First Sail - Finally - Hunter 15

[esterhazyinoz]

I launched my boat, Tallulah - a new Hunter 15, for the first time this weekend on the Swan River in Perth, Western Australia. Fortunately the winds were only 5-8 knots, a civilised wind speed for my first time in this small boat.
It seemed like an age before everything was ready to get her wet, Trailer modification, licensing of trailer and boat (two separate gov't agencies), upgrade of a few of the bits I didn't like (just about everything I did like mind you).
Even though I was planning to go out single handed, I asked a neighbour if he'd put his life in my hands and help launch and sail Tallulah on her maiden voyage.
Also I learned the importance of crew positioning re balancing the boat, particularly in light winds.
Glad to report we had just a great time. The experience confirmed why I bought this boat; easy to launch, sail and maintain. First time set up took 20 minutes (I did a dry run the day before), launching less than ten and retrieval and pack away about another 15-20. Living only 3 minutes from the launch ramp I know I will be sailing a lot over the year

 

[Ed Schenck]

Lucky guy! Close to the water with an easy to launch boat. That will certainly keep the expenses low. But isn't it winter down there? Do you have a furling jib? That is what takes the time on my Highlander, hanking on the foresail and then putting it away. Do you use a motor? I have one but seldom use it. Sail away from the dock and then paddle in.

 

[esterhazyinoz]

Yes it is the start of winter here but last weekend the weather was perfect, blue sky and 71 degrees F. Also yes I have a furling jib (standard I believe on all 146/15 models) and although I expected it to be a hassell to put on and take off it wasn't so bad. As I had someone with me I had him wind up the trailer winch which I had attached to the main halyard while I was in the boat walking/lifting the mast forward. I bought a block system on ebay last week ( two fiddle blocks, one with a camcleat) that I plan to use when I singlehand (this was suggested by one of the other posters to this forum). Also the jib is now still attached to the mast and being protected by the sail cover that came with the boat (I really have no other use for this). Pulling that Jib/Forestay off the mast every time would be a real time eater. When deep dark winter strikes (it never really gets below 50F here) I will probably store it. I wish there was a easy way to take that system off the mast. Now it has the same connection as the shrouds ( clevis pin connection to mast fitting ).
RE motor, no not yet ( looking for a 2nd hand air cooled Honda 2hp). Where I launch from it's a broad reach away from a little sandy beach into a very wide bay in the river. Coming back it is easy to just luff up when you get back to that beach and lead the boat back onto the trailer. I want the motor to explore the upper parts of the Swan River that I can't sail to ( one bloody low bridge is in the way and the river narrows)
Cheers

 

[BlueRunner]

If you want an engine, I would strongly recommend a 2hp that has an "idler" system that serves as a neutral gear. That is the kind of engine my used 170 came with. However, I was a bit worried that someone would steal it while my boat is moored.

I recently picked up a 10' skiff that came with a '90 2hp engine with NO idle. Thinking I didn't care whether someone stole this engine or not, I switched it to my 170 and stored the Honda. When the older engine is started, I'm moving and that may NOT be good in a sailboat. I'm not EVER going to put that engine back on my 170. I recently dinged up my rudder because of that. So, the good Honda is now back on my 170 and other than locked, I'll let my insurance company worry about it.

I just had the new Honda tuned up and was VERY surprised at what a new one costs ($1250 US). I frequently see another 170 on my lake and he has an electric motor that seems to work fine. The only problem with this is battery storage and running a power cable back to the engine. He has his battery up in the front of the boat (not sure how it's tied down).

Another option that I would not recommend is an electric motor attached directly to the rudder. I have this setup on a 12' sailing/row boat. However, I don't like it because the drag of the prop slows the boat down and for some reason, makes the boat very hard to steer through the wind when coming about.

In your area, leaving the beach on a "reach" would probably work fine. On my beach, it's almost always on a beat which makes it a real chore to get the rudder down and more importantly, the center board. I find it much easier "motor" out just a bit. drop the center board and rudder and be on my way. Of course, with another deck hand, I don't have any of these problems.

Actually, I wish there was a "row" option and then I wouldn't have to have an engine at all. I do carry a paddle, but it's not much use because of the beam of the boat.

 

[esterhazyinoz]

Honda outboards must follow the burgernomic laws. A new 2hp cost the same $1200 Oz dollars here. I've recently passed on a few almost new short shaft models that I could have had for under $500. I must do some critical measurements as what I really want the motor for is not for when I'm under sail but when I have removed the mast to get under that low bridge and explore the part of the Swan River that is too narrow to sail in anyway. The only electric motor that I have been impressed by is that European made Torqeedo. Amazing technology, self contained unit, folds down into a bag you carry over your shoulder. Expensive though, I think they cost US$1600 (but they will drive a couple of tons of boat for a good number of hours).
I know I'm lucky not to have to beat into the wind when I launch. That's a real challenge especially if you're in the shallows for a while.

 

[BlueRunner]

Honda outboards must follow the burgernomic laws. A new 2hp cost the same $1200 Oz dollars here. I've recently passed on a few almost new short shaft models that I could have had for under $500.

Re the price of outboards, TELL me about it. Last year I bought a new 9.9 Yamaha will all kinds of features including electric start for about $2300. So, it's hard for me to figure out the price of a 2hp engine.

As to the short shaft model you mentioned, my 2hp Honda is exact 2' from the top of the bracket that hangs on the boat engine mount to the bottom of the engine. From your picture, it looks like the same engine bracket that is on my 170.

It easily pushes my 170 at slight over 6 MPH.

 

[esterhazyinoz]

So, how far does the shaft/propeller actually extend into the water and did you install a safety line from the motor to the bracket? I expect that you are refering to the 'short shaft' version Honda?

 

[BlueRunner]

So, how far does the shaft/propeller actually extend into the water and did you install a safety line from the motor to the bracket? I expect that you are refering to the 'short shaft' version Honda?

I couldn't tell you if it's a short shaft version although it seems 'short'. I'll have to measure how far it extends into the water when in the down position next time I'm on the boat. However, the prop must be completely under the boat to drive it 6mph. Once again, the 2' measurement in my post above is from the 'top' of the motor mount to the absolute bottom of the motor (end of fin). However, the measurement won't mean too much unless I can find a 200'er to go to the front of the boat while I'm leaning over the back.

From the picture of your boat, the motor mount looks exactly the same as my 170. On the Honda website (link below), they do mention a 15" and a 20" model as measured from transom height. I'm going to take a guess and say I have the 20" model which is probably about right from the transom/motor mount to the center of the prop with the other 4" being below from the center of the prop to the end of the fin. At this moment, my engine is in the garage and I just went out and remeasured and the above figures are exactly right. So, therefore, it must be the standard length unit.

The real question is whether a 15" model will hang low enough to drive the boat. I'm guessing it would, but not as well and the 20" model.

And no, I don't have a line on the engine, but I probably should. About the only place to put one would be tied around the engine mount. I have the 2 handles screwed down as tight as I can get them and paddle locked together which should make it a little harder for a thief (unless he has a bolt cutter).

http://marine.honda.com/Products/modeldetail/BF2

 

[esterhazyinoz]

Thanks for that link. I downloaded the owners manual and it had a great illustration and measurements for minimum depth of the antiventalation plate (the flat plate just above the prop). Because I plan to use an ob in very flat water (a no wave/swell part of our river) I think I can get away with the short shaft model and save myself $700. But just to be sure, to be sure, I'll measure it again when I have the boat in the water this weekend.
Cheers!

 

[BlueRunner]

With the motor mount off to the side where the hull is not as deep, I would think you could very well get by with the 15" short shaft model.

Good luck and let us know if the short shaft model will do the job. Just remember if you do get an engine to NEVER run it without your hand on the boat's rudder OR the rudder "tied" off so that it is locked straight ahead. I made that mistake about a month ago and my rudder "slapped" into the prop, chewing a gouge about 5" long and about maybe a bit over 1/2" deep in the center of the "chew". It cost me $400 to get it fixed. Granted, I could have done the job a lot cheaper, but with my recent fiber glass work looking so crappy, I wanted it to look like new. And, I could have probably used the rudder like it was, but every time I would see the "bruise", it would have pissed me off.

 

[esterhazyinoz]

That's a great piece of advice that I would have never thought of, Thanks!

 

[BlueRunner]

I got some maybe bad news for you. I had to do some rigging on my boat today and while taking care of that chore, I measured from the top of my motor mount straight down and came up with 13" max. That would guarantee the antiventalation plate you mentioned would be out of water. I suspect the prop on the short shaft would also be out of water (at least the top half of the prop.) I made these measurement from my row boat so IF I had been in my 170 and back by the motor mount, perhaps the prop would have been underwater.

So you may be ok with a short shaft if you and your crew ride in the back while operating the outboard motor. Still, it is starting to look like a marginal operation with a short shaft motor. However, remember all of the above in on my 170.

 

[esterhazyinoz]

Honda says in the manual that the antiventilation plate should be 2" below the surface of the water so 13" top of motor to bottom of boat(surface of water) Plus 2'' below that puts the bottom of the plate and the prop below that in enough water (hopefully). To be sure, sitting toward the back of the boat to do the trick.
Thanks again for your advice on this matter.
Cheers!

 

[heliBartek]

On my H170 I'm using a Yamaha F2.5D. Its a small 2.5 HP motor, light and excellent in this type of application. The whole thing weights 37 lbs. wet. It has neutral and forward gear.

At full throttle it will push my boat to about 6 kts. on calm water - it has been perfect so far. It fired up on the second pull after 6 months of sitting in my garage. This motor is about 900$ in Canada - brand new.

Just another option out there.

Cheers

 

[esterhazyinoz]

Thanks for that info. The reason I am drawn towards the Honda is mainly because it is air cooled. The last time I owned an OB for my 21' daysailer I always had problems with it sucking up stuff and then it would overheat and seize. Also the Honda is very light (28lbs).
There seem to be a lot of 2nd hand ones in the local market. The dealers say people who originally bought them for their 'tinnies' trade up to a higher Hp model after a while. Considering the current/water conditions here I think that a 2Hp will be fine for my H15. Also if I go higher in HP I will have to get another License from the government.

 

[BlueRunner]

The reason I am drawn towards the Honda is mainly because it is air cooled.

Thanks for the information. I didn't know my Honda was air cooled. It's 2 years old, but to make sure, I looked at the manual and sure enough, it said "air cooled". COOL!

Re water cooled, I've never had a problem like you described. However, I have had the little pee stream indicator plug up many times. I carry a paper clip to poke in the hole and that always makes my "pee" indicator work again. As you probably know, most of the water used in cooling comes out a different hole.

From my experience, the main thing to watch with a water cooled engine is the rubber impeller that pumps the water. When they let go, you're out of business (engine wise) until the part is replaced.

I just checked Yamaha outboards and the 2.5hp that "heliBartek" mentioned according to the Yamaha website, is a 15" model. If that is true, you should have not problem using a 15" model on your 15.

 

[esterhazyinoz]

Thanks for the advice guys! One final measurement while the boat is actually in the water on Sunday and then I hit our equivalent of Craigs List,
Cheers

PS. Thought I should caption the photo I added yesterday. It was taken at the launch ramp I have used so far. It's the Point Walter Public Ramp on the Swan River in Perth, Western Australia. The really good thing about this location is that with the 2 wind directions that blow 95% of the time (either SW or NE) you can reach away and back to the little beach next to the ramp. Makes for a very civilised exercise.