Engine service

[Lisa]

getting ready to order my parts to service the engine. Universal 25xpb. There is a pretty complete spare parts kit onboard, Its an almost complete Universal Parts kit A. Since if I use them I wont have no spares.

Oil filter, Racor filter, small fuel filter and large fuel filter. want to replace the zinc on the HX and open it up and inspect, so I guess I need a gasket and zinc. The foam cover around the air filter denigrated yesterday any K&N part numbers for a quick and easy replacement? Also going to drain, flush and refill the engine coolant system, any idea how much coolant is needed? Also going to do the impeller, but figured Ill do that in the spring before putting back into service so the new impeller isn't sitting in a compressed state over winter.

Any recommended places to buy this stuff online?

Anything I'm missing?

Thanks, Mike

 

[Stu Jackson]

The foam cover around the air filter denigrated yesterday any K&N part numbers for a quick and easy replacement?

Disintegrated???

Try: That filter can be replaced at Napa auto with a Briggs & Stratton filter piece. Napa 7-02278 Pre-filter, replaces B&S 270782, 271794 pre-filter for 7-02210

 

[Lisa]

Disintegrated???

Yeah the foam was all over the engine compartment. I seen Catalina direct offers the foam replacement, was just wondering if anyone had any fitment for a K&N, Thanks

 

[jviss]

My Universal has a simple wire mesh filter, no foam or paper. It isn't really necessary, as a boat is a pretty clean place to run an engine. I think the screen/mesh is just to stop it from ingesting big stuff, like nuts and washers.

I'm pretty sure a 25xp is a Kubota D950. Agriculture supply places will have engine parts. The marine-specific stuff varies, I would just start searching the web.

The heat exchanger gaskets I've encountered are rubber, and reusable.

 

[SawyerCurt]

Jesse put together a very comprehensive maintenance schedule, along with part numbers here. I usually buy from Defender, or just do a google search for the part number.

 

[Stu Jackson]

was just wondering if anyone had any fitment for a K&N

Breather Hose 101 (w/ K&N Filter Pictures from Rick Allen)

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8875.msg63915.html#msg63915

and Noah's: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8858.msg64297.html#msg64297

 

[Lisa]

Tomorrow I want to drain, flush and refill the engine coolant. I know on a auto there is a drain on the bottom of the radiator, is there a convenient drain point on the 25xpb?

Also a couple of blow boaters and I were having a discussion about when to change the engine oil. Some do it when they winterize and some do it in the spring before re-launching. Does one have more merit than the other?

That also got me thinking about the fuel filters, after sitting all winter, it may be better to do initial spring start up on the old filters then put new ones on. Any general consensus on that?

Thanks, Mike

 

[SG]

I've always heard it is better to change the oil and filters before you let the engine sit over an extended period or Winter. The sulfuric acid in dirty oil is best removed so it does not corrode valves and other vulnerable engine parts. If you run the engine regularly, this is less of an issue.

Anyway, that's the theory.

 

[Ron20324]

+1 to SG .

 

[jviss]

I don't know about the 25xpb, which I believe is a Kubota D950 base, but my M25, based on the Kubota D850, there is a coolant block drain petcock on the right side, forward, on the block. It has a hose nipple on it, so you can drain into a container, and also pump coolant in when refilling.

 

[marchem]

Mike, page 14 of the engine manual (attached) shows the locations of a drain plug on the block and one at the heat exchanger, as well as a brief description of the process. I also need to do that soon, for the first time. I'm also going to install a valve on the thermostat housing, to make it easier to bleed the cooling system. For some reason the hole size on my engine is only 1/8" (most of the pictures and descriptions I've seen are 1/4"), so it will be a tiny valve, but hopefully will still work.

This is also a good time to check and possibly replace the HX zinc if it's looking worn, since you'll be right there. I buy mine on Amazon, CME0.

 

[Stu Jackson]

I don't know about the 25xpb, which I believe is a Kubota D950 base, but my M25, based on the Kubota D850

The M25xpb is a D100SE (or D1005E hard to read), the M25xp is the 950 and M25 is the 850.

from reply #7: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...M40-engine-information&highlight=kubota+block

 

[Lisa]

Thanks forgot I had a manual onboard

How’s the HX zinc look?

 

[marchem]

Thanks forgot I had a manual onboard

How’s the HX zinc look?

That looks in pretty good shape. When I first looked at mine there was nothing there...

 

[Lisa]

Everything was going well until...

I drained the old coolant, refilled with fresh water, ran the motor, drained, refilled with fresh water and ran again. My high temp warning went off.

I open the petcock on the heat exchanger and the water is still cool.

I opened the peacock at the thermostat and nothing comes out, even while it was running.

Raw water is open an water comes out exhaust.

Any suggestions?

 

[Lisa]

What a nightmare. This is one of those projects I should have never done. I’m guessing there is an air lock somewhere.

When from a fully functional engine to one that overheats in a couple of minutes.

Any hints on where to vent the system to get it working? I have the vent open at the thermostat and nothing comes out, vent open at water heater and nothing comes out.

Now it’s getting frustrating.

 

[jviss]

There should be a petcock in the thermostat housing, and a bypass, no?

In any event, if you can pump coolant or water in through the block drain, try that. Worked for me.

 

[Stu Jackson]

vent open at water heater and nothing comes out.

Don't do that. The chance of particulates getting trapped in the small opening can make the vent inoperable.

Try this:

Engine Overheating 101 - How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6) http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462

Slightly different engine, same concept.

Good luck.

 

[Lisa]

I disconnected the hot water heater hoses and looped back in. So I eliminated the hot water heater altogether. Still can’t get coolant to flow out the petcock at the thermostat. The HX is cool. Something so simple turned into an all day project. One thing is for sure I’ll never do this again.

 

[Lisa]

Well the only bright side of this project was when I disconnected the water heater hoses that they had neatly routed and zip tied across the top of the engine, I noticed that they were all but worn through. So luckily I found this problem now rather than on a trip. Also worn through the crankcase breather hose and the wire in the heater hose just started to wear into the fuel line. Had to get new hoses and do a reroute.

I think I got her working after a long day. Got warm hoses to and from water heater, warm coolant out of the HX and temp is running at 160.

Time for dinner