Engine Starter Button

Benny17441 · Jun 24, 2019

Common malady which causes a voltage drop to the starter solenoid. It can be due to faulty connectors or aged wiring with increasing resistance in the harness connecting the engine to the cockpit control panel. The most common solutions are to replace connectors, run new parallel wiring or /and installing an auxiliary solenoid. You can find extensive information of how to do it in the archives. Some have even relocated the push button to near the engine compartment. Reminds me of a 6V Volkswagen I used to have for which I installed a push button in the floor board of the back seat and whenever the key would not work I would reach behind me and push the auxiliary button.

Whatfiero1 · Jun 25, 2019

Yes a push button at or near the engine is nice for service and to have as a back up. It's just a momentary push botton available at any hardware store or auto parts store

Hunter Ad Bot · Jun 25, 2019

And now a word from the sponsor...

Hunter props, shafts, struts, and cutless bearings

See the product

Mikem · Jun 25, 2019

Your boat may have a separate starter relay as well. I replaced my start button and that fixed it for a while. Cleaned and tightened all connections and that fixed it for a while. My starter and solenoid were one item so I replaced that and that fixed it for a while. Then I found the starter relay. I changed that and that fixed it!!!

ToddS · Jun 25, 2019

Nobody else thinks it's odd that his problem only happens away from the dock (sounds like more then just once or twice), but never-ever happens at the dock? I can't figure that part out... unless it's just coincidence (not sure how big his sample size is). Usually problems that only happen after going out for a sail are FUEL related, but ignition/solenoid are certainly electrical... just seems strange if the pattern he has noticed is actually real.

Mikem · Jun 25, 2019

For what its worth, all my fixes worked well at the dock too. It only seemed to malfunction at my destination prior to departure. A bit unnerving. In a previous boat I had an Atomic 4. In four years it only failed to start three times...each one at a bridge that opened on my request. Yikes.

kloudie1 · Jun 25, 2019

Not unusual for a bad connection to get worse after a "heat soak" .. Cold at dock, all good.... run a while and heat things up then shut down for a sail.. the wiring and connections are then heat soaking.. ya go to start it and … no joy. I bypassed all the nasty plug-in connectors on mine with a continuous 10 gauge wire for minimal voltage drop.. has worked flawlessly for a few years now.

sailcapt340 · Jun 25, 2019

I had the same situation on my 2000 340. I replaced the starter button as well. It did need to be replaced. I found this out with a simple continuity test after it was out on my bench.
But, the wire connections were slightly corroded at the switch and more so at the starter.
Some light cleaning with some steel wool, polished them back up and I sprayed them with some CRC dielectric Spray to try to prevent it from happening again.
Remember also, you have a inline fuse holder somewhere in the engine compartment. Mine was a few inches away from the starter. That was corroding also.
It was wrapped with rubber tape from the factory but they still get moisture, especially after this many years.
Clean all these areas and you probably will solve the situation.
If not, new wires, as suggested by Benny, should do it.
Check the battery post connections too. It just takes a little corrosion to cause a drop in power.
Also, you didn't mention how old your battery(s) are. Are there enough amps in the bank?
All possibilities.

njlarry · Jun 25, 2019

I have a similar problem and post here too, a few pages back. I had the same problem on a gas power boat before. I believe the most likely issue is the starter relay. At the dock his battery is fully charged. Later the voltage drops just enough that the marginal relay will not energize. Back then a pro told me to replace the relay. I did and never had the issue again.
Now if I could just find the right Kabota part number for my current Universal diesel .

Benny17441 · Jun 25, 2019

It is no coincidence that the malady has not surfaced at the dock. It is typical for the connectors and wiring to work properly when cold but then after they warm up the problems start.

RoyS · Jun 26, 2019

While you are at it and since you now have a spare start button consider using it as a service start button in the engine compartment. On mine I have a female stakon on a short hot wire next to the starter solenoid. My spare start button has one male and female stakon on the two short leads. When servicing the engine I can plug the spare start button into the hot wire and the other onto the starter solenoid to crank the engine. I do not recommend permanently installing a service start button at the engine because you may accidentally depress it while working on the engine.

Deparlocean · Jun 26, 2019

MARK340 said:
Help. I have a 1999 Hunter 340. When Im in the slip the engine starts every time, no problem. However, after an afternoon sail and I attempt to start the engine to return to the marina, the engine does not start. It takes several attempts of depressing the starter button before the engine will turn over. I have already replaced the starter button but the problem persists. The engine runs great once it's running.

Any feedback on this is greatly appreciated

Do your boat have two seperate batteries, one for engine one for "house"? Is your boat plugged for charging while at dock? If so the problem could be that your battery is fully charged at the dock but as you leave the battery starts to drain and does not have enough energy to crank the engine after a while. If so its life could be over loosing cranking amps too soon. Have your battery checked, and also have a second one installed "for engine only".
My boats (before and now) are wired that way, and I never had starting problems.