Got Questions? Ask Them Here.

Feb 6, 1998
11,672
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I've got one at home that has one 1/4" and one 5/16"
What you are probably seeing is 5/16" negative & 3/8" positive which has been the industry standard. Sadly over the last few years it has been trending towards 5/16" and 5/16"...

I have never seen a GC battery with 1/4" studs but there is always a possibility....
 
Sep 2, 2011
1,041
Hunter 27 Cherubini Alum Creek State Park
What you are probably seeing is 5/16" negative & 3/8" positive which has been the industry standard. Sadly over the last few years it has been trending towards 5/16" and 5/16"...

I have never seen a GC battery with 1/4" studs but there is always a possibility....
Im sorry. My mistake. You're right. At work, head filled with nonsense...
 

Gunni

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Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
I use the same Merc Marine grease I use on my outboard bushings. Pack it into an epoxy syring, pinch the boot, give it a shot under the lip, rotate the shaft and do the same on each of 4 quadrants of the shaft.
 
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weinie

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Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
Thanks guys. I actually was able to just google the part number for the grease and get the actual stuff online for pretty cheap too. It's got a thin nozzle to squeeze it into the rubber stuffing box too, which is nice.


Next question:
Balmar Smartgauge: When I reconnect my batteries, will it 'remember' them or will it have to relearn them?
 

weinie

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Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
ok... thanks. I guess I will just charge the batts up full overnight before launch and then just re-program the unit to 100%.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,422
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
ok... thanks. I guess I will just charge the batts up full overnight before launch and then just re-program the unit to 100%.
If I understand the SmartGauge correctly, connect it and then charge your batteries. The charge rate is part of the algorithm that allows it to monitor SOC.
 
Jan 17, 2013
442
Catalina 310 St. Simons Island, GA
Maine,
Have a question about my 2 x 4D battery bank connected in parallel. I recently posted about my new solar installation with a single panel on a pole that is aimable. My boat is at a dock most of the time with shore power. Is it better to leave my charger on to keep the batteries fully charged or doing what I have been doing which is to turn the charger off. I run my fridge all the time so at night the battery bank drops to about 91% of charge and then the panel has them back to 100% by about midday. Is it better for battery health and longevity to allow them to cycle like that or should I keep my battery charger turned on? FYI, it is a brand new Promariner 30 amp smart charger. Thanks
bob
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,672
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Maine,
Have a question about my 2 x 4D battery bank connected in parallel. I recently posted about my new solar installation with a single panel on a pole that is aimable. My boat is at a dock most of the time with shore power. Is it better to leave my charger on to keep the batteries fully charged or doing what I have been doing which is to turn the charger off. I run my fridge all the time so at night the battery bank drops to about 91% of charge and then the panel has them back to 100% by about midday. Is it better for battery health and longevity to allow them to cycle like that or should I keep my battery charger turned on? FYI, it is a brand new Promariner 30 amp smart charger. Thanks
bob
Leave the charger on..

The idea that solar can recharge to 100% SOC by midday is rarely if ever happening and it is Ah counters that mislead folks...

Even if we assume you are only discharging to 90% SOC, and assuming we actually got to 100% SOC the day before, at face value that would mean we need to replace approx 25Ah. At an average of 5A that is 5 hours Now we have to subtract the fridge cycle-time and any other DC loads are on and we're now pushing beyond 3:00 PM at face value and we've not even considered charge efficiency or poor charge algorithms.. Unfortunately batteries don't charge at "face value" they charge with a worsening charge efficiency the higher you go in SOC. Once at constant voltage (absorption or float) the battery decides how long charging takes not the array.

The last 10% of SOC for battery charge efficiency is horribly inefficient. In the upper 90's it gets as bad as only .35Ah for every 1Ah delivered to the battery being converted to usable stored energy. Sandia National labs actually studied solar and charge efficiency and they never attained the rated capacity of the battery, which means it was not getting full within the time parameters and this was due to charge efficiency.

It is very difficult to get typical deep cycle lead acid batteries to 100% in a single solar day due to how long the current taper is. The best course of action is a mix of alternator or genset and charger to get through bulk and a ways into absorption then let the solar finish it. Depending upon the health of the batteries, or the type, and your on-board DC loads, you may be able to get to 100% SOC in one solar day but on a boat it is less likely than it is likely..

Even a very healthy basically brand new Trojan flooded lead acid battery, charged at .15C or 15% of its Ah capacity, for your bank this would be a 43.5A charge rate, takes nearly 7 full hours to get to 100% SOC from 50%.


IMPORTANT: The absorption voltage of 14.6V (ideally it should be 14.8V but this test was to mimic a customers best case scenario at his chargers limit) was held constant for the entire charge cycle all the way to 100% SOC. If you drop to a float voltage any time before you hit 100% SOC the charge time to 100% SOC will be extended by many hours or even days.

As the batteries age and sulfate this time only extends. It is not uncommon to see flooded batteries that take 10+ hours to go from 50% SOC to 100% SOC. Starting at 91% does not really shorten the acceptance part of charging because the battery determines that.

On top of all that we have factory charge algorithms that enter float prematurely, many at just 2 hours, and they often have too low an absorption or float voltage. All of these parameters, absorption time, absorption voltage and float voltage, unless heavily custom modified, and also greatly extend your time to 100% SOC. If you drop to a 13.2V float, after just 2 hours at 14.2V, your charge time to 100% SOC could be measured in days not hours..

My point is that you will often be PSOC cycling your battery with solar, where as with a charger it will always be at 100% SOC even with the fridge loads. While shallow cycling is better for batteries than deep cycling no cycling is better. On top of that 4D batteries are really not very good cycling batteries, because they are not a deep cycle battery, so the best course of action, for 4D or any batteries, is to not cycle them if you have the option not to.
 
Jan 17, 2013
442
Catalina 310 St. Simons Island, GA
Thank you kindly for that excellent response. Will leave the charger on. How often should the batteries be equalized? They are about 6 months old and I did it this past weekend for the first time. Every 90 days?
bob
 
Sep 20, 2015
123
Navigator 4200 Classic New Bern, NC
I am getting ready to start assembling my new battery system (thanks for ALL the help so far!). I am turning a 3-bank rig into a 2-bank. I currently don't have an alternator combiner... (It's on the list) I have dual Volvo 6.3l power plants. and am on the stock alternators (I don't know what the output is at this point). Is it okay, until I can complete the rest of the rig, to wire one alternator to each bank? House back is 8xGC-2 NAPA batteries and the starts are 3xDuracell Group 24 Dual purpose. I worry the single alt is nowhere near big enough for the house bank.
 
Sep 28, 2008
922
Canadian Sailcraft CS27 Victoria B.C.
You could. I would wire both alts the the house bank and use an ACR between banks to charge the house bank. House bank could be down a lot while a dedicated start bank will never be down much.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,776
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I have a really dumb question, but have not run across the answer yet....

I "watered" my group 27 batteries last year while sailing with my son. He was at the helm, and I was bored, so thought I would add some water to the batteries. Added distilled water to each cell on both batteries...

And within a few minutes, the radio went out...and them my son called down and said all of the instruments went off. I checked the volt meter and batteries were essentially dead.

So, what did I do wrong? Too much water added and diluted the acid? Are you supposed to have them on a charger when adding water?

Certainly don't want to go through that again!

PS- put the batteries on the charger at the dock, and they rebounded, and I am still,using them...

Greg
 
Sep 20, 2015
123
Navigator 4200 Classic New Bern, NC
You could. I would wire both alts the the house bank and use an ACR between banks to charge the house bank. House bank could be down a lot while a dedicated start bank will never be down much.
Won't they fight against each other by sensing each other's charging voltage?
 
Sep 20, 2015
123
Navigator 4200 Classic New Bern, NC
Are there any best practices for a brand new battery install? Is there a break in period or proceedure?

8xGC-2 house, 3xGroup 24, Sterling 60A charger, Blue Sea ACR, and Victron monitor.
 
Sep 25, 2008
958
Macgregor & Island Packet VENTURE 25 & IP-38 NORTH EAST, MD
Maine, I just installed a PSS shaft seal and after reading your "how to", I installed a Taco Hy-vent at the end of my vent line. Its a nice, clean way to finish the vent line off. One silly question though, the threaded cap on the top of the vent, what do you do with that? tighten it up or leave it loose? If its loose, what keeps it from vibrating off? or isn't the cap really needed? Thanks for your help and informative "how to's".
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Maine, I have a non boating related question regarding the use of zinc anodes. I know on our boats that the zinc anodes help prevent corrosion of the steel parts. I'm in the midst of redesigning a satellite television distribution system for a high-rise Building located directly on the beach. The existing system was installed in powder coated Steel boxes. With all of the salt from the ocean these boxes have rusted to pieces in a very short period of time. They are 24x24x11 locking low voltage distribution boxes, and I can't find anything in plastic for a price that works, that will do the job. I was wondering if I rebuild using the same style new boxes but add zinc anodes to them do you think the zincs will prevent the boxes from corroding? Yhe boxes look like this.

APB2424Ml.jpg
 
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