H23.5 Replacing Jam Cleats and other modifications

[Chris Flanagan]

I am looking to replace the worn out jam cleats with a double rope clutch one for the main halyard and the centerboard line or jib sheet(?), however the footprint for the width is perfect, it is longer in length than the footprint, but the screw holes will still be within the reinforced raised area. This will leave a gap once installed which I could fill with 5200? Any thoughts? Other suggestions?

I will still use the original cleats to secure the lines for the furling jibs, however I have seen where cam cleats on another H23.5 were mounted and screwed into the top of the cleat to offer a quick release found that as an interesting modification. Thoughts on that?

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Chris
On the road and will respond shortly tomorrow

 

[Joe]

I don't recommend rope clutches for jib sheets, or any cleat that keeps the sheet captive. Too slow to operate when you want to completely throw off a line... An open cam cleat would work best, you could experiment with a wire fairlead without spending any money... if you use standard (not self tailing), winches then an open cam cleat located behind the winch is preferred. I've seen some people use the Spinlock style cam cleat that holds the line captive but can be operated with one hand by snapping the line up, but it still has the possibility of a rope jam when you need the line to run free in a tack.

 

[Chris Flanagan]

That makes sense. My original plan for the double rope clutch was just for the main halyard and centerboard. Thanks for your help!

 

[Rick Webb]

mine has a triple
main halyard
jib halyard
centerboard cascade

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@Chris Flanagan
The old style fixed cam cleat on the deck vs. a horn cleat was an improvement but two things with that cam cleat were problematic. Without something atop of the cam cleat for example a metal stainless steel strap, it was hard to get the line back into the cam cleat. The second was securing from the cockpit into the jam cleat being back so far as it would not allow the captain to secure that line into the camcleat due to the travel of that line making it difficult to do so. I use to add an eye strap to the top of the cam cleat so to keep the line in for lack of terms and placing wedges or risers on the front of the camcleat to elevate it up so when the line was pulled thru it would appropriately lock into place. In nearly 30 years things change. The first better cam cleat was one affixed that would rise up when released with mfg. made shims to rise that up if too far back on the topside deck from the cockpit coaming. Then came the swivel cam cleats with bulls eye cars vs. the straps which I used for the jib sheets that worked well from any angle in the cockpit of the Hunter water ballast sailboats and others too. Ronstan and Harken are two such companies that make them. There are various sizes but would suggest that you get the one that will accommodate up to 1/2 inch for your 3/8 inch jib sheets. The forum store does offer them but you want the ones that will accommodate up to 1/2 inch line.

As for securing to the deck, I would remove the old style cam cleat reattaching with smaller screws of course caulked or you could fill in with two part epoxy and add gell coat or what ever you would want to do. staying within the raised portion where the rope clutches are. I would suggest predrilling first to ensure that metal shavings are coming out to indicate for sure you have the encapsulated aluminum plate in the fiberglass. I would a small drill bit first. As for caulking, 4200 or butyl tape. 5200 would not be suggested. Others will chime in but that pretty much sums it up. Joe also gave some good advice about moving that as close to the cockpit within that raised area. Hopes that helps.

 

[Chris Flanagan]

Thanks Dave very helpful and thanks for taking the time to respond.