Engine service
- Thread starter Lisa
- Start date
I figured it was an air lock in the system all along, and that was definitely the problem. I removed both hot water heater hoses, which were dry. I put coolant in one of the ports at the thermostat until it came out the other. I loosened the hose on the bottom of the water pump and drained a little coolant out there. Then I manually filled the water heater loop and reconnected the hoses and it seems to have worked. She runs cool and both water heater hoses get warm and the coolant drained from the HX is warm. The water pump will not push the air through as I had thought/hoped it would. Knowing what I know now I would just get right to it and remove the water heater hoses and fill the thermostat and heater loop manually right away, probably wasn't necessary to loosen lower hose.
There is no mention of any of this in the manual, the manual makes it seem pretty simple and straightforward. Fill with coolant and open the petcock on the thermostat to let the air out. That didnt work at all. Gotta love people that write manuals and have no real world experience. Its not difficult, but wasted lots of time trying to vent the air out per the manual.
I did get to find out that my high temp alarm works ;-)
Hoping when it comes time in the spring to change all fuel filters that that bleeding process goes smoother.
Mike
This was my first attempt on a boat. Done this many times in a car/truck/tractor. Rebuilt engines and repowered trucks when I was younger, now I have newer trucks that I can't work on. I have a Kubota tractor that I have always done the maintenance on. I would say I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but now the upcoming electrical upgrade scares me ;-) Like I said, it wasn't a difficult task, the problem was mis-information in the manual. I would have been better off not reading the manual. After three attempts doing per the manual, I put it aside and thought the problem through, it was fixed my first attempt.
Mike
I'm glad you worked it out. I vaguely recall doing something similar on my C36 with Universal M25.
I was puzzled when I discovered my Tartan 3800 has a remote coolant tank with a pressure cap in addition to the default tank that is the water jacket exhaust manifold. The water heater is higher than the engine, in the port cockpit locker. near by, higher up, is a metal remote coolant tank, of about a gallon capacity, with a pressure cap and coolant overflow tank. There was nothing about this in the Westerbeke manuals or the Tartan owner's manual.
I called Hansen Marine Engineering in Marblehead, the regional Westerbeke distributor, and spoke with Bob Hansen. He told me that the remote tank was installed because it's nearly impossible to properly fill and bleed the system without it, the water heater being higher. He said all of the coolant service is done at the remote tank. The pressure caps are different pressure, with the one on the manifold being higher, typically 14 psi, and the remote tank at 7 psi (but check the caps, he advised, the pressure is marked on them).
Now I get it, having read of your troubles with this.
I was puzzled when I discovered my Tartan 3800 has a remote coolant tank with a pressure cap in addition to the default tank that is the water jacket exhaust manifold. The water heater is higher than the engine, in the port cockpit locker. near by, higher up, is a metal remote coolant tank, of about a gallon capacity, with a pressure cap and coolant overflow tank. There was nothing about this in the Westerbeke manuals or the Tartan owner's manual.
I called Hansen Marine Engineering in Marblehead, the regional Westerbeke distributor, and spoke with Bob Hansen. He told me that the remote tank was installed because it's nearly impossible to properly fill and bleed the system without it, the water heater being higher. He said all of the coolant service is done at the remote tank. The pressure caps are different pressure, with the one on the manifold being higher, typically 14 psi, and the remote tank at 7 psi (but check the caps, he advised, the pressure is marked on them).
Now I get it, having read of your troubles with this.
Glad it all worked out. I think part of the problem with the manual is that it's for a generic installation of the 25XPB. Each builder has their own particular water flow design, and depending on where it goes the venting changes.