plate embedded in the transom. I'll take a look tomorrow to see what's inside.

p369 · Jul 22, 2017

I went to the dealer to take a look first hand at the problem. Unfortunately, the battery died and the motor would not return to the full up position for the picture. The picture shows the motor in the full down position. The linkage in the red circle is the shifter and the wheel actually seems to have full steering when down. When it is fully up, however, the shifter linkage rotates down and gets stuck behind the step (I think it's a step) as annotated by the red arrow and i can't turn to starboard.

so far the solutions I have come up with are:
--use a setback like you have
--install a new motor mount
--disconnect the EZ steer rod while sailing (I've seen another user on these forums that has this set up, but I can't remember who...)
--cut the step shorter (not seriously considering this...can't imagine many who would reccomend that either)

OR possibly...

--swap for the tiller version and convert to remote like @MaxinCalgary. Looking at some factory photos, it appeared the tiller was on the port side of the motor and depending on the space the conversion takes up, it may give room to turn port to starboard without hitting the step. I'm not sure what the cost would be to remove everything the dealer just installed and ordering a tiller model/ returning the remote model either.

@Fred, it looks like you only put the set back on one side. Does that induce any yawing moment on your boat?

MaxinCalgary · Jul 22, 2017

Hi will try and post some pics.
my shift lever is on the same side as yours. Even with a tiller model converted to remote. I sail for the most part with the engine down and loose about 1/2 knot. If I do raise the engine Remove the eZsteer rod of the engine anyway as it stops the engine weight pushing the wheel. I did this with the 18HP Nissan the boat came with.
So when the engines tilted upend on one side the linkage is not a problem and is ok the fully down.
I don't know how much torque the mount could handle if you extended it out further. as the engine is not that heavy but has a lot more torque than most engines in use when the boat was designed .

Kermit · Jul 23, 2017

I unhook the EzSteer while sailing. At first I removed it completely and stowed it. Now I just unhook it from the motor and leave the rudder end attached. Gives me back my full range of steering while sailing.

Crazy Dave Condon · Jul 23, 2017

encapsulated aluminum plate in the fiberglass is there which the bolts are drilled and tapped to.

Fred · Jul 23, 2017

On the H26 if you do NOT have uneven setback you WILL introduce a yawning moment unless the motor is permanently turned. The stock motor mount is NOT square with the forward direction of the boat. Moreover unless it is squared the motor may tend to drag more when tilted up and the boat is heeling.

H26 / 260 motor mount measurments

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