Mine failed too, so I removed the meter to make the repair. The first thing I noticed is they have applied a light brown 'gunge' round the connector for the ribbon cable to the pcb and where the ribbon cable goes in to the bottom dial - it is quite firm. This did not show in your photographs. And the silicon applied under face plate looks smooth, clear and in good order. Any idea how to proceed?
Engine Hour (LCD) Meter Repair
- Thread starter NorthStar
- Start date
Abhigs,
If you read through the posts, I believe NorthStar says the procedure he documented, and you are apparently following, did not work.
Oops - didn't see that! Well at least I know how to fit the replacement. How can a manufacturer in day and age produce something so utterly shite?
Engine Hours LCD problem on Nanni Control Panel
Hi All,
I came across this thread when researching problems with the LCD Engine Hour meter in the VDO Tacho that comes with the Nanni engine (see attached photo) we have in Pegasus II. Like others here, I have the problem of the hour meter apparently accumulating engine hours OK, but only displaying them intermittently, lately almost never.
I followed NorthStar's original guide and like him, tried cleaning up the ribbon cable contacts and using silicone paste to seal the connection. No significant change in symptoms. Since doing that, I read later in the thread that various interventions have been tried to fix this problem without success.
Also, like others in this thread, I am surprised that a major Instrument company like VDO produce a product that seems to have a long-standing, persistent flaw. A friend of mine with a Seawind 1160 with twin Yanmar motors has VDO tachos, both of which have the intermittent engine hours display problem.
I then bit the bullet and peeled back the tacho fascia to inspect the cavity next to the Engine Hours LCD. Unlike NorthStar, I could find no significant debris or anything obviously shorting the PCB tracks in there. However, on turning over the gauge and looking at the PCB, I did notice a lot of rubbish around the pins that the ribbon cable originated from (see photo). I figured this was bound to be shorting pins that probably shouldn't be shorted and might be the cause of my problem?
I've used a number of tools to clean these up (toothpick, soft-head toothbrush), making sure there is a clear strip of PCB visible between the pools of solder around the pins. It's fiddly work, needing either good magnification or excellent eyesight (which I no longer have); the gaps between the soldered pins are very fine.
I've not yet been back to the boat to test the outcome of my efforts so I'll report back after I've done this.
Hi All,
I came across this thread when researching problems with the LCD Engine Hour meter in the VDO Tacho that comes with the Nanni engine (see attached photo) we have in Pegasus II. Like others here, I have the problem of the hour meter apparently accumulating engine hours OK, but only displaying them intermittently, lately almost never.
I followed NorthStar's original guide and like him, tried cleaning up the ribbon cable contacts and using silicone paste to seal the connection. No significant change in symptoms. Since doing that, I read later in the thread that various interventions have been tried to fix this problem without success.
Also, like others in this thread, I am surprised that a major Instrument company like VDO produce a product that seems to have a long-standing, persistent flaw. A friend of mine with a Seawind 1160 with twin Yanmar motors has VDO tachos, both of which have the intermittent engine hours display problem.
I then bit the bullet and peeled back the tacho fascia to inspect the cavity next to the Engine Hours LCD. Unlike NorthStar, I could find no significant debris or anything obviously shorting the PCB tracks in there. However, on turning over the gauge and looking at the PCB, I did notice a lot of rubbish around the pins that the ribbon cable originated from (see photo). I figured this was bound to be shorting pins that probably shouldn't be shorted and might be the cause of my problem?
I've used a number of tools to clean these up (toothpick, soft-head toothbrush), making sure there is a clear strip of PCB visible between the pools of solder around the pins. It's fiddly work, needing either good magnification or excellent eyesight (which I no longer have); the gaps between the soldered pins are very fine.
I've not yet been back to the boat to test the outcome of my efforts so I'll report back after I've done this.
Attachments
That is probably rosin or resin or acid that was in the center of the solder/ Shouldn't be a problem, but, hey, SOMEthing is causing the problem. My Yanmar B panel has the same no-show problem, but it seems having the running lights on to illuminate the panel often make the hours visible.
GREAT work! I have the same issue with a (new to us) 2007 Beneteau with a Yanmar and the Mod C version of the instrument panel.
HELP! though. After getting the tach and hour meter gauge out of the instrument panel, I do not know how to get the black dial/instrument out of the white plastic tubular casing it is in so that I can delicately slice/pry off the face plate as described to get to the problem area. I have removed the screws on the back of the white plastic case but cannot seem to get the instrument out of the case. Does the clear bezel screw off? do I have to cut the rubber seal around it? Is there some other trick? Basically, how do I get at it?
Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
HELP! though. After getting the tach and hour meter gauge out of the instrument panel, I do not know how to get the black dial/instrument out of the white plastic tubular casing it is in so that I can delicately slice/pry off the face plate as described to get to the problem area. I have removed the screws on the back of the white plastic case but cannot seem to get the instrument out of the case. Does the clear bezel screw off? do I have to cut the rubber seal around it? Is there some other trick? Basically, how do I get at it?
Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
Attachments
Capt.,
Don't waste your time & efforts with the malfunctioning VDO tach. Mine broke also; the "fix" did not work. Easiest method is to buy a small electro/mechanical hour meter, connect it to a battery at home and run up the existing actual hours of engine operation on the new meter, and install in a convenient place. The replacement VDO tachs are expensive, not easy to duplicate your existing engine hours because of the small pin terminals, and just as likely to fail as the previous electronic tach. This problem seems to be widespread as I have read of many others with the same.
Don't waste your time & efforts with the malfunctioning VDO tach. Mine broke also; the "fix" did not work. Easiest method is to buy a small electro/mechanical hour meter, connect it to a battery at home and run up the existing actual hours of engine operation on the new meter, and install in a convenient place. The replacement VDO tachs are expensive, not easy to duplicate your existing engine hours because of the small pin terminals, and just as likely to fail as the previous electronic tach. This problem seems to be widespread as I have read of many others with the same.
Big Easy has the right solution, unfortunately. After three failures and multiple attempts to revive/repair, I have given up and installed a simple mechanical meter in my engine compartment. I resisted for a long time because I did not have a convenient spot to mount the new meter.
Copy all, and thanks. I really like the idea of installing a mechanical hour meter (and would appreciate any advice on the best way/leads to connect it to in order to drive it) and will be ordering one to install, but also thought I'd try this rehab this VDO during these winter months when I'm not actively sailing Second Star.
With that in mind guys, how did you remove the instrument from the white case it is in?
With that in mind guys, how did you remove the instrument from the white case it is in?
I'm on my third meter. Lots of people have trouble with these things, across all guages..
I simply log the hours at which each failed and install a new one. Then that meter runs untill it too fails. The latest is now around 2200 hrs and 16 or so years so it seems to be doing a LOT better than the others. It is a rectangular Hobbs, Quartz.
But if it goes I will simply repeat.
Just log it in such a manner that it is clear what happened. In addition to writing it in date and hour sequence in the actual log pages it is also noted on the cardboard divider in large writing so it is seen as soon as the log book is opened.
As far as mtce. notes are concerned I simply use the hours on the current meter.
For stuff that is done at 50 or 100 or so intervals the total hours really do not matter. Just that the work is done at the proper intervals.
I do however keep a proper total of all the meters for hours for oil testing purposes so the oil lab and I know how many true hours are on the engine and gear.
I simply log the hours at which each failed and install a new one. Then that meter runs untill it too fails. The latest is now around 2200 hrs and 16 or so years so it seems to be doing a LOT better than the others. It is a rectangular Hobbs, Quartz.
But if it goes I will simply repeat.
Just log it in such a manner that it is clear what happened. In addition to writing it in date and hour sequence in the actual log pages it is also noted on the cardboard divider in large writing so it is seen as soon as the log book is opened.
As far as mtce. notes are concerned I simply use the hours on the current meter.
For stuff that is done at 50 or 100 or so intervals the total hours really do not matter. Just that the work is done at the proper intervals.
I do however keep a proper total of all the meters for hours for oil testing purposes so the oil lab and I know how many true hours are on the engine and gear.
Keep us informed on your rebuild, please. My LCD is intermittent operation now on my VP. It seems to be correct when I see it on, since I log my engine hours, roughly.
Jim...
I havent read through this thread in its entirety but i have a similar issue with the compass/temp display in my '07 Toyota Tacoma. Its a widespread issue and documented in the forums. When the display goes dim or out, I remove it and disassemble down to the circuit board. I inspect all component solder joints under a glass. I take a pencil eraser and put it on each component and see if i can wiggle..Very carefully....I've always found a problem and resoldered. It's always worked and you have to know something about circuit board soldering. It's always been a row of board surface mount capacitors. Otherwise its a hundred dollar bill.....
I performed North Star's repair and my engine hours are now displaying. A friend suggested I coat the IC with clear acrylic nail polish. Its not conductive and just might create a seal that I'm hoping will protect the repair. I'm also going to install a back up hour meter as the history of these repairs is not good.
Some smart guys over at http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=71195&page=2 have devised a way of replacing the display panel. Its a bit of a fiddy and technical repair, but cheap. An advantage of the new display is that you can display graphics and fonts rather than just the LCD digital (or seven segment) numerals.
My non-expert analysis is that this is probably a cold solder joint issue, very hard to find. Sorry that's not very helpful, but may eliminate the dirt on the solder traces theory. I like Mark's troubleshooting method with the pencil eraser, may be worth a try for some. I repaired a headlight circuit board on a car once, cold solder joint. If attempting PCB repaires, YouTube is your friend.
Cheers
Cheers
Here is a better site for a solution, based on the canalworld site solution,
http://mtech.dk/thomsen/Husky/repairs/vdo.php
This repair has now been running for two years without any issues, according to the author.
http://mtech.dk/thomsen/Husky/repairs/vdo.php
This repair has now been running for two years without any issues, according to the author.
Pretty easy fix, once you get the part. Part is here, although I've seen it on EBay for less:
https://www.yachtboatparts.com/volv...screen-for-vp-873992-873688-873998-7745-p.asp
Video to guide you through the repair is here:
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...F4CE2F31AEA21D883CA0F4CE2F31AEA2&&FORM=VRDGAR
Pretty easy. Just know you'll have to pry the display face of the instrument off with a razor blade (just glue it back down!), and pry out the old LCD display which is glued down (it'll probably come out in pieces). Sounds radical; it isn't. Took me 30 mins, but I could probably do it in 10-15 min having done it once. Total engine hours showed up in new LCD, and were within 8 hours of my running estimate at the end of the season based on Previous Owner's information before the hours meter stopped working, and me manually adding hours up in the logbook.
https://www.yachtboatparts.com/volv...screen-for-vp-873992-873688-873998-7745-p.asp
Video to guide you through the repair is here:
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...F4CE2F31AEA21D883CA0F4CE2F31AEA2&&FORM=VRDGAR
Pretty easy. Just know you'll have to pry the display face of the instrument off with a razor blade (just glue it back down!), and pry out the old LCD display which is glued down (it'll probably come out in pieces). Sounds radical; it isn't. Took me 30 mins, but I could probably do it in 10-15 min having done it once. Total engine hours showed up in new LCD, and were within 8 hours of my running estimate at the end of the season based on Previous Owner's information before the hours meter stopped working, and me manually adding hours up in the logbook.
The link to the LCD screen I supplied DEFINITELY fits, and works like a charm. You may be taking a bit of a risk with this EBay link to a Chinese manufactured version, but here it is:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Displa...648413?hash=item1a5e9f4edd:g:3QMAAOSwn6dbbR2S