We just switch our policies from BoatUS to SkiSafe and saved 48%. They are a part of GEICO and the underwriter is AXIS Insurance. Here is a thread on it. http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=138684
Fishermens Village Marina
- Thread starter jwieneck
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Don't think I will make that date but you never know. I have the hauler now and the yard in Racine is getting some jobs done. I would be interested in you guys thoughts on what i need down south.
1. I already put a barrier coat (6 coats) on last season so will put 3 coats for a ablative bottom paint this will give it 6 coats over all
2. Having a dripless packing put in to keep the bilge dry
3. Putting a line in to drain the condensation water from the AC over board.
Do I need
1. Full encloser my wife and I have been thinking about it to keep the bugs out and weather etc. do I need this?
2. Radar do I need this for local sailing?
What else do I need for local sailing. I will end up traveling to the keys and around to the islands but for now local sailing will be my life.
1. I already put a barrier coat (6 coats) on last season so will put 3 coats for a ablative bottom paint this will give it 6 coats over all
2. Having a dripless packing put in to keep the bilge dry
3. Putting a line in to drain the condensation water from the AC over board.
Do I need
1. Full encloser my wife and I have been thinking about it to keep the bugs out and weather etc. do I need this?
2. Radar do I need this for local sailing?
What else do I need for local sailing. I will end up traveling to the keys and around to the islands but for now local sailing will be my life.
Not much need for radar here. Enclosure with screening will be valuable if you want to go to state parks like Cayo Costa or Caladesi island, the 10,000 islands or the Everglades. Most towns and cities spray for mosquitos.
Second anchor is always good. Mostly sand and mud here, so at least one s/b a danforth or fortress. Our experience is that a windlass encourages me to up anchor and relocate if the wind shifts or a thoughtless powerboater anchors too close.
I am 71 have a bad heart, but I love big anchors and chain rode, so electric windlass is very important to me personally.
Salt water washdown hose will be important when you anchor in the mud. You can Tee off the head intake. I ran a lot of wire and put the washdown switch in the anchor locker so it is handy.
Check the schedule at pgscweb.com for other cruises you might be interested in.
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OK here is the update. We have a slip in Fisherman’s Village starting in mid May. The boat hauler is looking to deliver between May 6th and 10th to Charlotte Harbor Yard. The hauler delivers more to that yard then All American yard. The boat should be in the water by May 11 and hope to be in the slip a day or two after. I do have a few questions that I hope one of you can answer.
1. I will have done the bottom paint (5 coat of ablative paint) before I haul down. The question is do you paint, spray, coat the prop and the shaft? I do not do anything in the great lakes with these. Do you do anything to the transducer other boat of boat stuff?
2. Do I need to get a local to help me travel across the bay for the first time? The chart looks pretty simple but do not want to run a ground on day one.
3. Since the boat will be left for long periods of time closed up what is the preferred way to deal with moisture. Do you just plug in a dehumidifier? Hang moisture stuff? Leave the AC on moisture control setting?
It is getting closer I was down in the marina on Tuesday looks much nicer than I thought.
1. I will have done the bottom paint (5 coat of ablative paint) before I haul down. The question is do you paint, spray, coat the prop and the shaft? I do not do anything in the great lakes with these. Do you do anything to the transducer other boat of boat stuff?
2. Do I need to get a local to help me travel across the bay for the first time? The chart looks pretty simple but do not want to run a ground on day one.
3. Since the boat will be left for long periods of time closed up what is the preferred way to deal with moisture. Do you just plug in a dehumidifier? Hang moisture stuff? Leave the AC on moisture control setting?
It is getting closer I was down in the marina on Tuesday looks much nicer than I thought.
1. I prime and paint the shaft and prop. Wears off the prop if you motor a lot. If it wears off, you will need to scrape the barnacles off maybe every 2 weeks. WOT boat speed will go to hell with barnacles on the prop.
There is special DF transducer paint for a lot of money. I just use bottom paint. Thru hull DF pucks are popular here as are multiple depth sounders.
2. No. The fresh water course is all man made dredging. SB no problem. Hug the starboard shore after coming out of the lock. Check tides with the boat yard. You can if need be anchor overnight in the wide spot in the freshwater channel and come out of the lock next morning. Or if you get out late, get well east of the lock to avoid traffic then head in to the south shore of the Myakka watching all of your depth finders. anchor when you start to feel uncomfortable. Do not turn east till past Myakka red #8. Head out toward Peace River green#1. Stay south of the charted 4 poles marking a fishing reef.
3. All three will work. If you are paying for electricity, run your a/c. If you run a dehumiifier, run tubing into the sink. Those little buckets fill up quickly here.
There is special DF transducer paint for a lot of money. I just use bottom paint. Thru hull DF pucks are popular here as are multiple depth sounders.
2. No. The fresh water course is all man made dredging. SB no problem. Hug the starboard shore after coming out of the lock. Check tides with the boat yard. You can if need be anchor overnight in the wide spot in the freshwater channel and come out of the lock next morning. Or if you get out late, get well east of the lock to avoid traffic then head in to the south shore of the Myakka watching all of your depth finders. anchor when you start to feel uncomfortable. Do not turn east till past Myakka red #8. Head out toward Peace River green#1. Stay south of the charted 4 poles marking a fishing reef.
3. All three will work. If you are paying for electricity, run your a/c. If you run a dehumiifier, run tubing into the sink. Those little buckets fill up quickly here.
High
Make sure you are at the locks at high tide or else with my 5 ft draft you will be stuck or srcaping off the new bottom paint off bottom of keel and ask how I know,once out the locks just follow markers out to deep water and the rest is easy to fisherman's.
You should be able to let them put you at the dock the day before ready to go next day or same day depending on high tide is very important if your draft iks 5 ft.
Bill has given you all excellent info,I dive my own boat to keep prop clean and don't paint shaft or prop and don't forget new Zinc.
5 coats ??? bottom paint,I use SR 40 or SR 60 2 coats and lasts 3-4 years if in the area full 12 months and sail each week helps keep bottom cleaner.
nick :dance:
Make sure you are at the locks at high tide or else with my 5 ft draft you will be stuck or srcaping off the new bottom paint off bottom of keel and ask how I know,once out the locks just follow markers out to deep water and the rest is easy to fisherman's.
You should be able to let them put you at the dock the day before ready to go next day or same day depending on high tide is very important if your draft iks 5 ft.
Bill has given you all excellent info,I dive my own boat to keep prop clean and don't paint shaft or prop and don't forget new Zinc.
5 coats ??? bottom paint,I use SR 40 or SR 60 2 coats and lasts 3-4 years if in the area full 12 months and sail each week helps keep bottom cleaner.
nick :dance:
Filled up and pumped out at fisherman's village today... Never realized they had tennis courts and a pool! It was very nice.
I am think 5 coats because I put three (one red, two blue) two years ago and at haul out this last fall several areas are down to gray or red. The bow show gray on the point which is the barrier coat. The front edge for the rudder and the keel is showing red which is the first coat. So I thougt I would add a couple more coats. Maybe the WM albative paint is not as good as what you guys use.
I pay $60 for my h34. Most quotes I hear are $2 a foot. Also I buy the zinc and they install it for nothing.
I will have new zinc put on and then use the diver to help like you indicate. I am sure there is not right answer but how long does the zinc normally last?
I wondering if bottom growth is worse or better depending on location. For example in the marina is it worse than in the backyard (canal system).
Zincs can last 3-6 months depending. Wiring in Fishville is top notch.., Boats vary and you may get electrloisis from your neighbors.
What grows on boat bottoms are filter feeders. If you are on a high flow canal, you will get extraordinary growth. Fishville does not have much circulation and dead end canals have almost none, so growth will be minimal both places.
I wanted to give an update to those who helped me with information. The boat is getting loaded this Friday. She should arrive on the 7th or 8th of May. I will take a day to put her back together and then solo her across the bay to Fishermans Village. For you local other than the shallow water out side the fresh water lock is there any obstacles to watch out for?
I hope to catch with many of you face to face once I am in the slip.
I hope to catch with many of you face to face once I am in the slip.
Stay in the channel to FV and don't cut over early to the marina, turn in front of the restaurant then hang a right into the marina.
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