Fake? Wood floor
- Thread starter Jimmy
- Start date
I liberally apply and rub mine down with teak oil one or twice a year. Than seems to work for me. I believe the theory is that if it is impregnated with oil that it will resist absorbing water.
The floor on my H260 is actual wood. I stained and then Spar Urethaned it. You know who she is. Spar is Poly’s sister. Or brother. I’m not sure how they’re related.
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The 26 floor was actual teak and holly veneer. I do not know if that has been replaced or not. However, Hunter got away from that going to a laminate to look like teak and holly sole. If orginal I would clean it but do not suggest sanding. Maybe a teak cleaner and then you could use ceatol or a varnish. The first thing after cleaning is to make sure the floor is dry and then cut the ceatol or varnish in half with a thinning solution so it will seep into the fine pores and then lightly sanding doing that twice and then apply full coatings. It will depend on how much money and time you want to put into it but a lot cheaper than putting in a new floor.
Most "teak oil" has at least some amount of tung nut oil in it. That stuff seeps into the wood & then polymerizes inside the wood. It both hardens up the surface & waterproofs from within. It's good stuff. Better quality "teak oils" have higher percentages of tung nut oil. Linseed oil is second best to tung nut oil, but also works. Straight tung nut oil is expensive & hard to find.
Depends on what kind of dirt you're cleaning. It's plastic laminate, same as a counter top, so for regular cleaning just use a mild non-abrasive cleaner.
we just cleaned ours with a scrub brush and a spray bottle with some water and dawn soap. We were careful to spray a small area, scrub, wipe up quickly, and do that a few times. After that we could actually see the light wood stripes again!
We then applied teak oil to it, but we just got some water in the companionway during some heavy storms, that I think traveled down the solar panel wire that we sneak out the top corner under the sliding hatch because we have never gotten water in the boat before.
Unfortunately this did damage the teak pretty good right in front of the steps. Each strip is now cupped up at the end and delaminated.... not sure what to do. perhaps somehow steam the wood flat again and then that penetrant epoxy or something to stick it back down. It's only a few inches in front of the step but looks like it will continue to fall apart quickly without some immediate repair.
If anyone has thoughts on this I would love to know.
We then applied teak oil to it, but we just got some water in the companionway during some heavy storms, that I think traveled down the solar panel wire that we sneak out the top corner under the sliding hatch because we have never gotten water in the boat before.
Unfortunately this did damage the teak pretty good right in front of the steps. Each strip is now cupped up at the end and delaminated.... not sure what to do. perhaps somehow steam the wood flat again and then that penetrant epoxy or something to stick it back down. It's only a few inches in front of the step but looks like it will continue to fall apart quickly without some immediate repair.
If anyone has thoughts on this I would love to know.
@Crazy Dave Condon Would you still recommend sealing the floor if it is a little bouncy like it has delaminated in the middle? I just had good success with helsman spar urethane on my stern seats, and it is nice and really thin liquid to seep in, but I would not want any spider cracking in the coat when the floor bends. I was also considering using penetrating epoxy first, or just using teak oil.
Thanks
Thanks
hunter 26 '94
original laminated teak and holly wood floor. Photo attached, but it looks decent from there after one coat of teak oil. The problem is the middle is very bouncy, and toward the bottom by the step sometimes the edge of the teak has water over it from rain. This caused the edge to delaminate, and I got a syringe full of wood glue and worked it around under the delaminated area and then put wax paper and weights on it. Worked great. So now it looks good, but I don't want it to take on water and delaminate again.
Is coating this whole thing with penetrating epoxy worth it?
Will coating it with spar urethane be problematic because it flexes. i might try this on some scrap plywood and bend it to see if the urethane pops and cracks.
Or is it best to just teak oil it like crazy until its a lot more waterproof? doesn't seem like teak oil would be enough for if it is submerged under water for a few days.
a companionway cover is in the works. Thanks
original laminated teak and holly wood floor. Photo attached, but it looks decent from there after one coat of teak oil. The problem is the middle is very bouncy, and toward the bottom by the step sometimes the edge of the teak has water over it from rain. This caused the edge to delaminate, and I got a syringe full of wood glue and worked it around under the delaminated area and then put wax paper and weights on it. Worked great. So now it looks good, but I don't want it to take on water and delaminate again.
Is coating this whole thing with penetrating epoxy worth it?
Will coating it with spar urethane be problematic because it flexes. i might try this on some scrap plywood and bend it to see if the urethane pops and cracks.
Or is it best to just teak oil it like crazy until its a lot more waterproof? doesn't seem like teak oil would be enough for if it is submerged under water for a few days.
a companionway cover is in the works. Thanks