On my 1976 Catalina 27, the Atomic 4 needs a lot of work and time, so I've decided to go ahead and buy a Tohatsu 9.8 HP Extra Long Shaft motor so I can keep sailing. I looked at outboard brackets at West Marine today and don't know if I should get a stationary mount or an adjustable mount. How would I decide? Any thoughts, please?
Do I need an adjustable outboard bracket
- Thread starter Aladave
- Start date
I would also go adjustable. I like being able to pull the outboard leg and prop out of the water when sailing or when at the dock. On a fixed mount you could tilt the engine but in some installations it might not be enough especially with a long shaft. Motor mounts are rated by weight so make sure that the one you choose is rated for the weight of your outboard. We run an old 65lbs 2 stroke 9.8 Nissan and it lifts quite easily out of the water so I would not anticipate any difficulties for a somewhat heavier 4 stroke engine if that is the case.
Before you rush out and buy the adjustable bracket... keep in mind that the motor will be difficult to reach because there is a large lazzerette and pushpit to negotiate before leaning out to grab the handle. You will have a lot of trouble operating a tiller equipped motor when it is in the down position.
For those reasons I recommend you spend the extra bucks to acquire the tohatsu 9.8 with electric start and remote control. If you have the funds, and since you're going extra long shaft... you should consider a fixed mount with power lift./ tilt/ trim device.... with that setup, a power tilt on a fixed bracket, you'll never have to lean over the pushpit rail to operate your awesome tohatsu..... it'll have the convenience of an inboard and the maintenance advantage of an outboard.
On my boat, I don't have a tiller... the motor is tightened to a fixed position and I use the rudder for all steering . With remote control you can back and fill with the throttle and boat's tiller to turn the boat 360 deg in its own length. You'll want to mount the motor in the center, behind the rudder.. there should be plenty of clearance because you're using an external bracket.. that will give you excellent prop action on the rudder... a big advantage when backing up.
If you don't go power tilt... definitely get the adjustable bracket.. so you can raise the motor up without having to tilt it to clear water... the main thing is to get the electric start/remote package and forego the tiller....
For those reasons I recommend you spend the extra bucks to acquire the tohatsu 9.8 with electric start and remote control. If you have the funds, and since you're going extra long shaft... you should consider a fixed mount with power lift./ tilt/ trim device.... with that setup, a power tilt on a fixed bracket, you'll never have to lean over the pushpit rail to operate your awesome tohatsu..... it'll have the convenience of an inboard and the maintenance advantage of an outboard.
On my boat, I don't have a tiller... the motor is tightened to a fixed position and I use the rudder for all steering . With remote control you can back and fill with the throttle and boat's tiller to turn the boat 360 deg in its own length. You'll want to mount the motor in the center, behind the rudder.. there should be plenty of clearance because you're using an external bracket.. that will give you excellent prop action on the rudder... a big advantage when backing up.
If you don't go power tilt... definitely get the adjustable bracket.. so you can raise the motor up without having to tilt it to clear water... the main thing is to get the electric start/remote package and forego the tiller....
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A electric start is sweet, also you can wire into main battery bank and get some charge, also shifting forward reverse is easily done using shift cable off the A Bomb, you can buy adjustable motor brackets via many sites and save $$$$ west marines crazy price, they go by HP so get one sized right, also when we did this up grade due to age of our A bomb we beefed up transom inside boat with marine grade starboard and fiberglass to spread load prior to mounting bracket, make sure to cut out shell shield before you glass in , FYI a older 5 hp pushed our Cat 27 close to hull speed on calm days, we use our mount as back up and hang our dink engine so its a multi task system, thou a long shaft is ideal for what your doing. Good luck.
Thanks for all the good advice. I did buy and install a Panther adjustable mount and it works well. It's pretty heavy, especially to tilt up at the end of the day, but I found a motor tilt device that really helps. The electric start is great! But, I now wish I would have got the electric tilt and the remote controls. Was just trying not to spend too much but it probably would have been worth it. By the way, question to Joe, how do you use the Atomic4 shift cable to shift your outboard. I'd like to rig that up. Thanks. One more question, should I leave the Atomic4 in the boat or remove it. What are the pros and cons?
I would fix the A4. Unless the block is shot it will cost less to repair than and outboard and bracket combo. Check in at Moyer marine.
Joe is dead on about the idea of getting the remotes. I had a 74 with factory outboard well. We put a 3 foot tiller extension on it to work the throttle and only used the rudder to steer. The 9.9 pushed the boat well and if you do go with the OB you could pull the motor and glass over the shaft log and have all that space. We kept our dink there. OB boats are faster.
Joe is dead on about the idea of getting the remotes. I had a 74 with factory outboard well. We put a 3 foot tiller extension on it to work the throttle and only used the rudder to steer. The 9.9 pushed the boat well and if you do go with the OB you could pull the motor and glass over the shaft log and have all that space. We kept our dink there. OB boats are faster.
I threw out the Atomic 4 since it was underwater when I got the boat. Glassed in the shaft opening and also threw out the shaft and strut. I bought the adjustable heavy duty swing bracket ti hold my long shaft 15 HP 2 stroke johnson. I can lift it and not touch the water while on tbe mooring. It will spin the drop when sailing unless I tilt the motor at the lowest setting and clears the stern. It stays parallel to the water. Only use a handle extension. For shifting I reach down. For starting, I added a longer cord that goes through a block un the upoer rail.